STP oil Treatment and SOHC timing chain rattle

[koda2000]

Did you mean to say doing this will **not** harm the engine?

also, I think many of us would love a guide for doing a pre oiler. I've asked some mechanics and they were like wtf is a pre oiler.

Yes, **will not** I fixed it.

As far as building your own pre-oiler, I have a list of the parts I need to acquire, but david4451 recently created his own pre-oiler and mine will be very similar. My parts cost will be around $200.

My parts list and approximate costs (note - not all links may still be good):

22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

 

[gdgiordano]

Yes, **will not** I fixed it.

As far as building your own pre-oiler, I have a list of the parts I need to acquire, but david4451 recently created his own pre-oiler and mine will be very similar. My parts cost will be around $200.

My parts list and approximate costs (note - not all links may still be good):

22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

Amazing, thank you.

 

[Flash]

Are the jackshaft chains easier? Mine doesn't have a rattle, just a grinding noise on startup regardless of temperature when then the engine hasn't been run. My oil is only 1000 miles old. Would there be a product that would thin it out to help?

It does it when it goes through the normal involuntary rev to 1800. Is there a way I can disable that rpm spike?

No, the jack shaft chain is actually more complicated because you have to remove the front cam sprocket and chain to get to it.

It was a while ago when I did my chains and I was new to the engine, if I remember correctly the jack shaft chain was rubbing over the pivot for the tensioner - or a mounting for the guide.
That's why STP is helping, because it's metal on metal.

The cam chain tensioner needs a thinner oil so that the pressure builds up quickly.

You can disable the rpm spike by depressing the throttle to the floor briefly, like setting an automatic choke.

 

[Flash]

Yes, **will not** I fixed it.

As far as building your own pre-oiler, I have a list of the parts I need to acquire, but david4451 recently created his own pre-oiler and mine will be very similar. My parts cost will be around $200.

My parts list and approximate costs (note - not all links may still be good):

22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

It doesn't need to be as complicated as that, you just need to tap the oil pressure (at the gauge sender is good) then run the line to a sealed can with an air gap. Put an electric check valve on the input line that releases pressure when you start the engine.
Now would be good time to fit a real oil pressure gauge. I don't know how accurate a gauge connected to the air gap reading the head pressure would be.

 

[GaryKipfer]

Has anyone changed over to a high volume oil pump and had better (or worse) chain noise?
It seems that if the oil flow was better, the front tensioner would build up pressure faster.