Transmission Failure Prevention Advice Needed.

[1996BLKBauer]

So I am about to wrap up just about every problem my Explorer had when I bought it, I have 2 things left, well 3 really, if you can consider the power antenna being broken a problem, the two real ones are the Pinion Seal... Still scared about that. And two the 4R70W transmission. Now in a couple weeks I will be doing a pan drop, and replace the filter, I will be going with the Motorcraft one for a replacement. But on RockAuto it says "Gasket Not Included", So I looked up the gasket, and will being going with the Fel-Pro Gasket... I want to make sure I will have Everything for this, because I want to have it all done in one day, without waiting for parts.

Filter:https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=383562&cc=1119664
Gasket:https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=128368&cc=1119664


I also would like to add an in line filter, There is one on RockAuto, I wanted to know if anybody is using it, and how happy they are with it, It is made my ATP... I would also like to know where everybody had hooked theirs up at?

InLine Filter: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=64527&cc=1119664

I greatly appreciate everybody's input on all this, I know transmissions are scary to most, I am sort of scared, but I know the filter needs to be changed out, because I doubt it ever has been done before.

 

[SoNic67]

From what I remember, my OE gasket was rubber with metallic inserts (around holes to prevent squishing the gasket) and is reusable.

I used an on-line filter but after a while the thought of pressure drop in my transmission circuit made me take it out. Burned clutches due to low pressure are not what I care for.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

From what I remember, my OE gasket was rubber with metallic inserts (around holes to prevent squishing the gasket) and is reusable.

I used an on-line filter but after a while the thought of pressure drop in my transmission circuit made me take it out. Burned clutches due to low pressure are not what I care for.

Did you ever have pressure drop with the inline filter installed? I know Ford says if you have the Transmission rebuilt under warranty, that you HAVE TO get an inline filter, other wise they will not honer it.

 

[Flash]

A bypass filter would fix that.

 

[SoNic67]

My filter was a bigger one than the usual in-line, attached in line with the auxiliary cooler lines and I was still worried about pressure drop. Kept it for 200 miles. Didn't measure the pressure drop thou...
My thoughts after I did the mod, where that if there is so much stuff made inside transmission that anything goes past the internal filter, then the problems are too big to be solved by extra filtration.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

My filter was a bigger one than the usual in-line, attached in line with the auxiliary cooler lines and I was still worried about pressure drop. Kept it for 200 miles. Didn't measure the pressure drop thou...
My thoughts after I did the mod, where that if there is so much stuff made inside transmission that anything goes past the internal filter, then the problems are too big to be solved by extra filtration.

I was wondering if the External Filter was going to really help anyway, I mean, in oil Filters they usually go by Micro count, or something a long those lines, so is the External Filter actually filtering out anything else, or is it a bunch of crap?

 

[SoNic67]

I don't really know. I got excited by the idea of extra filtration, I bought the adapter and filter, install it (adding some extra fluid). Driving it, I had second thoughts (that I exposed above) so I did remove it.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Sort of on the fence about the Extra inline filter now. I want to get it just in case, but I am not 100% sold on if it actually helps.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Did you ever have pressure drop with the inline filter installed? I know Ford says if you have the Transmission rebuilt under warranty, that you HAVE TO get an inline filter, other wise they will not honer it.

If the lines and cooler were not flushed properly, debris from the failed trans could cause failure in the new trans. The aux filter was to be placed in the return line after the cooler. Not needed in your case, but won't do any harm.

Why not add a drain plug to the pan? Available at Advance, Autozone, Summit etc. for less than 10 bucks. Clean the inside of the pan and magnet with brake clean. Pan could then be drained on a regular bases. You will need 6 to 8 qts of Mercon V.

If there is a drain plug in the converter, you can do a complete fluid change. Will need about 12 to 14 quarts of fluid for this. Use Mercon V. This is a must for this trans.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

If the lines and cooler were not flushed properly, debris from the failed trans could cause failure in the new trans. The aux filter was to be placed in the return line after the cooler. Not needed in your case, but won't do any harm.

Why not add a drain plug to the pan? Available at Advance, Autozone, Summit etc. for less than 10 bucks. Clean the inside of the pan and magnet with brake clean. Pan could then be drained on a regular bases. You will need 6 to 8 qts of Mercon V.

If there is a drain plug in the converter, you can do a complete fluid change. Will need about 12 to 14 quarts of fluid for this. Use Mercon V. This is a must for this trans.

I was thinking about actually adding a drain plug, but I will have to grab an extra pan from the Junk Yard, in case I mess it up. I'll look into more over the next few weeks. I am unsure if there is a drain plug on the Torque Converter, but that would be nice if there was. The whole concept of working on my transmission, even if I am just changing the fluid still scares me to death, because this is my Daily Driver, so if I mess up I am screwed, but I don't trust anybody to do the work either.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Planning ahead is the best approach, buts its not a difficult job. Lots of help here on this forum if you need it, just ask.

You can actually buy a new pan for about $30 or so from an on-line Ford parts dealer, filter is about $20, gasket is about 15 to 20 bucks, but I think the Ford gasket is reusable.
Buy a cheap but "big" plastic bucket/pan of some sort. Be prepared for a mercon bath. lol

Torque pan bolts to spec is a cross pattern, 110 to 130 inch lbs. NOT FT LB.

 

[koda2000]

Regarding adding a drain plug... B&M makes a add-a-drain plug and it's not expensive. O'Reilly used to stock them, but I'm sure you can get one through Summit if you can't find one locally. The first issue in installing it is where in the trans pan to put it so there's no interference with any internals. To figure this out, I'd suggest you check it out carefully once the pan is off. The second issue is drilling a fairly large hole in sheet metal is tricky, as the bit can jam in the hole and bend the metal, plus the hole tends not to be round. For this job I like to use a step drill, as it wont jam and makes a nice clean, round hole.

An old machinist once told me that if you use a regular drill bit and drill through a piece of sand paper it wouldn't jam or give you an oval hole. I watched him do it once, but I'm never tried it (I imagine it can't be to good for the drill bit)

 

[SoNic67]

The big hole in the sheet metal needs to be done with a knock-out punch or a hole-saw. Electricians have to use those when put holes in metallic boxes.

But... why? You need to drop the pan anyway (every time) to replace the filter and clean the internal magnet of metallic dust.

 

[koda2000]

The big hole in the sheet metal needs to be done with a knock-out punch or a hole-saw. Electricians have to use those when put holes in metallic boxes.

But... why? You need to drop the pan anyway (every time) to replace the filter and clean the internal magnet of metallic dust.

it's not that big of a hole (1/2") and a step drill is plenty big enough for the job. if you don't have one in your tool box, you'll find them extremely handy. As far as why, if you change your trans fluid (and yes, the filter too) on a regular basis it makes the job a lot less messy.

 

[Flash]

Use this kind of drill then tap the hole.

 

[Maniak]

Just a thought about the external filter from another person.

I run an external (Fl1a style filter on my automatic transmissions). I have it running on a 700r4 and a c6. I didn't know about them when we still had the a4ld in the X.

The filter is placed on the cooler line which is for lack of a better term on the output of the transmission. It then goes back into the pan after going through the heat exchanger in the radiator and any external coolers. From there it is picked up via the pump and run through the trans and then it goes back out again..

I don't know how good the filter is on the 2nd gen auto transmissions but I know many vehicles (including the 1st gen explorer) have a crap filter in the trans pan. On the 1st gen x's its just a screen. Of course, most of what ends up in the pan comes from within the transmission (clutch material etc) so it gets caught in the external filter before it goes back into the heat exchanger, external coolers and then the pan.

I change that external filter every time I do an oil change and then add 1 quart of trans fluid to make up the quart that was in the filter. I use Wix 51515 for the external filter which in my case happens to be the same filter that the engine uses on both vehicles that have the external filter. Since everything uses that filter I just buy it by the case and pay about $3 per filter.

Anyway.. My opinion is the external filter is good insurance to help keep the fluid clean AND as an added bonus you add 1 quart of fluid to the system and may even help cool the fluid down by having air flow over the filter too.

One tidbit about the drain plug... Those drain plugs use the same threads as sending units (1/8 npt). You could put in a transmission temperature sensor into the pan so you could also keep an eye on trans temps. You can still remove the sending unit to drain the fluid so you get the drain plug AND the sending unit in the same hole. The only thing to watch for is to make sure that the sending unit gets into the fluid. The B&M drain plug kit we got was pretty thick. The sending unit didn't protrude past the inner nut. I took a grinder to the nut for the drain plug to make it thinner so my sending unit (for the ISSPro trans temp gauge) would be in the fluid.

~Mark

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Regarding adding a drain plug... B&M makes a add-a-drain plug and it's not expensive. O'Reilly used to stock them, but I'm sure you can get one through Summit if you can't find one locally. The first issue in installing it is where in the trans pan to put it so there's no interference with any internals. To figure this out, I'd suggest you check it out carefully once the pan is off. The second issue is drilling a fairly large hole in sheet metal is tricky, as the bit can jam in the hole and bend the metal, plus the hole tends not to be round. For this job I like to use a step drill, as it wont jam and makes a nice clean, round hole.

An old machinist once told me that if you use a regular drill bit and drill through a piece of sand paper it wouldn't jam or give you an oval hole. I watched him do it once, but I'm never tried it (I imagine it can't be to good for the drill bit)

So is this what I am looking for then? B&M Drain Plug? I am also considering adding some A Pillar gauge pods, with a Trans Temp Gauge, any suggestions on one that can fit in a Gauge pod, and that has a back light in Blue?

The big hole in the sheet metal needs to be done with a knock-out punch or a hole-saw. Electricians have to use those when put holes in metallic boxes.

But... why? You need to drop the pan anyway (every time) to replace the filter and clean the internal magnet of metallic dust.

I want to say tha the 4R70W has a Aluminum pan, but I could be wrong...

Use this kind of drill then tap the hole.

Seems practical, I wonder how much that costs?

Just a thought about the external filter from another person.

I run an external (Fl1a style filter on my automatic transmissions). I have it running on a 700r4 and a c6. I didn't know about them when we still had the a4ld in the X.

The filter is placed on the cooler line which is for lack of a better term on the output of the transmission. It then goes back into the pan after going through the heat exchanger in the radiator and any external coolers. From there it is picked up via the pump and run through the trans and then it goes back out again..

I don't know how good the filter is on the 2nd gen auto transmissions but I know many vehicles (including the 1st gen explorer) have a crap filter in the trans pan. On the 1st gen x's its just a screen. Of course, most of what ends up in the pan comes from within the transmission (clutch material etc) so it gets caught in the external filter before it goes back into the heat exchanger, external coolers and then the pan.

I change that external filter every time I do an oil change and then add 1 quart of trans fluid to make up the quart that was in the filter. I use Wix 51515 for the external filter which in my case happens to be the same filter that the engine uses on both vehicles that have the external filter. Since everything uses that filter I just buy it by the case and pay about $3 per filter.

Anyway.. My opinion is the external filter is good insurance to help keep the fluid clean AND as an added bonus you add 1 quart of fluid to the system and may even help cool the fluid down by having air flow over the filter too.

One tidbit about the drain plug... Those drain plugs use the same threads as sending units (1/8 npt). You could put in a transmission temperature sensor into the pan so you could also keep an eye on trans temps. You can still remove the sending unit to drain the fluid so you get the drain plug AND the sending unit in the same hole. The only thing to watch for is to make sure that the sending unit gets into the fluid. The B&M drain plug kit we got was pretty thick. The sending unit didn't protrude past the inner nut. I took a grinder to the nut for the drain plug to make it thinner so my sending unit (for the ISSPro trans temp gauge) would be in the fluid.

~Mark

Now what sort of setup is this? seems More complex, and a lot better then my $14 one size fits all inline filter, I might actually be interested in some thing like that. Would be greatly appreciated if you had more info on this setup.

 

[koda2000]

B&M universal transmission drain plug. should be <$10. for gauges and a-pillar pod try LMC truck.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

B&M universal transmission drain plug. should be <$10. for gauges and a-pillar pod try LMC truck.

Yea, I got a lead on the Gauge pods, I just want to find some matching gauges, although that might not matter if I go with the SMD Volt Meter, but I am going with three, Volts at Battery, Trans Temp, and coolant temp, but coolant temp might change to something else, but it seems pretty important.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

1996BlkBauer

The B&M plug you linked above is the correct drain plug, if you want to add a trans temp gauge, buy 2 of them. Note that the temp sending unit must be 1/8" npt to fit in the B&M bushing. I think most Autometer electric trans temp gauges are 1/8" npt sender, but check before you buy.

Lots of debates as to where the drain should be, I put mine in the lowest point which is the bottom of the sump.

Check Summits site for gauges, Autometer Cobalt series are a nice gauge but expensive, or a digital gauge might interest you.

FYI, I have a 4R70W "steel" pan and filter in my Mustang as it has a small sump were as the stock AODE pan does not. Also have a complete set of Cobalt full sweep elec gauges in it, illumination is fantastic IMHO. And I have the trans temp sender in the side of the pan.

Also have an identical set-up in my 99X, 5r55e trans, using Autometer Z series. And a pan heater on the side of the pan for winter plug-in to preheat the fluid slightly.

With a drain plug in the pan, you can do a pan change on any schedule that you like, without mercon all over the place. Don't have to change the filter very often, but when you do, you will sure appreciate the drain plug.