Transmission trouble

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, a liquid Teflon sealant is best for connections like those on the trans, but not the flared connectors. Use a tiny o-ring on the line connectors, a size that fits snugly at the bottom of the female side. The temp sensor is a simple pipe thread(NPT), so the liquid sealant is best on that instead of the tape.

 

[JohnH55]

Well I've gotten about 20K on my remanufacture transmission, but the 2-3 shift flare has risen from hell to pain me once again. As well as a weird overdrive clunk/stutter every once in a while. The unit is out of warranty (Of course why would it break in warranty), so I'm left to fix it on my dime hopefully before it wreaks the whole unit. I'm fine rebuilding engines, and manual transmission but I'm not very comfortable working on the insides of an automatic I would probably mess it up, so I called a local shop and got a quote for a shift kit install. Its 736.74 Total, 495 for 3.3 hours of shop labor, 95.66 for the shift kit (TransGo Kit), and 44.94 for ATF, as well as 38.45 11% shop supplies, and 62.69 for tax.

My question. Do you guys think a shift kit will help my issue? I don't want to throw another transmission at this in the near future so I would like to resolve the 2-3 slip issue ASAP. Also, does the quote seem fair? Any recommendation are apricated.

 

[C420sailor]

Do yourself a favor. Get under there, drop the pan. Using a good inch pound torque wrench, check torque on all the valve body bolts. 2-3 flare is often indicative of a loose valve body and/or blown out gasket.

If they’re good, the separator plate gasket may have blown out. If they’re loose, you may just have some blow-by and the gasket *might* still be okay.

Hopefully he used the bonded gasket/plate

 

[JohnH55]

Do yourself a favor. Get under there, drop the pan. Using a good inch pound torque wrench, check torque on all the valve body bolts. 2-3 flare is often indicative of a loose valve body and/or blown out gasket.

If they’re good, the separator plate gasket may have blown out. If they’re loose, you may just have some blow-by and the gasket *might* still be okay.

Hopefully he used the bonded gasket/plate

Alright here is my plan, I'll drop the pan like you suggested this weekend and check torque on all the bolts (71-98 in-lb). This transmission is a unit from certified transmission, from what I gathered they are completely bone stock with no upgrades. If my VB is tight and doesn't have a clearly blown gasket I'll move onto a phase two.

Phase two: Get a sonnax zip kit, the bonded gasket plate, and try to find a OEM pressure relief valve 3L5Z-7M203-JA (They are discontinued, I'll try to inspect my VB to see if it has one already) Is the valve required when using the bonded plate? I think it is but would like conformation, a new EPC solenoid, and the upgraded bracket, reverse servo o-ring upgrade. I might try to mix in parts of the transgo kit, but it seems like sonnax recommends not to mix parts. Then I'll have these installed by a transmission shop, or if I'm feeling really brave I'll try it myself.

 

[C420sailor]

If the bolts are tight, I’d first check line pressures. Then drop the valve body and inspect everything. If that checks out, I’d also pull the accumulators and servos (I’m not smart on the 5R, I’m a 4R70 guy) and check all those seals. I’d check band adjustments too, why not.

I wouldn’t just start throwing parts at it. I had my 5R55E rebuilt to stock, plus the Ford upgrades (fixes), and it’s been going strong for 200k mi (340k total on the trans). Proof you don’t need zip kit this and transgo that.

You’re getting flares because something is broken (or wasn’t done right in the first place) not because the stock transmission is insufficient. Once you start throwing aftermarket parts, you’re just adding variables.

 

[JohnH55]

If the bolts are tight, I’d first check line pressures. Then drop the valve body and inspect everything. If that checks out, I’d also pull the accumulators and servos (I’m not smart on the 5R, I’m a 4R70 guy) and check all those seals. I’d check band adjustments too, why not.

I wouldn’t just start throwing parts at it. I had my 5R55E rebuilt to stock, plus the Ford upgrades (fixes), and it’s been going strong for 200k mi (340k total on the trans). Proof you don’t need zip kit this and transgo that.

You’re getting flares because something is broken (or wasn’t done right in the first place) not because the stock transmission is insufficient. Once you start throwing aftermarket parts, you’re just adding variables.

Okay I'll check the line pressures as well, probably before checking the VB tightness. Hopefully I can just hold a harbor freight pressure gauge outside my window, I think it's hose will be long enough it's around 6'. Unfortunately I'm 99% sure the transmission I have lacks even the Ford upgrades. I don't plan to mess around with the drive servos other than reverse. From what I saw on some other treads the reverse one is the only common issue with these.

 

[C420sailor]

If it’s a quality reman, it should have all the updates. Mine was rebuilt in 2012 with the updates.

 

[JohnH55]

If it’s a quality reman, it should have all the updates. Mine was rebuilt in 2012 with the updates.

Yeah, based on whats happened so far I'd say it leans on the side of not quality...

 

[C420sailor]

What was the warranty on it??

 

[JohnH55]

What was the warranty on it??

12K 12 Months, it's was their most basic option transmission. I could have gotten a better "upgraded" one but is was $1000 more so I didn't, I paid ~$1700 for mine and I installed.

 

[C420sailor]

Got it.

Not looking to dogpile ya, just providing some insight for the next guy with a shot tranny.

When it comes to rebuilds, the warranty offered will tell you everything about their quality.

Mine was 36k/36 month. I believe that’s what the powertrain warranty was on these things new.

Shop around and find a shop that really stands behind their work. I’ve found that shops who offer “levels” of rebuilds that aren’t tied to performance (like drag racing, high HP applications, etc) tend to be ****. A rebuild of a stock transmission for a stock vehicle should be to OEM specifications and nothing less. Some just change out the common wear items (clutches and bands) and call it good…