hummvee2134
New Member
- Joined
- November 6, 2017
- Messages
- 4
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 ranger 2.3 2wd auto
Hey everyone,
First post here. The info on this forum helped me through my first rebuild of an auto trans, 5r55e in my case. Things went well but i do have an issue. Here's the story:
Previous to the rebuild, i had some light flaring in 2-3 and 3-4. I had swapped in an ebay valve body a year ago which seemed to help (possibly it was just the fluid change that helped things) and i found a lot of clutch material in the pan and in the valve body. It got worse again (a year later, now) and i knew what it needed.
I did a full rebuild but i didn't touch the valve body. New piston seals, soft parts, etc...
I tested everything on the bench after putting everything together. All pistons moved with ease under 20psi
Now that it's all back together, i've found that it will drive great for the first 30 minutes. Every shift is crisp and clean. I've never felt it so perfect. After this 30 minutes, i get a very light engagement in 1st gear in D. Manual 1st works fine. Reverse also works fine. All other gears seem good once it's rolling.
The issue only seems to happen once the transmission is warmed up. My scan tool put it at 190 degrees. The issue was not reproducible at 160 degrees.
The weak engagement in 1st threw a p0731 - first gear ratio incorrect. My scan tool showed about 2000RPM of torque converter slip which is really just transmission slip.
I just dropped the valve body hoping to find something up in there but everything seems alright. i did use some syl glyde to hold the gasket on the separator plate previous to installation in the case. It seems like that syl glide may have built up a bit and i'm wondering if that's causing a leak. Also all bolts on the VB seemed tight upon removal.
I'm going to test the drum with air once again with it in the car to rule that out again.
I'm thinking maybe there's a valve body leak that's happening only when the truck is warm.
That aside, can anyone think of a reason that D would slip but manual 1 would work? They both use SS1 (forward clutch) and manual 1 uses SS4 (Coast) for engine braking so one wouldn't think there could be any difference.
Does anyone have a diagram showing fluid flow through the valve body on a 5r553? I'm thinking maybe if i can understand the routing of fluid a little better in D, i can narrow my troubleshooting to a more specific area of the unit.
Thanks in advance, everyone.
First post here. The info on this forum helped me through my first rebuild of an auto trans, 5r55e in my case. Things went well but i do have an issue. Here's the story:
Previous to the rebuild, i had some light flaring in 2-3 and 3-4. I had swapped in an ebay valve body a year ago which seemed to help (possibly it was just the fluid change that helped things) and i found a lot of clutch material in the pan and in the valve body. It got worse again (a year later, now) and i knew what it needed.
I did a full rebuild but i didn't touch the valve body. New piston seals, soft parts, etc...
I tested everything on the bench after putting everything together. All pistons moved with ease under 20psi
Now that it's all back together, i've found that it will drive great for the first 30 minutes. Every shift is crisp and clean. I've never felt it so perfect. After this 30 minutes, i get a very light engagement in 1st gear in D. Manual 1st works fine. Reverse also works fine. All other gears seem good once it's rolling.
The issue only seems to happen once the transmission is warmed up. My scan tool put it at 190 degrees. The issue was not reproducible at 160 degrees.
The weak engagement in 1st threw a p0731 - first gear ratio incorrect. My scan tool showed about 2000RPM of torque converter slip which is really just transmission slip.
I just dropped the valve body hoping to find something up in there but everything seems alright. i did use some syl glyde to hold the gasket on the separator plate previous to installation in the case. It seems like that syl glide may have built up a bit and i'm wondering if that's causing a leak. Also all bolts on the VB seemed tight upon removal.
I'm going to test the drum with air once again with it in the car to rule that out again.
I'm thinking maybe there's a valve body leak that's happening only when the truck is warm.
That aside, can anyone think of a reason that D would slip but manual 1 would work? They both use SS1 (forward clutch) and manual 1 uses SS4 (Coast) for engine braking so one wouldn't think there could be any difference.
Does anyone have a diagram showing fluid flow through the valve body on a 5r553? I'm thinking maybe if i can understand the routing of fluid a little better in D, i can narrow my troubleshooting to a more specific area of the unit.
Thanks in advance, everyone.