V8 experts...help me with power steering line

[Hartman]

I've been having issues with my power steering lately...it is really rough for a few days, almost like the pump is about to fail completely, then it'll work perfectly for a few days. The steering action is very inconsistent and rough, almost like there is air in the system. I took a look under the hood and the high pressure line in the picture below is loose around the fitting...the nut is secure but the hard line can be moved around. I am curious if that is normal? I'm thinking this fitting may be letting air into the system.

 

[corkey]

that should be tight,, or it will get air in and leak too ,,

 

[Hartman]

No leaks for now but I'm pretty sure it's letting air in. And my fluid looks a bit frothy too.

I will attempt to snug it down tomorrow but I'm not quite sure how that fitting is supposed to work.

 

[corkey]

so take it out and check the end of the line for the o ring, maybe it went bye bye into the system,

 

[IZwack]

That line can move (in other words, its fine) - if air can get in there, then certainly hydraulic fluid can leak out (bypass pressure is well over 1k PSI). My guess is that there is debris in the fluid system - to be more specific, I think the bypass valve in the pump's flow piston may have something stuck in the ball bearing causing the circuit to be in the "open"/bypass position. Try this, do the usual steering fluid swap but hit lock-to-lock a few times with the engine running during the fluid change procedure to cause the valve to bypass/open and flush and any debris thats stuck in it.

 

[98Rick07]

Ironically I was doing a little engine cleaning today and noticed that very fitting would rotate on my vehicle as well. No other symptoms as of yet, so maybe I can just snug it down and she'll be okay.

Edit:
I'll add that even after I was done cleaning my engine, it didn't look as good as yours.

 

[Hartman]

That line can move (in other words, its fine) - if air can get in there, then certainly hydraulic fluid can leak out (bypass pressure is well over 1k PSI). My guess is that there is debris in the fluid system - to be more specific, I think the bypass valve in the pump's flow piston may have something stuck in the ball bearing causing the circuit to be in the "open"/bypass position. Try this, do the usual steering fluid swap but hit lock-to-lock a few times with the engine running during the fluid change procedure to cause the valve to bypass/open and flush and any debris thats stuck in it.

I've always done the flush procedure with the engine running anyway...is that not the correct way to do it?

 

[IZwack]

I've always done the flush procedure with the engine running anyway...is that not the correct way to do it?

Yeah but stay in the "lock" position for a second or two, go the the other lock position, stay there for another second, and repeat - at lock is when the flow piston goes into bypass mode and you hear that distinct whirl as fluid recirculates internally of the pump (cavitation of fluid?). Don't stay in lock for too long though cauz the fluid keeps heats up gradually since it is being reused inside the pump over and over again.

 

[Hartman]

Should I get crazy and try to flush it out with ATF or anything? My old BMW used ATF instead of PS fluid

 

[IZwack]

Should I get crazy and try to flush it out with ATF or anything? My old BMW used ATF instead of PS fluid

There is quite a debate on what fluid to use in the steering system - so I think you should go with your gut feeling (cheapest ). See ATF is what most people use (I think?) but automatic transmissions typically work at a few hundred PSI max - so ATF is probably blended with that specification in mind. On the other hand, the steering system will easily go over 1,000 PSI before the bypass begins to open. I'm not saying ATF is wrong, but just know that its probably the 95% solution, but not the 100% solution - which is probably good enough in most situations.

 

[CDW6212R]

The PS fittings do move and rotate, that is normal. There is a teflon seal at each fitting end. Don't loosen those unless you have a new seal to install on it, they are one use only and destroyed when loosened.

I agree I'd flush new fluid, PS fluid, through it to see if it's just dirty. I like the easy to find Valvoline PS fluid for $4-$5 a quart, it's good stuff and it's clear.

Lubegard also makes a PS additive too, it may be as good as their trans additives. Regards,

 

[Hartman]

Alright I flushed 2 quarts worth of fluid thru the system today. My old fluid was quite milky (may be from the "power steering honey" I put it in when I bought it). Now the fluid is completely clear. Took it for a spin and it's better but still has some jerkiness to it. I'm going to see if it smooths itself out over the next few days, if not I'll replace the pump. Pump sounds completely normal and healthy...doesn't groan and is almost silent.

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to save the pumps, those models are $150 new.

 

[Hartman]

Well this past week it was perfect for about a day and then went back to being erratic. It's at it's worst when you have to make left and right turns consecutively. It almost feels like something is binding...but I figured that would make some sort of noise once it breaks free. I did notice my steering shaft has about 1/4" of play in it but I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the problem.