V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008 | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008

Here are my plans for my 1997 Mountaineer V8, and the official buildup thread.

The Goal: Fitting Interco TrXus MT 33x12.5R15 with style and offroad prowess.

The Plan:
Front Suspention: Superlift 4"
Rear Suspention: SOA, stock springs, warrior shackles.
Rear Axle: Originally belonging to IZwack, it's a 1998 with 4.56 gears and SOA perches. Limited Slip.
Front Axle: 1995 Explorer, with Central Axle Disconnect. Being regeared to 4.56. Open, perhaps an Aussie Locker.

New tire mounted on rear axle:
RearTire1.jpg


New 33" TrXus MTs vs 31" BFG ATs:
Tire-Comparison01.jpg
 



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Great work- love how she's sitting. Makes me wish I had the money...and the know-how...to do half of the stuff you've done.
 



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im always free in the evening.. andtime after 6ish is good!
 






Return from Rausch Creek

So after a weekend of this:
IMG_0941.jpg


IMG_0945.jpg


...a little bit this:
IMG_0965.jpg


IMG_0961.jpg


IMG_0959.jpg


...a touch of that:
IMG_0957.jpg


...and some time spent on here:
IMG_6715.jpg


IMG_6714.jpg


IMG_6713.jpg


I ended up with one heck of a to-do list....and one impressive Mountaineer!
 






To-Do, July 2008

Immediate
1) Replace stupidlift junk front shocks with Rancho 9000s, the front was bouncier than a rubber ball.
2) Possibly replace/re-index my torsion bars. The Superlift drop brackets actually give less clearance than stock, and hang up on a lot of things. My bars also sagged about 1" over the course of the weekend!! :eek:
3) Replace my swaybar bushings (both sides destroyed) and fab some disconnects.
4) Figure out why my trans isn't giving me engine braking unless a load is on it for several seconds, this really hurt me in the rocks.
5) Re-route my rear axle brakelines so they aren't exposed.
6) Firm up my brake pedal, it's too spongy; fix my ebrake so I can use it to activate the rear L/S.
7) Sawzall my front fenders, the pass tire destroyed the tupperware.

Phase II
1) Get the tire off the roof, it's way to tippy.
2) A beefy (1/4" Steel) plate to tie the two drop x-members together, and protect the diffy.
3) Rock sliders.
4) Figure out if my persistent clunk is a motor mount or something else.
 






Well Aaron you do sound like you had fun, no details required. Those are great pictures, and you did get home in one piece. Keep the projects going, people are learning a lot from all of this. Regards,
 


















Immediate
4) Figure out if my persistent clunk is a motor mount or something else.

sounds like the clunk i have. best guess is the 4406 bouncing around. hokie said he had the same noise after his swap. can you feel it in your shift lever or steering wheel?
 






sounds like the clunk i have. best guess is the 4406 bouncing around. hokie said he had the same noise after his swap. can you feel it in your shift lever or steering wheel?

I have the electric shift 4406, so no shift lever, I've also had the clunk since well before I had the 4406 installed.

I don't feel a jerk or shudder anywhere, but I hear it coming from under my feet.
 






ah. i can feel it on my drivers side floorboard. ill keep checking if ya find something, who knows could be the same. nice truck btw. and damn those torsion drop brackets haha.
 






patrick112390 sent this to me in a PM, here is the reply:

patrick112390 said:
i was reading the forum on, and i noticed you also have a 97 that you """superlifted"", well i have a few questions id like to ask a lift vet like yourself what is the exact list of extra parts i will need to lift my 97'..there is alot of confusing info out there and just wanted to make sure im not mid-lift and needing something..

there is talk about a
1. differential isolator pad?
2. torsion bar isolator-which requires welding?

this is all in response to something you wrote back in 05'
"It will work fine on a 97 5.0. You just need a custom driveshaft, rather than the superlift one. "

all your help is appreciated

1) Not 100% sure what you mean by "differential isolator pad," but it is most likely the bushing that goes into the superlift Front diff rear mount. It should be included in the kit, pressed into the drop arm.

2) No welding is required, check out page 2 of this thread for a detailed explanation of the torsion bar isolator pad required.

3) Evan (MountaineerGreen) had success building a custom front driveshaft from stock parts, but I didn't. The shaft I built is outlined in the this thread, but it is too short, and I need to have it lengthened. Right now I only get about 3/4" of spline engagement, which causes some nasty vibrations.
 






patrick112390 sent this to me in a PM, here is the reply:



1) Not 100% sure what you mean by "differential isolator pad," but it is most likely the bushing that goes into the superlift Front diff rear mount. It should be included in the kit, pressed into the drop arm.

2) No welding is required, check out page 2 of this thread for a detailed explanation of the torsion bar isolator pad required.

3) Evan (MountaineerGreen) had success building a custom front driveshaft from stock parts, but I didn't. The shaft I built is outlined in the this thread, but it is too short, and I need to have it lengthened. Right now I only get about 3/4" of spline engagement, which causes some nasty vibrations.

once again i really appreciate your help, i have read page 2 up and down, and am having a hard time coming to the final verdict of the parts i will need. it says i will need ____New part #, 6L5Z5B335AA, $14.36/ea + S/H from FastPartsNetwork.com___ which i just checked and is now 21.95..do i need to get 2 of those and new torsion bar key/adjusters?
 






New part #, 6L5Z5B335AA, $14.36/ea + S/H from FastPartsNetwork.com___ which i just checked and is now 21.95..do i need to get 2 of those and new torsion bar key/adjusters?

You need (2) Pads, and you will reuse your current keys. Just scrape the crap off the top, and relax now that you have the new 98+ style isolators which is a MUCH better design.
 






You need (2) Pads, and you will reuse your current keys. Just scrape the crap off the top, and relax now that you have the new 98+ style isolators which is a MUCH better design.

OHHHHHH i get it!!!! there is 2 pics one from 97 one from 98 and the 97 looks like it is just on the frame?.. anyway, will the superlift will have a space for the isolators to go in them?
 






OHHHHHH i get it!!!! there is 2 pics one from 97 one from 98 and the 97 looks like it is just on the frame?.. anyway, will the superlift will have a space for the isolators to go in them?

Go look under your truck, then back at the pictures, it'll make sense.

Here is a picture of the Superlift drop brackets:
TorsionDropBrackets01.jpg


In this photo, the brackets are UPSIDE DOWN - you're seeing the recess for the 98+ style isolator.

After you put the new pad into the bracket, it will look like the 98+ frame mount, just 4" lower:
attachment.jpg



No cutting, grinding, welding, religious ceremonies are needed to install the brackets. Just bolts.
 






Go look under your truck, then back at the pictures, it'll make sense.

Here is a picture of the Superlift drop brackets:
TorsionDropBrackets01.jpg


In this photo, the brackets are UPSIDE DOWN - you're seeing the recess for the 98+ style isolator.

After you put the new pad into the bracket, it will look like the 98+ frame mount, just 4" lower:
attachment.jpg



No cutting, grinding, welding, religious ceremonies are needed to install the brackets. Just bolts.



omg this is such a relief, i was stressin about all this extra stuff i was gonna need to buy, but now it just like i get those pads, and they drop right into the superlift brackets and im rollin! that is an actual ford part # right? because if i dont have to get them on that website i can get em for about ten bucks a piece...(i work at a stealership) lol
 












I hadn't seen the 95-97 frame mount for the keys. That looks interesting to work with stock, I'm glad that Ford improved that with the drop in isolators.
 






Hahaha.... Can you PM a price for some #1 rated torsion bars from your dealership?

for real? sure if you have a part number i could go by... next time i work ill ask..
does trailmaster use the same brackets as the 98? ive seen a few of there lifts that say 98 and later...
 



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I bought "B" bars from Ford about three years ago, for about $45 each. They aren't bad.
 






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