03snkvert
Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2009
- Messages
- 15
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- City, State
- Iowa
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2018 Sport
Just thought I would type up a quick how to on Water Pump replacement on my wifes 07 Limited w/ 4.0 V6. The car developed a leak a couple weeks ago and I thought it was the Water Outlet, Turns out it was the Water Outlet and Water Pump at the same time.
So here is a little guide from what I did to Replace the Pump:
Tools-
Fan Clutch Removal Tool- Rented from O'Reilly Aut Parts
Cooling System Pressure Tester (Optional)- Rented from O'Reilly Auto Parts
5/16" Wrench (battery)
8mm Socket
10mm socket
Pliers (hose clamp removal)
Small Screw Driver (electrical connector?)
Plastic Gasket Scraper or Plastic Razor Blade
Sand Paper (optional)
Paper Towels (lots)
Materials-
Water Pump
Gasket (usually included with pump)
Gasket Sealer
By-Pass Hose (optional, but for $5 highly Suggested)
16# Radiator Cap (optional, Murray 7516 at O'Reillys $8)
Anti-Freeze (Aprox 2-3 Gallons)
De-Ionized or Distilled Water (recommended) (Aprox 2-3 std, or 5-6 of using the optional pressure test)
1. Remove the Negative Battery Cable.
2. Remove 8mm bolt holding Power Steering Fluid reservoir. Do Not unhook lines just move off to the side.
3. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding on the Radiator Overflow Tank. Disconnect hose at radiator neck.
4. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding on Fan Shroud. There are 2 clips per side that hold the 2 pieces together. Remove the Shroud.
5. Remove Fan Clutch. The '07 Limited has and electronically controlled fan clutch so be very careful with this step. Remove connector and 8mm bolt holding the bracket to the motor, carefully rotate the connector etc towards the Passenger Side. This is required to get the Removal Tool on (I rented the tool from O'Reillys). Carefully remove the fan clutch and place it out of the way.
6a. Loosen the Bolts on the Water Pump pulley. Do not Remove, just break them loose.
6b. Remove the Belt. Using a 3/8 Ratchet (no Socket), swing the Tension-er down and remove the belt, be sure you take note of the Routing of the Belt (take a pic or make a sketch).
6c. Finish removing the 4 bolt holding on the Water Pump Pulley.
7. Remove 10mm bolt holding on Idler Pulley
8. Optional- I rented a Cooling System Pressure tester from O'Reilly's to double check the water was coming out of the weep hole on the Water Pump. This also revealed a leaking hose clamp that needed replaced right above the Passenger side Exhaust Manifold.
9. Drain Coolant into an acceptable container.
10. Disconnect all Hose Clamps that connect hoses to Water Pump.
11. Disconnect all Hoses connected to Water Pump. The By-Pass Hose (top of Pump), will come out with the pump.
12. Remove 8mm Bolt holding formed line to Bracket on Drivers side of Motor.
13a. Remove 12 8mm bolts holding water pump to Engine Block. These bolts are not torqued very tight so it should not take much to pull them out. Be very careful if one of these bolts feels tight.
13b. Remove the Water Pump. This should come out fairly easy, may take a gentle pry.
14. Clean Gasket Surface. With a PLASTIC razor blade or PLASTIC gasket scraper, GENTLY clean the surface that the new gasket will sit on. Be sure to put a rag or something into the Opening behind to pump to keep debris from getting in. I also took a piece of 320 grit sand paper and gently went around the mounting surface. I then took a small about of brake cleaner on a rag and made sure the area was clean. By taking your finger and running it around the mounting surface you can make sure the area is nice and clean and free of Debris.
15. Optional, but highly suggested- Cut new by-pass hose (between top of pump and water outlet)to size and mount it to the water pump. Make sure the clamp is holding the hose in place, and MAKE SURE THE CLAMP FOR THE WATER OUTLET IS ON THE HOSE DOWN BY THE PUMP! You can use the old hose a guide, but don't cut it to short.
16. Dry Fit Pump to check the fit of the By-Pass Hose. This is to ensure the By-Pass Hose has been trimmed to the Correct size.
17. Put Gasket on Pump. Using your finger, apply a thin coat of sealer ( I used Ultra Copper) to the pump (make sure you don't apply to thick, this could allow sealer to get into pump during assembly). Apply gasket to pump, and then apply another THIN coat of sealer to the gasket. Some people put the Gasket and Pump on Dry, I chose to use sealer.
18a. Install Pump. After letting the Sealer set up for a few moments, install the pump. Make sure the By-Pass hose is attached! I used a small amount of Anti-Freeze in the end of the Rubber hose to help it slide onto the Water outlet. Use a couple bolts to hold the pump in place.
18b. Install the Rest of the Bolts. Do NOT use an Air Ratchet or anything else to put these bolts back in, you should be able to install the bolts almost all the way by using a socket on the end of an extension with NO ratchet. If a bolt doesn't feel right don't force it, the last thing you want to do is cross thread a bolt. Gently snug all the Bolts down equally, go around the pump a few times, do not tighten the bolts all at once. I believe the book call for 89 in-lb witch is the equivalent to like 7 1/2 ft-lbs. I just snugged these up using my best judgment, 7 1/2 ft-lbs is not very much.
19. Install all of the Hoses and Clamps back onto the pump.
20. Optional- After waiting and hour or so for the sealer to set up a bit, I filled the system back up with Water Only, and used the Pressure Tester to put pressure on the system to make sure everything was good to go and there were no leaks, this will also let you know if you left any hoses loose.
21. Install the Idler Pulley. Check for Specs
22. Install Water Pump Pulley. Check for Specs. Just snug up the bolts, you can tighten these up a little easier after step 23.
23. Install belt
24. Re-install the 8mm bolt that holds the formed line to the motor.
25. Install Fan Clutch Assembly. I used the Removal tool to snug the clutch back onto the Water Pump. Be Careful no to damage the threads on the Fan Clutch or Water Pump. Re-install the 8mm bolt for the bracket, and plug in the connector.
26. Re-install the Fan Shroud
27. Re-install the Over Flow Tank and re-connect the hose
28. Re-install the Power Steering pump reservoir.
29. Re-connect the Battery.
I took the time to start the Car and let it run with the Water I had put into the system to check for leaks. I let the car come up to temperature and made sure there were no leaks. After LETTING THE CAR COOL DOWN, I drained the water from the System and put in a Mix of 50/50 Water/Anti-Freeze. (De-Ionized or Distilled water is recommended)
After letting the car get to Operating Temp (thermostat opens), and letting the Fluid circulate, make sure you check the Protection of the Anti-Freeze especially in climates where the Temp dips below freezing.
After driving the Car for a while, LET THE CAR COOL DOWN, and check the level of Anti-Freeze.
I opted to go with a 16# radiator cap after researching it on this site.
If I have missed anything, please let me know. I was going from memory and just thought this may help somebody else.
This is just a guide, it is not an end all be all. Just didn't see a write up on here and thought this could help someone else out.
So here is a little guide from what I did to Replace the Pump:
Tools-
Fan Clutch Removal Tool- Rented from O'Reilly Aut Parts
Cooling System Pressure Tester (Optional)- Rented from O'Reilly Auto Parts
5/16" Wrench (battery)
8mm Socket
10mm socket
Pliers (hose clamp removal)
Small Screw Driver (electrical connector?)
Plastic Gasket Scraper or Plastic Razor Blade
Sand Paper (optional)
Paper Towels (lots)
Materials-
Water Pump
Gasket (usually included with pump)
Gasket Sealer
By-Pass Hose (optional, but for $5 highly Suggested)
16# Radiator Cap (optional, Murray 7516 at O'Reillys $8)
Anti-Freeze (Aprox 2-3 Gallons)
De-Ionized or Distilled Water (recommended) (Aprox 2-3 std, or 5-6 of using the optional pressure test)
1. Remove the Negative Battery Cable.
2. Remove 8mm bolt holding Power Steering Fluid reservoir. Do Not unhook lines just move off to the side.
3. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding on the Radiator Overflow Tank. Disconnect hose at radiator neck.
4. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding on Fan Shroud. There are 2 clips per side that hold the 2 pieces together. Remove the Shroud.
5. Remove Fan Clutch. The '07 Limited has and electronically controlled fan clutch so be very careful with this step. Remove connector and 8mm bolt holding the bracket to the motor, carefully rotate the connector etc towards the Passenger Side. This is required to get the Removal Tool on (I rented the tool from O'Reillys). Carefully remove the fan clutch and place it out of the way.
6a. Loosen the Bolts on the Water Pump pulley. Do not Remove, just break them loose.
6b. Remove the Belt. Using a 3/8 Ratchet (no Socket), swing the Tension-er down and remove the belt, be sure you take note of the Routing of the Belt (take a pic or make a sketch).
6c. Finish removing the 4 bolt holding on the Water Pump Pulley.
7. Remove 10mm bolt holding on Idler Pulley
8. Optional- I rented a Cooling System Pressure tester from O'Reilly's to double check the water was coming out of the weep hole on the Water Pump. This also revealed a leaking hose clamp that needed replaced right above the Passenger side Exhaust Manifold.
9. Drain Coolant into an acceptable container.
10. Disconnect all Hose Clamps that connect hoses to Water Pump.
11. Disconnect all Hoses connected to Water Pump. The By-Pass Hose (top of Pump), will come out with the pump.
12. Remove 8mm Bolt holding formed line to Bracket on Drivers side of Motor.
13a. Remove 12 8mm bolts holding water pump to Engine Block. These bolts are not torqued very tight so it should not take much to pull them out. Be very careful if one of these bolts feels tight.
13b. Remove the Water Pump. This should come out fairly easy, may take a gentle pry.
14. Clean Gasket Surface. With a PLASTIC razor blade or PLASTIC gasket scraper, GENTLY clean the surface that the new gasket will sit on. Be sure to put a rag or something into the Opening behind to pump to keep debris from getting in. I also took a piece of 320 grit sand paper and gently went around the mounting surface. I then took a small about of brake cleaner on a rag and made sure the area was clean. By taking your finger and running it around the mounting surface you can make sure the area is nice and clean and free of Debris.
15. Optional, but highly suggested- Cut new by-pass hose (between top of pump and water outlet)to size and mount it to the water pump. Make sure the clamp is holding the hose in place, and MAKE SURE THE CLAMP FOR THE WATER OUTLET IS ON THE HOSE DOWN BY THE PUMP! You can use the old hose a guide, but don't cut it to short.
16. Dry Fit Pump to check the fit of the By-Pass Hose. This is to ensure the By-Pass Hose has been trimmed to the Correct size.
17. Put Gasket on Pump. Using your finger, apply a thin coat of sealer ( I used Ultra Copper) to the pump (make sure you don't apply to thick, this could allow sealer to get into pump during assembly). Apply gasket to pump, and then apply another THIN coat of sealer to the gasket. Some people put the Gasket and Pump on Dry, I chose to use sealer.
18a. Install Pump. After letting the Sealer set up for a few moments, install the pump. Make sure the By-Pass hose is attached! I used a small amount of Anti-Freeze in the end of the Rubber hose to help it slide onto the Water outlet. Use a couple bolts to hold the pump in place.
18b. Install the Rest of the Bolts. Do NOT use an Air Ratchet or anything else to put these bolts back in, you should be able to install the bolts almost all the way by using a socket on the end of an extension with NO ratchet. If a bolt doesn't feel right don't force it, the last thing you want to do is cross thread a bolt. Gently snug all the Bolts down equally, go around the pump a few times, do not tighten the bolts all at once. I believe the book call for 89 in-lb witch is the equivalent to like 7 1/2 ft-lbs. I just snugged these up using my best judgment, 7 1/2 ft-lbs is not very much.
19. Install all of the Hoses and Clamps back onto the pump.
20. Optional- After waiting and hour or so for the sealer to set up a bit, I filled the system back up with Water Only, and used the Pressure Tester to put pressure on the system to make sure everything was good to go and there were no leaks, this will also let you know if you left any hoses loose.
21. Install the Idler Pulley. Check for Specs
22. Install Water Pump Pulley. Check for Specs. Just snug up the bolts, you can tighten these up a little easier after step 23.
23. Install belt
24. Re-install the 8mm bolt that holds the formed line to the motor.
25. Install Fan Clutch Assembly. I used the Removal tool to snug the clutch back onto the Water Pump. Be Careful no to damage the threads on the Fan Clutch or Water Pump. Re-install the 8mm bolt for the bracket, and plug in the connector.
26. Re-install the Fan Shroud
27. Re-install the Over Flow Tank and re-connect the hose
28. Re-install the Power Steering pump reservoir.
29. Re-connect the Battery.
I took the time to start the Car and let it run with the Water I had put into the system to check for leaks. I let the car come up to temperature and made sure there were no leaks. After LETTING THE CAR COOL DOWN, I drained the water from the System and put in a Mix of 50/50 Water/Anti-Freeze. (De-Ionized or Distilled water is recommended)
After letting the car get to Operating Temp (thermostat opens), and letting the Fluid circulate, make sure you check the Protection of the Anti-Freeze especially in climates where the Temp dips below freezing.
After driving the Car for a while, LET THE CAR COOL DOWN, and check the level of Anti-Freeze.
I opted to go with a 16# radiator cap after researching it on this site.
If I have missed anything, please let me know. I was going from memory and just thought this may help somebody else.
This is just a guide, it is not an end all be all. Just didn't see a write up on here and thought this could help someone else out.
