Where Is My MAF, IAC etc ? 2004 Explorer

[stressedout]

Hello all. I am new here and need some help since I am new to Explorers. I usually work on Mustangs and don't understand the parts on the Explorer.

I need to know where the MAF, IAC and Throttle Body are on my 2004.

Mine threw the Service Engine light. Went to Autozone and the codes on their reader came up as:

P2100-TAC Motor Circuit/Open

P2104-TAC System Forced Idle

P2110-TAC System Forced Limited RPM

P2112-TAC System Stuck Closed


I don't know what that means on this vehicle but Autozone guy said he bets it's a dirty or bad Throttle Position Sensor or something. Does he sound right ?

But anyway, I have attached some pictures of the engine so that someone can hopefully point to where the MAF, IAC, Throttle Body etc are. The guy told me he thinks they are all under that SOHC cover.

I would really appreciate the help as fast as possible.

Thanks...

***Click Thumbnails For Larger Picture***

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

Your throttle body is the piece where the rubber intake hose attatches to the engine. The 2004 doesn't have an IAC motor...The electronic throttle control positions the throttle blade accordingly, thus eliminating the need for a seperate IAC. It also doesn't have a seperate throttle position sensor...Again, the electronic throttle control acts as your TPS as well as the IAC.
The MAF sensor is on the opposite side of the intake tube, integrated into the top of the air filter box. It's removeable, but to clean it, this isn't totally necessary...Just unplug it, remove the whole airbox lid from the tube, and spray your cleaner thru it that way.

Sounds to me like a fault in the main controller motor/actuator for the electronic throttle. I'd probably suggest an actual shop look at it (such as the local Ford dealer or other competent independent shop) to confirm this, rather than a bunch of stooges at Uh-Oh Zone.

 

[muzzymaniac]

That's one dusty notor! Anyone know what the "O W" scratched into the fan shroud is for? I have the same thing. It's not like a nice neat factory pressing. Looks almost carved into it.

 

[rjlynn]

That's one dusty notor! Anyone know what the "O W" scratched into the fan shroud is for? I have the same thing. It's not like a nice neat factory pressing. Looks almost carved into it.

Turn on your A/C, stick your fingers in there, and then ask =)

 

[stressedout]

So you guys don't think this is an issue where I could clean the throttle body or something ?

I hate to take it to a dealer around here since they will likely want at least $125.00 just to look at it. I mean, I will if it's absolutely the best suggestion but would certainly like to avoid it if possible.

Please advise.

By the way...are you guys also saying there should be no need to try to take off that SOHC cover ? Is there nothing under there that has anything to do with my Throotle Body or MAF or even the codes ?

Thanks again.

 

[cjones101812]

for 2112:
Key ON engine OFF. remove inlet tube from Throttle Body. press gas pedal to WOT and release, see if throttle plate moves to WOT and back to Closed throttle. does it??

for 2100:
disconnect PCM and ETBTPS connectors. measure resistance between harness side connector TP2 Pin#1 and TP1 pin#4, TP2 Pin#1 and ETCREF Pin#2, and TP2 Pin#1 and ETCRTN Pin#3. Pin#1 is GY/WH wire. is resistance in all tests over 10000 ohms?? if not, repair shorted circuit.

if that didn't cause the problem, you'll need a scanner that can read both TP PIDs. yes, the electronic Throttle Body (ETBTPS) has 2 TPS's. they're to cross check each other.

 

[stressedout]

Thanks. I'll check those things in a bit.

Also...can you answer the questions I have wriiten on the attached picture ?

Again, I am use to Mustangs so I'm wondering why the throttle body and whatever it is that looks like it is attached to it looks so corroded and old ?

Is it suppose to look like that ? Mine on my Mustang doesn't.

***Click For Larger Picture***

 

[cjones101812]

that's corrosion. do you live by the ocean??

4 wire connector is the ETBTPS connector, the 2 wire is for the motor.

 

[stressedout]

No I don't live by the ocean at all. I wonder why it's corroded like that.

That makes me wonder even more if the throttle body has a bunch of gunk in it ?

To clean the throttle body...would you suggest taking it off or just disconnecting the rubber air tube and visually looking ?

 

[cjones101812]

i'd do the first test for code 2112 in post #6. see if the motor can open it or if the computer is sending a signal to the motor. see if it's gunked up when doing that test.


all 4 of the codes could be from a bad motor or stuck throttle plate.

 

[muzzymaniac]

Turn on your A/C, stick your fingers in there, and then ask =)

Ahh! A comedian....

Thanks. I'll check those things in a bit.

Also...can you answer the questions I have wriiten on the attached picture ?

Again, I am use to Mustangs so I'm wondering why the throttle body and whatever it is that looks like it is attached to it looks so corroded and old ?

Is it suppose to look like that ? Mine on my Mustang doesn't.

***Click For Larger Picture***

My kids 98 Ranger has corrosion like that. Up here it's from all the road salt though. Nothing more than cosmetic - usually.

 

[stressedout]

In regards to "for 2112:
Key ON engine OFF. remove inlet tube from Throttle Body. press gas pedal to WOT and release, see if throttle plate moves to WOT and back to Closed throttle. does it??"

I tried it and NO the throttle plate doesn't move. Since this is computer controlled/electronic throttle body, I assume there is no way to bypass it ?

On another note, the Explorer won't even start now. I assume it's partially the battery (although I haven't had any battery issues before) because other things in the car wouldn't work at first either. That is, until I pulled out some jumper cables and connected it to the Mustang. Then everything else (lights etc) all worked but the Explorer wouldn't start even after letting it stay connected to the Mustang for about 20 minutes.

Perhaps the battery drained due to the Explorer sitting up for 2 -3 days in 20-30 degree weather ?

Any other ideas ? Again, I appreciate the help in trying to figure this out.


Wait...one other thing...Can that throttle plate be moved manually ? That may indicate whether it's stuck or not. I didn't try it just in case it's a bad thing to do. Also, I wouldn't know whether the plate should be pushed on or pulled on to check.

 

[cjones101812]

key ON, engine OFF. you should be able to manually push the throttle plate open. (i believe by pushing on top but not sure) should not have to push hard. throttle plate should close on it's own.

the battery should be 12v (12.6v ideal) static and above 10.0 volts when cranking.

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

Definitely sounds like the throttle body is dead. We see lots of newer Police Interceptors that have had sudden "dead pedal" conditions, and they need to get towed to the friendly Ford dealer for service, which usually involves replacing and recalibrating that actuator motor on the throttle body. Once in a great while, the sensor on the accelerator pedal gets wierd, but as a general rule, it's usually the throttle body end that's the problem. Is the wrench light on as well as the SES light?

 

[stressedout]

Yes, the wrench is lit up too.

 

[stressedout]

Well...thanks for the help and suggestions so far. Also, can you guys offer any other tips on checking out this throttle body ? The reason I ask is because when I look in the throttle body at the blade, it doesn't seem to want to push open. Doesn't matter if I push it from the bottom or top of the blade. Again, I am not pushing hard by any means.

E.B., so you think my issues would be resolved by buying and installing a new throttle body ? If you guys think so, is it a simple bolt on part like my Mustang's is ?

Thanks again...

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

I'd pick up a used one from a salvage yard. I am very confident that it will solve most, if not all of your problems. You can price a new actuator from Ford, but I'm not sure if they need to be calibrated or not. With a whole throttle body bought used, you just slam it on and go. 4 bolts and a wire connector and you're in business. Just don't over-tighten the bolts.

 

[fabfreak]

had the exact same problem after i attempted (then failed) to custom install a cold air intake on my '04. for whatever reason, the throttle body shut the butterfly valve and the truck's computer is forcing idle (a sloppy one at that) my truck is under warranty, but this is going to be slightly pricy. and i know i'm going to be the idiot who tries to do the intake again after the damn thing gets fixed.

 

[fabfreak]

ok so it wasent covered by warrenty. it was a $567.09 fix..