High_Order1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 31, 2007
- Messages
- 494
- Reaction score
- 3
- City, State
- near Oak Ridge, TN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2005 Jack Bauer Edition
rr - yeah, really it was. pull the negative, unbolt two bolts, unscrew the captive screw and unsnap (carefully! those things are POPULATED) three connectors, and basically wiggle it out.
Yank it from the mount, put the new one in, and reverse.
Now, the company needed some data. I know the tear tag was involved. THAT SUMBITCH was nearly impossible to find. It in my case was entirely hidden by the mounting bracket. There are other ways to find that data, but they are variable. (Ford keeps that data, and you can access it from motorcraft for free, but I forget now how I found the request page).
In addition, I think they needed to know trans type, engine size and type, rear end size, and something else. I forget.
So, that was all in there. I was worried about the stereo, and the dash, and a bunch of other things not liking the new kid at all. Not a single hitch. PASS data was absolutely simple, and I coulda let them program the rest of the keys / fobs, but I am a cheap *******.
Honestly, it was that simple.
I forget the name of the company, and I never did post it here b/c I was unsure about outside vendor links, but let me tell you - I have RARELY ever had someone who wasn't even sure they were getting a sale help me so much. I found out later they had a BBB score of F, so I wrote the BBB and told them what they did for me.
It was a place in Florida, and if it will really help, in January when I pull all my files for tax season, I will leave myself a note to look for the bill. (Course, I'll look sooner if someone is in immediate need.)
Jason,
thanks! It was a horrible time for me. I didn't get a lot of help from a lot of people that could have helped. Dealerships laughed at me. Seriously. Parts stores either had no clue, or wanted to sell me a scan tool. There wasn't much on the net pulled together at all, and what was was mostly conjecture. The service DVD was absolutely the most important thing I had. It allowed me to test, pin by pin, seeing if there was a bad connector, an intermittent wire, or a faulty sensor. I literally ran out of things it could be, and that's when I got the PCM's never go partially bad, they either work or they don't speech. Repeatedly.
That, my friends, is BS.
Turns out there are entire series of ECU's / PCM's (see, they can't even keep the terminology the same to help when searching) that came from sort of the same places that all experienced the same type of issues due to crappy caps, or solder failures. I found stuff in mazda and toyota forums that finally led me to the cause and solution.
Months of reading on dialup, dudes.
I am just blessed that it is over, really. And, if I start getting weird problems again, I can figure it out about 500 times faster and have it back on the road in a week, not in 3-4 months.
Yank it from the mount, put the new one in, and reverse.
Now, the company needed some data. I know the tear tag was involved. THAT SUMBITCH was nearly impossible to find. It in my case was entirely hidden by the mounting bracket. There are other ways to find that data, but they are variable. (Ford keeps that data, and you can access it from motorcraft for free, but I forget now how I found the request page).
In addition, I think they needed to know trans type, engine size and type, rear end size, and something else. I forget.
So, that was all in there. I was worried about the stereo, and the dash, and a bunch of other things not liking the new kid at all. Not a single hitch. PASS data was absolutely simple, and I coulda let them program the rest of the keys / fobs, but I am a cheap *******.
Honestly, it was that simple.
I forget the name of the company, and I never did post it here b/c I was unsure about outside vendor links, but let me tell you - I have RARELY ever had someone who wasn't even sure they were getting a sale help me so much. I found out later they had a BBB score of F, so I wrote the BBB and told them what they did for me.
It was a place in Florida, and if it will really help, in January when I pull all my files for tax season, I will leave myself a note to look for the bill. (Course, I'll look sooner if someone is in immediate need.)
Jason,
thanks! It was a horrible time for me. I didn't get a lot of help from a lot of people that could have helped. Dealerships laughed at me. Seriously. Parts stores either had no clue, or wanted to sell me a scan tool. There wasn't much on the net pulled together at all, and what was was mostly conjecture. The service DVD was absolutely the most important thing I had. It allowed me to test, pin by pin, seeing if there was a bad connector, an intermittent wire, or a faulty sensor. I literally ran out of things it could be, and that's when I got the PCM's never go partially bad, they either work or they don't speech. Repeatedly.
That, my friends, is BS.
Turns out there are entire series of ECU's / PCM's (see, they can't even keep the terminology the same to help when searching) that came from sort of the same places that all experienced the same type of issues due to crappy caps, or solder failures. I found stuff in mazda and toyota forums that finally led me to the cause and solution.
Months of reading on dialup, dudes.
I am just blessed that it is over, really. And, if I start getting weird problems again, I can figure it out about 500 times faster and have it back on the road in a week, not in 3-4 months.
