where should I put my jack stands? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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where should I put my jack stands?

Still bored, so I'll correct myself:


From the web site at http://www.motorera.com/history/hist08.htm

The first automobile to use torsion bar suspension was the 1921 Leyland. Most of the credit for the wide acceptance of torsion bars in Europe goes to Dr. Ferdinand Porsche who made it standard on most of his cars, beginning with the 1933 Volkswagen prototypes. By 1954, 21 makes of European cars were equipped with torsion bars.

I guess it's been around a lot longer than I thought, and even then, I'm sure they jacked it by the frame, not the torsion bars. ;) ;)

-Joe
 



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Well... I appologize if the majority don't agree with the way that I do things. I was just answering a question with my answer... I now understand that it is not an "Explorer Forum" accepted procedure. To some of the other questions that I saw since I've made my statement... yes, I do support F-150s, Navigators and Expedtions that way when necessary... and I have lifted rear wheel drive vehicles by the pumpkin on cast iron axles... I also lift Escapes by the running boards... maybe I'll go and find an Escape website and see how much that pisses them off...
 






Eneurb said:
Well... yes, I do support F-150s, Navigators and Expedtions that way when necessary... and I have lifted rear wheel drive vehicles by the pumpkin on cast iron axles...

When could it ever possibly be necessary? The body mount is less then 6 inches away on an Explorer/Ranger, and less than a foot away on the F-series/Expy/Navi platform. The frame is even closer on both of them. What possible need could you have (other than simple laziness) that necessitates doing it the 'wrong' way? Have you no pride in your workmanship? Just out to make a buck, I guess. What dealership is this exactly?

As for the rear axle, do I need to post the picture of that one too? Lets see... lets take a 5 foot wide beam and rest all the weight on the cast differential at its weakest point, right in the middle.... nevermind the fact that the axle tubes can be bent that way, or the fact that the axle is a weldment, not a solid casting. It's much easier for me to do it that way because then I only need one jack instead of two.....

I don't know what kind of training these technicians are getting anymore, but it's clearly not sufficient. Apparently they don't know how to read the service manuals either as the lifting points are on the SECOND PAGE of the service manual, right after the jacking points...... Lifting points for the Escape, for the record, are on the unibody structure, definately NOT the running boards. Jacking points are the bolt head on the lower control arm for the front, and the trailing arm for the rear.

Care to reveal any other stupid stuff you do to people's cars that damage the vehicles? Run straight antifreeze in the cooling system because if a little is good, a lot must be better? Maybe added an extra quart or two of oil during an oil change 'just because'? I mean, if 6 quarts is good, 7 must be better, right? I mean, do you have any proof that 7 or 8 quarts is bad for the motor? I've done it before, so it must be OK.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Going back to the original question, in the pics I posted earlier, you can place the jack stands at any of the above locations. Those are the factory lifting points. They should allow you full access to any of the components you need, and will safely and securely support the weight of the vehicle without damaging anything.

-Joe
 






Though I've never rested my Mounty on jack stands at the torsion bar locations, and probably never will, I'm sure you can do it and not harm them provided the stand is located very near their fixed ends; front or back. If the stand is located at the midpoint of the bar, or near the midpoint, the bar will deflect just like a beam will. My quess is they will deflect some when the load is applied there and return to the original position when the load of the vehicle is removed due to the elastic properties of steel and the relatively light load applied. This is similar to how the bars work in torsion; they wind up under load and unwind when the load is removed, like a spring or rubber band. The twist (torsion) in the bar probably has no play in this situation, especially with the wheel off the ground and the consequent reduction in the amount of twist or torsion so the bar is really acting like a steel beam. "Torsion" don't mean nuttin in this case. It's just a question of whether the bar and it's support points are strong or big enough to suppport a part of the truck's weight. The yield strength or elastic limit of steel is 36,000 psi; beyond that load, it will hold the deformation or set imposed by the higher loads. Our trucks weigh what, 3500-4000 lbs(?), and one support point (jack stand) is carrying half that amount at a maximum. The bars are 1-1/8" diameter(?) which is about 1 square inch in cross sectional area. The yield strength would never be exceeded.
The jack stands I have would fit perfect on the bars because of the "u" shape of the support surface on them. They would never slip. I would never rest the truck on jack stands utilizing the lifting lug on the control arm. I would be afraid of slippage there. That lug is shaped specifically for the OEM jack and should be used for wheel changes only where you're not lying under the truck. I put the jack stands on frame parts or under the control arms(near the hinge points on the frame) and make sure there's no possibility of slipping.
Sooooo, I don't know about you guys, but I feel better about using jack stands under the torsion bars. Besides, if Eneurb does it on my truck and breaks the torsion bar, he buys the bar!
 






I didn't even jack mine up when I removed my front sway bar to replace the bushings and end links.
 






Hey, if it broke, I'd take full responsibility. If these bars can't support the weight of the vehicle, I'm sure that they'd be snapping like twigs everytime you bottom them out on a rock while off roading... same goes for the differential pumpkin as far as I am concerned.
 






Eneurb said:
Hey, if it broke, I'd take full responsibility. If these bars can't support the weight of the vehicle, I'm sure that they'd be snapping like twigs everytime you bottom them out on a rock while off roading... same goes for the differential pumpkin as far as I am concerned.


Exactly

Jacking by the pumpkin isn’t going to hurt anything.

If that were the case then I am sure every time those leaf springs exerted differentiating weight on the 'axle tubes,' it would bend them.

That’s the way the axle is designed, the 8.8 axles use C-Clips because the carrier bearings and the wheel bearings support the weight of the vehicle…

One saying jacking up by the pumpkin is going to hurt something seems kind of self-defeating.
 






I can't belive this thread has gone on so long. Jacking from the running boards? From the torsion bars? From the diff housing?

Any one that does any of these things and has the nerve to defend his actions has no right to pick up a tool and work on any thing. And then call it "not an Explorer Forum accepted procedure." It's not accepted any where! Maybe tolerated, but by no means accepted! Any one that knows dick about this wouldn't want his/her car worked on in this manner. This is why people fear bringing their vehicles to dealers. A mechanic that takes his time and does things THE RIGHT WAY is worth his weight in gold.
 






Oh, and the "differentiating weight" theory doesn't make sense. All of the weight on the pumpkin is by no means the same as most of the weight on one wheel. I've seen lots of people jack from it, but it's still not an accepted lift point in any book.

I'm gonna go invent a lift that attaches directly to the coil springs so that all you first gen and solid axle guys can start lifting from your springs!

I see dumb people.
 






geoash, didnt know it was such a touchy topic, lol since Im so confused now can someone post a picture of the torsion bar? -lol
 






rblais, I thought about what you said and actually went out and took a look at mine. I would agree with you that yes, if you placed the jack stand such that it was resting on the cold-forged hex-tube where the forward end of the torsion bar mounts in the control arm, that might not be so bad. I was assuming he meant more near the middle of the torsion bar behind the control arm. However, the torsion bar mount in the control arm was never designed to be a weight-bearing member. It was designed to apply a torsional force through the control arm to the wheel at that point. When you place the jack stand under it, you completely change the loading on that lower control arm. (The force at that point completely reverses direction when it rests on the stand)

Would it work? Sure, but again, why would you need to? The factory jacking point on the control arm is literally inches away, and there's no chance of it slipping off a standard jack stand as it actually hooks over the stand's saddle (at least it does on every stand I've used on them).

I understand your point about the yield strength of the material, and yes, you are right, it's not likely being exceeded, but againthat's not the point. There is a better, safer, recommended, and no more difficult way to lift it up without taking any chance of damaging any components. Why do anything else?

Exactly

Jacking by the pumpkin isn’t going to hurt anything.

If that were the case then I am sure every time those leaf springs exerted differentiating weight on the 'axle tubes,' it would bend them.

That’s the way the axle is designed, the 8.8 axles use C-Clips because the carrier bearings and the wheel bearings support the weight of the vehicle…

One saying jacking up by the pumpkin is going to hurt something seems kind of self-defeating.

Could you please explain what "differentiating weight" is? That's a new term for me and I'm not too sure what you mean.

I would have to disagree with you about the bearings and their designed loads. The carrier bearings do NOT support the weight of the vehicle. The carrier bearings support the load that the pinion and ring gear places on the carrier, as well as the axial load on the axle shafts when cornering. They locate the axles from side to side. The majority of the radial loads due to the weight of the vehicle are carried by the axle bearings near the ends of the axle, very close to the spring perches. The length of the axle shaft acts like a large lever-arm to reduce the amount of force borne by the carrier bearings.

Now, at rest, the majority of the weight of the vehicle goes from the wheel, through the axle shaft, through the bearing, and up through the axle tube. The weight on the differential carrier bearings is actually down, and very minimal. That would tend to bend the axle tubes this way \_/ (greatly exaggerated). Now, when you pick up the rear of the truck by jacking the pig, the ENTIRE load of the vehicle goes from the jack head, down the axle tubes over a significantly long lever-arm, and up through the spring perches, trying to bend them this way: /-\. The only weight on the axle bearings is the weight due to the dangling tires. The rear axle was never designed to carry the weight of the vehicle on the differential housing. Otherwise, why run a spring on each side? Mount a single transverse spring on the differential and call it good. (Can you imagine how heavy the beam would have to be to support a 4500 lb truck by a central point?

Again, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

For the record, I didn't say that jacking the pumpkin WOULD hurt anything, I implied that it's not the best way to do it, and there is a better way for a good reason. We've all done it.... doesn't make it right (a hundred thousand Lemmings can't be wrong, can they?)
 






It's not accepted any where! Maybe tolerated, but by no means accepted! Any one that knows dick about this wouldn't want his/her car worked on in this manner. This is why people fear bringing their vehicles to dealers. A mechanic that takes his time and does things THE RIGHT WAY is worth his weight in gold. ......

I see dumb people.

jwrezz, I couldn't have said it better myself!

We could make a FORTUNE off of dumb people.... got any Turbolators to sell? How about a throttle body spacer or a Tornado? :)

-Joe
 






Crispy Niggets said:
geoash, didnt know it was such a touchy topic, lol since Im so confused now can someone post a picture of the torsion bar? -lol

I'll see if I can snag a few next time I'm under it... I might have some in my gallery, although they're a bit muddy.....

-Joe
 






Here ya go:
Taken from the driver's side looking to the passenger side. The round bar that runs from the cross-member to the front of the lower control arm is the torsion bar. 2nd generation 4x4s have one on each side to hold the truck up off the bump stops.

402504.jpg


Another decent shot looking forward from the right rear corner.

402514.jpg


Another thought: If he was talking about placing the stands on the Anti-Sway-bar mounts shown here, that might not be so bad either, but you'd need one heckuva tall jack stand to reach it!!

402498.jpg


-Joe
 






geosh, didnt know it was such a touchy topic, would someone post a pic of the torsion bars, im so confused now, good thing I had my dad helping me with the install.
 






thanks guys we put the jack stands on the metal peice between the wheels that is the pic with the bar lowest to the groun with the big mud clump on it
 






you dont get your vehicle muddy at all do you- lol
 






Creager said:
Exactly

Jacking by the pumpkin isn’t going to hurt anything.

If that were the case then I am sure every time those leaf springs exerted differentiating weight on the 'axle tubes,' it would bend them.

That’s the way the axle is designed, the 8.8 axles use C-Clips because the carrier bearings and the wheel bearings support the weight of the vehicle…

One saying jacking up by the pumpkin is going to hurt something seems kind of self-defeating.
Get the edge of a floorjack just right, where the cover is bolted to the pumpkin, and you will create a major oileak problem.
I use mine as a jackpoint, with a wood block slightly foreward of the cover
 






jwrezz said:
the "differentiating weight" theory doesn't make sense.

so nobody understands that your truck shifts weight from side to side over humps, bumps and dips... interesting. I figured anyone with a high-school diploma would find that self-explanatory.

spindlecone, i am glad you know how to put blocks on your jack... mines got a nice rubber cusion hehe


...420
 



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Creager said:
so nobody understands that your truck shifts weight from side to side over humps, bumps and dips... interesting. I figured anyone with a high-school diploma would find that self-explanatory.

spindlecone, i am glad you know how to put blocks on your jack... mines got a nice rubber cusion hehe


...420


Creager, that's kind of what I thought you meant, I had just never heard the term before, that's all.

The weight does transfer from side to side, but it does so through the spring perches on the axle tubes, which transmit the force through the bearings to the axle shaft. Very little of the force due to the weight of the vehicle is borne by the carrier bearings and transmitted to the diff housing. The lateral forces are, but they don't act to bend the axle.

-Joe.
 






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