Wiring Delemma on Stock Subwoofer

[Jacob Linder]

I'm having a huge headache trying to find ANY information on the wiring harness for the amp/sub on the audiophile package in my 2006 EB. I'm upgrading the stock amp and sub, but am keeping the stock enclosure. I've already come to the conclusion that I'll be running new wires to the head unit. HOWEVER I will be keeping the remote signal wire in the back with the stock harness (1 less wire to run). but no body seems to have any information or knowledge on this harness and I can't get a response from any of the old threads. Ultimately I'm trying to keep from making more than one cut into the harness. I've been trying to finish this project for over a week now. If anyone has any info on this harness or happens to have access to these diagrams I would be GREATLY appreciative.

 

[Tech By Trade]

You can swap all the wires except the remote to the new amp. Ford uses a 3v on for the remote line, everything else uses 12v. You will need to buy an adapter or rig up a relay system to a 12v feed.

 

[Jacob Linder]

You can swap all the wires except the remote to the new amp. Ford uses a 3v on for the remote line, everything else uses 12v. You will need to buy an adapter or rig up a relay system to a 12v feed.

I appreciate the feed back, but I've already got it all wired in except for the remote signal. unfortunately I couldn't find a diagram (and still can't that's the problem) so I already ran the RCA and power lines to the front. I hesitated the signal because of how small it is. I knew it could be done but wasn't savvy enough at the time to do it. So now I'm just looking for this one wire on the harness rather than the whole so I can just get it all back together before the snow falls again

 

[Jacob Linder]

You can swap all the wires except the remote to the new amp. Ford uses a 3v on for the remote line, everything else uses 12v. You will need to buy an adapter or rig up a relay system to a 12v feed.

Actually, let me make sure I'm understanding you. I need the adapter if I want to use the amp remote sig. with the stock harness? If I don't use the adapter I have to run it to the front?

 

[Tech By Trade]

The stock ford stereo only supplies 3 to 5v on the remote line. you have to run a converter no matter what. The remote line will not turn the amp on, the voltage is too low. You need to boost it to 12 v for the aftermarket amp to recognize it and turn on. You need something like this. Low current because its only a signal line. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-5V-6V-7V-...697599?hash=item3d1be06bff:g:ayAAAOSw3ihXTFos

Other option is to tie your amp remote line to an accessory line, then it turns on with your key.

 

[Jacob Linder]

The stock ford stereo only supplies 3 to 5v on the remote line. you have to run a converter no matter what. The remote line will not turn the amp on, the voltage is too low. You need to boost it to 12 v for the aftermarket amp to recognize it and turn on. You need something like this. Low current because its only a signal line. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-5V-6V-7V-...697599?hash=item3d1be06bff:g:ayAAAOSw3ihXTFos

Other option is to tie your amp remote line to an accessory line, then it turns on with your key.

I apologize I should have added I have a Pioneer AVH-x2800BS head unit with steering wheel control adapters and remote sig to stock amp and sub already there. That was my original intention to just use the stock harness since the head unit is already tapped into the harness. correct me if I'm wrong please. Still trying to learn lol

 

[Tech By Trade]

Did you loose the delay power down when you tapped in? Cant remember if the 6 is when they changed to can-bus control or if it was 07.

 

[Jacob Linder]

Did you loose the delay power down when you tapped in? Cant remember if the 6 is when they changed to can-bus control or if it was 07.

Yeah. when the engine is powered off so does the audio. no longer until a door is opened. Does this mean something?

 

[Jacob Linder]

Did you loose the delay power down when you tapped in? Cant remember if the 6 is when they changed to can-bus control or if it was 07.

But I also know when the key is turned on and all the electrical engages so does the audio, b/c of the popping that comes from the sub

 

[Tech By Trade]

Yes it does. That is all controlled by the ECU and the Can Bus system. Metra makes an adapter that is plug and play that would make this situation sooooo much easier. Runs about 50 bucks. used it in my install a few years back. I will see if I can find it. The sub popping is a common problem as well, caused by over voltage on the supply remote line. 12v instead of 5. The fix is a resistor. Posted about that one too. I will have a look and see if I can find them.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Here you go. Plug and play. Converts the Can bus signals to analog so all the functionality of the OEM setup stays with the aftermarket. Also comes with the wires to hook up the sub. http://metraonline.com/part/XSVI-5521-NAV. To run a factory sub, install a 1.5k resistor on the remote line of the factory deck to drop the voltage from 12v to 5v. For aftermarket leave it out.

my original http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/aftermarket-stereo-sub-click-not-pop.408031/

 

[Jacob Linder]

Here you go. Plug and play. Converts the Can bus signals to analog so all the functionality of the OEM setup stays with the aftermarket. Also comes with the wires to hook up the sub. http://metraonline.com/part/XSVI-5521-NAV. To run a factory sub, install a 1.5k resistor on the remote line of the factory deck to drop the voltage from 12v to 5v. For aftermarket leave it out.

my original http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/aftermarket-stereo-sub-click-not-pop.408031/

I'll have to look into all of this ! But as far as the signal wire goes can I run through harness or do i need to run to the head unit harness?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Must be there, because if I remember right you put the resistor on the wire from the deck, which would mean that its a straight connection to the amp, and does not run through the can-bus. Now which wire, I'm not sure. The Metra kit takes care of that for your. Check out ebscohost for oem wiring diagrams.

 

[Jacob Linder]

Must be there, because if I remember right you put the resistor on the wire from the deck, which would mean that its a straight connection to the amp, and does not run through the can-bus. Now which wire, I'm not sure. The Metra kit takes care of that for your. Check out ebscohost for oem wiring diagrams.

Thank you for all your help. I'm still a little if-fy about the wire I'm going to pick, butttt hopefully it'll work. As long as I don't have to wire to the head unit to get the 12v that I need in hope it works out.

 

[Partsman109]

 

[Partsman109]

I tried to everything to save those images so I could just post them here, but they are a weird svg file...even tried converting it...just couldn't figure it out so I just printed them and took pics with my phone, sorry.
Hope that helps, good luck!

 

[Jacob Linder]

I tried to everything to save those images so I could just post them here, but they are a weird svg file...even tried converting it...just couldn't figure it out so I just printed them and took pics with my phone, sorry.
Hope that helps, good luck!

You're amazing. Thanks for all the pictures. These will all certainly come in handy!

 

[Jacob Linder]

I tried to everything to save those images so I could just post them here, but they are a weird svg file...even tried converting it...just couldn't figure it out so I just printed them and took pics with my phone, sorry.
Hope that helps, good luck!

One last final question. Is the "Enable/Clip Detect" the same as remote signal? I'm assuming so considering it's the only wire left on the harness without use besides it's intended job. If so, is this the same wire I tapped into behind the head unit when i upgraded the deck?

 

[Partsman109]

I couldn't tell you for sure man, sorry...I can't jump into wiring like that, I have to actually be doing it myself to figure it out...it's not like hard parts. TBT seemed to have a pretty good grasp on what you have going on, maybe he will chime back in here.

 

[Tech By Trade]

LOL, you made me go look it up in the factory manual. Yes, the VIO/RED (violet red stripe) wire from the harness is the factory remote line. VIO/GRN (violet green stripe) is your sub + low audio. GRN/WHT (green white stripe) is your negitive low level output from your deck. The Black is isolation. BRN/RED (brown red stripe) is power, its live at all times. BLK/BLU (black blue stripe) on the amp is amp ground.