4.0 OHV Timing Adjustment | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 OHV Timing Adjustment

Pollarican

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 10, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Wall Township, New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 EB 4dr
So the other day, after reassembling my ignition system for the first time since my A4LD to M5OD trans swap, I tried to fire up the old blue beast. She cranked and kicked over, but she choked out as quickly as she fired. I'm assuming this is because I screwed up my ignition timing while unbolting my torque converter, leaving me with the task of figuring out how to and going about resetting my timing. With the problem stated, here is what the Hayne's Manual has to say on the topic:

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Top Dead Center (TDC) for Number 1 Piston - Locating:

Note: The 4.0 engine is not equipped with a distributor. Piston position must be determined by feeling for compression at the number one spark plug hole, then aligning the ignition timing marks as described in step 5.

1) Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again on exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke.

2) Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an essential part of many other repair procedures discussed in this manual.

3) Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in Neutral and apply the parking brake or block the rear wheels. Remove the Spark Plugs. Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the electrical connector from the ignition coil pack, located above the left valve cover.

4) In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the methods outlined below. When looking at the front of the engine, NORMAL CRANKSHAFT ROTATION IS CLOCKWISE.

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a) The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft.

b) A remote starter switch, which may save some time, can also be used. Follow the instructions included with the switch. Once the piston is close to TDC, use a socket and a ratchet as described in the previous paragraph.

c) If an assistant is available to turn the ignition switch, to the Start position in short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter switch. Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle, away from the ignition switch, then use a socket and ratchet as described in paragraph a) to complete the procedure.

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5) The crankshaft pulley has 35 teeth, evenly spaced every 10 degrees around the pulley, and a gap where the 36th tooth would be. The gap is located at 60 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). Turn the crankshaft until you feel compression at the number one spark plug hole, then turn it slowly until the sixth tooth from the missing tooth is aligned with the Variable Reluctance (VR) sensor and the TDC notch is aligned with the pointer (Located at the front of the engine).

6) After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining pistons can be located by turning the crankshaft and following the firing order.

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This is the method they have outlined. When reading this, my first question is, How do you feel for compression at the number 1 spark plug hole? Once I feel any compression in that hole, do I simply turn the crank until the 6th tooth from the missing tooth is aligned with the VR sensor to reset my timing?

I believe stock timing is 10 Degrees BTDC. My engine has 120,000 miles on it. Should I try to advance or retard my timing a few degrees to compensate for some compression lost to normal engine wear?

Any input would be appreciated guys, I intend to help others faced with this task based on the knowledge I gain from this experience. Hopefully I can flesh this out a bit to include pictures once I decipher the entire procedure.
 



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Bump - I know there area a few of you motorheads out there that can help answer one or two of my questions.
 






Well, going to play with this today in the garage. I'll see if I can figure out how to set the timing sucessfully. :rolleyes:
 






Put your thumb over the spark plug hole, sealing it. When theres compression, you'll feel it trying to push your thumb out of the hole.

And from what I can gather, you're right about setting it from the 6th tooth from the missing one to be at TDC.
 






Thanks for the reply. I changed the timing this past weekend enough to get it to idle somewhat decently, but it sure as hell needs a little more tuning. I'll try to get it precise this coming weekend.
 






Something just doesn't seem right.. I've had the trans out of our X many (5 ish) times over the years and have even built a 91 motor to replace the one in our '92 which we are currently running.

I never had the motor get "out of time". I don't even think its really possible..

Its DIS using a crank sensor and the Crank can only go on in one spot. I know you can "fiddle" with the crank sensor to try to move it a little to change where its timing but other than that, you don't really have any control. Its not like there is a distributor to time. Just get the Timing Gears/chain on correct and put the crank/harmonic balancer on correctly and your all set.

On the newer 4.0 ohv they have a cam sensor too but AFIAK you just use the cam position too to keep things aligned as you install it.

~Mark
 






After attempting to change the timing I got the motor to idle freely, whereas beforehand it would choke out almost instantly. I think I might have altered some kind of firing when I turned the crank the wrong way. I'm not sure what the effects of doing that are, but it sure as hell runs different when I try to "adjust the timing" by pulling the cylinder 1 plug and turning the crank.
 






wait so how did you adjust the timing?
 






As I understand the timing on the 4.0 ohv the timing chain and crank sensor do not really allow for adjustment. The big issue comes when you remove or replace the cam sensor that sits where a distributor would be. On the back of the engine. The cam sensor effects the timing of the fuel injector pulses. I cracked my cam sensor when installing a replacement transmission vac tube. What a pain to set it!!! There are several theads on setting the cam sensor. the one that made the most sense to me requires using a volt meter to test when the sensor gets a 12v signal after setting the crank past TDC. This took my new engine (or newly remaned) from running ok with CEL to running like a top. There was even noticeably less valve train noise. If you think timing is an issue check your codes and cam sensor. Replacements are hard to find unless you have a junk yard near by. Paid 9.99 for one that works perfect at the junk yard if you search the Internet for one you will see why I am stoked on the price. Good luck!
 






old bump

Something just doesn't seem right.. I've had the trans out of our X many (5 ish) times over the years and have even built a 91 motor to replace the one in our '92 which we are currently running.

I never had the motor get "out of time". I don't even think its really possible..

Its DIS using a crank sensor and the Crank can only go on in one spot. I know you can "fiddle" with the crank sensor to try to move it a little to change where its timing but other than that, you don't really have any control. Its not like there is a distributor to time. Just get the Timing Gears/chain on correct and put the crank/harmonic balancer on correctly and your all set.

On the newer 4.0 ohv they have a cam sensor too but AFIAK you just use the cam position too to keep things aligned as you install it.

~Mark


so this is okay to proceed w/install ?
 

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old bump




so this is okay to proceed w/install ?
Am I wrong if you put a timing light on the #1 wire and turn the sycro you would set it to 10 deg BTDC so every ten Deg would be 7 teeth before "gap" is your pic showing before "gap" wich is 60 deg BTDC or before white line wich looks like a TDC marking? I think 10 deg BTDC would be one tooth before white mark " that would be correct with timing light test I think?
Someone can verify logic
 






What?

Timing the cam sycnhronizer to the engine is done at tdc on compression stroke
The cam sensor simpmy needs to be on the correct tooth of the cam, it can be set 10 degrees forward or ten degrees back as long as it is set on the correct tooth

The computer takes over timing from there
no timing light needed we do not advance or retard timing on these engines by turning the cam synchro, it is not a distributor.
 






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