Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by BKennedy, June 4, 2013.
glad to see you saving car wish I had your expertise at wiring.
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I appreciate that, but its mostly trial and error throughout the years of working on the same rig.
Spent a bunch of time getting nothing really accomplished today. The label maker I ordered last week showed up and ruined all my plans of getting a lot done today.
This afternoon when I was really thinking about getting some work done, USPS showed up with my double mic holder and 8.8 skid / fill in the recess in the bottom plates made by Rock Ranger. The only holes I plan on putting in the dash are for the mic holder, and alarm LED.
Got the auxiliary battery and air compressor wired in and installed. I was worried the compressor was fried because the it's old ground wire casing was melted in places, but it works. Forgot to take pictures of the auxiliary battery wiring, but its the same 2 gauge welding wire from the post in the engine compartment to the battery, but in between there is a 450 amp mega-fuse and on the battery side of that is a 200 amp manual reset breaker. I will hopefully remember and take a few pictures tomorrow.
A bunch of supplies arrived today so I can get to wiring the auxiliary fuse panel soon.
Fuse and breaker location for auxiliary battery. I can sit up in there behind the axle to get to them, and they are safely mounted out of harm's way.
When the red heat shrink tubing I ordered arrives, I will have red ends on all the + side battery cables.
I also made a temporary hot knife out of a few nails and thin wire to cut the braided loom after fighting with the stuff for a month. It works great. I actually thought about going back and re-cutting all of the work I have done so far, but quickly forced that thought out of my head. This is taking long enough already.
Edit: I just got finished with the majority of the wiring! It got dark on me so I couldn't clean it up and wrap everything, but its mostly finished.
I admire your patience. When I mapped out how to make my duel (front/rear) camera set up it sent my head spinning, so I can only imagine.
I had to walk away or do something else several times while trying to figure out what goes where.
I finished up most of the wiring for the accessories today and it all works. I did a much cleaner job on it this time. Not quite finished with it. I need to drill a few holes in the inner fender to run ties to tighten it up, but I ran out of time for today. I am working at the Fallout Boy concert in a few hours. Here are a few pictures.
I moved the main harness that goes from this inner fender, though a hole in the frame and down the inside of the frame to the rear of the Explorer. Holds the fuel pump wiring, among other things. I moved it over so it isn't exposed outside the frame in the fender well. It originally was covered by the plastic inner fender, which I don't have any more. The 2 gauge wire running to the auxiliary battery is in the same loom. I double sleeved the battery wire with expandable weave loom all the way to the back, then wrapped the entire wiring harness in more loom. The picture makes it look close to the exhaust, but its actually farther away then in the original position. The round hole in the frame is where the harness originally was routed. I should weld a plate over the hole, and the two mounting holes for the ABS speed sensor which is no longer needed.
Wowzer, that looks great. Nice work!
I bought a large print label maker awhile back. Great investment
Center console done! Well, almost. The switch pod is not very secure. I need to add some metal strips to both sides to make it fit snugly and not pop out of position.
The gap above the radio was intentional. It will help dissipate the heat generated by the ham and CB.
I need to install the alarm and stereo, and the electrical will be finished, except for little details. I ordered different battery terminals because I purchased and installed some other terminals, but they don't have enough metal on them for my liking. After the alarm and stereo are installed, I can button up the dash and finally install Rock Ranger's double mic mount. I also might have to move the CB if it causes interference with the ham or vice-versa. They are next to each other in the console. I can move it under the dash if its a problem.
Should get started on the mechanical issues and interior next week:
Straighten and sleeve tie rod.
Replace motor mounts with Brian1's mounts.
Take front seats to get covered or reupholstered (getting console arm rest covered to match).
Put all my crap back in its proper places.
Go for a long drive...
Then, I need to strip the rest of the parts I want off the donor and call Josh so he can take it away to its final resting place.
I have also been looking at my headliner. Its been slowly failing over the years, and the smoke and steam finished it off. The cloth is separating over the driver's area. Does anyone know if it needs to drop down to come out, or can it slide out the back hatch? I am thinking of attempting to remove it so I can recover it while I have all the interior panels removed, but my cage is in the way of it dropping down. I am hoping I can wiggle it out over the top of the cage. I am going to ask the upholstery person when I drop off the seats.
That really came out great.
I like that shifter, and the layout of everything there. Looks real good!
I have removed/installed the headliners a few times. Doing them by myself, I had to get creative. Using a couple of twist lock type painting extension poles, with a section of thick cardboard. I pushed the liner up snug, and held it there with the poles, until I could get a few of the push clips in from front to back.
As long as you drop the rear of the head liner a few inches to clear the opening, you should be able to pull it out the back. It can bend ever so slightly from front to back, but not much, due to the dish like curves. Don't force it, or it will bend and crack.
The sides can snag as it slides, if too high. Having 3 people would be best. 2 on the sides to keep it in the clear, as 1 pulls in the back.
Thanks for the info gman, I think I will give it a try and see what happens.
I got the switch pod in much more securely. It was simple. I used a few pieces of that plastic door guard trim on the edges of the metal and it seems to be working.
I need the hatch struts and strut mounts off that donor if you aren't using them! Mine broke when I took them off
I need the mounts because mine are bent, but you can have the struts if you help me remove the hatch, right side doors and hood...
I'll take the bent ones!
Yea I'll swing by to help. I'll text you
I installed the transmission gauges today and I think they are both fried. Both went up to max temp/pressure and stayed there. The wiring to them was melted. I let the engine run for 10 minutes and there was no change. I have a email into the manufacture to see if its a possibility the sending units are bad and not the gauges, or ?.
I also noticed the alternator is not charging. Pulled it and am going to get that tested tomorrow.
Funny story. I purchased the alternator new a few years ago from AZ. I took it in to be tested and the tester wasn't working. They warrantied it and I walked out with a brand new one. Installed it when I got home, same thing....no charge. Then I got to thinking maybe the instrument cluster needs to be installed. Plugged the cluster in, alternator is putting out 14.4 volts. I guess I won't tell the folks at AZ about that.
The gauge manufacture of one of them got back to me. He thinks the gauges are probably fine, but the sending units are most likely fried. I ordered two new senders. I had to pull the pressure sender anyway to change the motor mounts (see below) because it will contact the trans tunnel when I raise the engine/trans. It didn't want to come out and got crushed.
Installed Brian1's awesome motor mounts. They went in with about the same amount of work as OEM. I had to pull two nuts off of the donor to do the install. One upper nut had a broken stud inside of it, one lower's threads were all screwed-up. Pulling the nuts off the donor took longer than installing the motor mounts. I forgot how much of a pain it is to work on the stock Explorers. I used two long wobble and one regular extension to get the lower nut off the driver side mount.
Only other issue I had with the new mounts is the engine sits less than 1/4" higher than it used to, which takes the tiny amount of clearance I had between the shock hoop cross member and the Idle Air Control Valve (highest point on the engine). I need to notch the cross member for clearance, but was planning on doing that anyway. It can't go any higher because it already rubs on the hood insulation.
Pulled the bent tie rod and am going to straighten that on Wednesday. Thursday, maybe Friday will be all the metal work; sleeve outside of tie rod, weld ham antenna mount to roof rack, notch cross member, cut off and relocate light bar mounts on bumper, and I am sure I am forgetting a few things.
Tomorrow I am hoping to have the alarm and stereo installed, and the dash finally done. Stereo is already wired, just need to install the mount and plug it in, but am doing that after I install the alarm.
I am also fairly confident I can pull the headliner out over the cage. I got it to move back a few inches by just pulling on it. I ripped the headliner out of the donor to see what is in the way. Think I can slide a few large pieces of cardboard in between the headliner and roof to help it slide. I will see this weekend. If it comes out in one piece, I can recover it with new material for $30-45.
Dropped the front seats off to get new covers made from Cordura type fabric. I drove around town getting several estimates to redo the original leather. It was just too expensive for a trail rig, between $800-1200 for the two front seats in vinyl. Maybe next time I am down at Puerto Penasco, I will have them redone.
Lastly, I purchased two fire extinguishers and some storage bins at Walmart today. Extinguishers are going to be mounted one on each side of the cage B or C pillars. Got some long and low bins for an idea I have been thinking about in the cargo area. Going to make a raised floor that the bins fit under with a recessed area behind the back seats for heavy stuff like tool bags, coolers, etc. Not doing that right now, but after I get it back in the garage.
If you do mind me asking what are they charging to do the seats. I need to get the seats recovered it the super duty but like you I can't justify a thousand dollars for putting new leather on them.
Just saw these...They're down the street practicality. Let me know if you want me to go check them out for you.
Electric leather bucket custom race seats with mounting rails
Going to cover the old front seats and go from there. Going to use the rear seat out of the donor; its cloth and in near new condition. The dog will like it, and she has torn up the leather of the old seat. I will let everyone know how they turn out. She is charging $150 for the two front seats, and $20 for the console arm rest. Said it would cost $200 extra to cover the rear seat. They should be ready this weekend.
Can't wait to see how the seats come out. That seems like a great deal
I also posted this in the audio, electronics forum, but I thought maybe someone here would know. I am so close to having the Explorer back on the road again, but its been fighting me lately;
I'm stumped and don't want to do any damage. I am trying to wire the 451M module with my new alarm install. Alarm is a Viper 3100. I wired the 451M like it says in the instructions but it just blows the in-line fuse when I activate the alarm. Its seems like its wired backwards, but I am not sure. Everything else works with the alarm. The doors unlock and lock with the door buttons.
1994 XLT 4 Door.
I wired the 451 M like the instructions below. The lock and unlock wiring is spliced into circuits 119 for lock (pink/yellow) and 120 for unlock (pink/light green). Switching lock and unlock wiring has same result, blown in-line fuse.
Edit: I think I have it wired wrong for the type of door lock switches in the Explorer. I think it should be like this;