Dana 44 Identity?

[RockRanger]

ARRRRGH, well I do have a 5.13'd 8.8 sitting behind my house. Probably won't be able to get the 3 speed moving that fast with those gears though.

Get bigger tires

 

[Kirby N.]

Well, the plan (which seems to change on a weekly basis) was to use the F-150 radius arms I already have with the passenger side wristed. Keep the axle full width, move the wedgies in three inches per side so its at stock Early Bronco width so it lines up with the frame rails.

AWESOME Idea I have thought about that alot too. I would only move them in 2" or so perside. I would probably measure in between the F150 frame rails and compare that to the inside of the Exploder frame to figure out how much they should be moved in.

I like coil overs, but they are a chunk of cash. If you can't swing it right now, you could just run coils until you can. It would be pretty easy to set them up.

 

[BKennedy]

Well, time to bring this thread back to life!

I am actually going to do the SAS in May/June of this year. Only took five years of planning and saving.
Plan on cutting the axle down to EB width. I just like that idea better than the full-width.
Plan on using Duff long travel radius arms, heim joint steering, panhard and mount.
http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/suspension_components.html
http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/steering.html
Might use Ballistic's panhard mount (any opinions welcome).
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/NEW-Adjustable-Panhard-Tracbar-Frame-mount-_p_1669.html
Plan on using coilover's instead of shocks, and coil springs.
The only thing I really need help with this time, is choosing the coil over springs and mounts. I don't want to go up into the engine compartment due to that turning this SAS into a major relocation job. I did see these mounts and thought they might work;

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=RSM1001 (I know it is for a rear mount application, but I actually saw this used as a front coilover mount and it seemed to work well).
or this if I get real enthusastic;
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=FSM2004

Any opinions of coilover shocks would be greatly appreciated. Please remember this is a semi-budget job and price is a major factor.
I have until mid-May to decide, then I can start spending my final check from the state (yes, I am retiring to a life of leasure). I get a check for all the unused leave credits and its nearly six months worth!
I am going to have access to a plasma cutter and a fab-shop grade welder (my rich buddy has all of our's dream garage).
Doing the SAS this way will be fairly straight-forward. Since this is my first attempt at this, straight-forward is good.

 

[mounty71]

I was just recently wondering what happened to your plans for an SAS.

I like these shock towers too, but these are 3/16 vs. the 1/4 you posted: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/STOWER12.html

Most coilover companies are all good, just choose the color you like best and you'll likely be happy. FOA is one company that is debatable. Some people swear by them, some people hate them. I have a friend who runs nothing but FOA, but I've seen too many people with too many problems to want to run them myself. I'm pretty sure Bilstein is or was in the SD area, can't remember if I heard they moved or not, but they make great quality shocks and it would be easy for you to get parts or service from them if they are still there.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks.
I am thinking more and more about going for it and running shock hoops into the engine compartment. My main problem with that is; how do you relocate the engine air intake box? To my knowledge, there is still no CA legal intake made for the 91-94 Explorers, and the passenger side hoop would end up going right through the air box.
Relocating the coolant and washer fluid tank on the driver side would not be that hard; just get two seperate smaller tanks and put them wherever they fit. A master cylinder from a F-150 would take care of the brake lines being in the way because they mount on the engine side. It should be a bolt in swap, and it helps with brake pressure for the larger calipers on the D44.

 

[Stic-o]

You can put a open air filter on there, that's what I have. The problem comes when you have to smog. The factory box needs to be on there then. I just swap mine back in for that, but have to remove the radiator overflow and washer fluid so it will fit. But hay...It's once every 2 years

I like the idea of coil overs. I would gone that route but didn't want to spend the money on them.

Take a look at Jefe's old SAS thread. he ran coil over with custom hoops made from box steel. They we're kinda ugly, but it worked. May give you some ideas. Would be good to see what rates he used to, because the weight was probably about the same. His swayed way to much for my tastes in cornering on the gas though Though I would fall out of the truck, and the tires would rub the top of the fenders.

 

[mounty71]

I've had an aftermarket intake without the airbox for like 8 years now, never had an issue passing smog.

 

[Stic-o]

I've had an aftermarket intake without the airbox for like 8 years now, never had an issue passing smog.

mine is just the KKM cone filter. There is no carb # or anything..

 

[mounty71]

mine is just the KKM cone filter. There is no carb # or anything..

No carb number on mine either. Watch, next time I'll have a problem now that I've mentioned it.

 

[BKennedy]

No carb number on mine either. Watch, next time I'll have a problem now that I've mentioned it.

I am not lucky that way. I would end up doing all the work, so there was no turning back, then get nailed at a smog check.

 

[Rick]

That's where mine were located to keep out of the engine bay. When mounted on the link the spring rate has to be much higher than when mounted directly to the axle. I'm running 450/650.

I'm not sure if that could be adapted to EB radius arms or not.

My #1 recommendation is to make sure you plate the frame before adding a trac bar mount. Trac bar mounts seem to be the weak link in home brew setups.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks Rick. I do remember your shocks being relatively short for all the flex you get. You think that if I just mount then as far up as I can get without moving a bunch of stuff around in the engine compartment I will get enough shock length to get good flex?
How long are your shocks?

 

[tdavis]

If there is no sensors on the air box, then you can legally replace it with anything..

From http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/replace.htm

Air Cleaner
Most emission controlled vehicles will have an air cleaner that is a closed element type or thermostatically controlled. A replacement air cleaner must meet the same specifications as the original and connect to any emissions equipment that was attached to the original equipment air cleaner. Any replacement air cleaner elements may be used as long as they meet original factory specifications. Any air cleaner that does not meet the original factory specifications requires an Executive Order to be legal for street use.

I have to use this rule on the Superduty.. The Ford factory AIS replacment does not have a EO number, but yet it's still legal.

 

[tdavis]

Oh, and NO WHERE in the smog rules does it say the hood has to close.. Or even be on the vehicle, last time I checked.

 

[BKennedy]

What about this??

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241696&highlight=air+intake

So, If I just plug the vacumn line and remove the other line that goes to the Thermostatic Control Valve, but leave the valve in place it should pass CA smog?

I guess I could just unplug the hose leading to the TCV, drive around for a while and see if the CEL comes on.

 

[Kirby N.]

I would still think about leaving the axle full width. It is going to save you time/ money and give you more clearance above the differential with the stock crossmember/ oil pan. If you are worried about it being wide, just run some wheels with very small backspacing like stock f150 wheels. If you move the radius arm mounts in like you mentioned you wont have to worry about rubbing on them anyway.

 

[BKennedy]

I would still think about leaving the axle full width.

Nope. I just don't like full width axles on narrow rigs. The only one I ever liked was the JP Mobile, but that took some getting used to. You can't see the axles past that crazy paint job.

I want a clean, solid, reliable, go anywhere I want, built truck that doesn't have to be too over the top. I am even thinking of sticking with my 35" tires.

 

[Rick]

You think that if I just mount then as far up as I can get without moving a bunch of stuff around in the engine compartment I will get enough shock length to get good flex?
How long are your shocks?

It's been so darn long...13 years, I don't remember the length of the coil over

You won't be able to get the same flex that I get moving that size shock to the axle tube. The ratio of movement is different. I'm sure someone else can explain that better...

 

[Stic-o]

It's been so darn long...13 years, I don't remember the length of the coil over

You won't be able to get the same flex that I get moving that size shock to the axle tube. The ratio of movement is different. I'm sure someone else can explain that better...

It works in a arc....whats to explain?

Thanks for the kudos BK.:JP:

 

[DB_1]

It's been so darn long...13 years, I don't remember the length of the coil over

I think they are 10" C/O's...somehow I remember that from years ago.

Brian, sticking with the 35's isn't a bad idea. Jefe's rig did some incredible stuff on 35's. Plus it's not quite as hard on parts and you don't have to lift it to the sky.

Good luck with the build, anxious to see how it turns out