LED bar wiring and switch set up

[grizzlyxjim]

So I ordered a light bar and I am waiting to get it in the mail in the mean time I am wondering where all you guys have your switches at, I have one for bumper foglights wired under the center console I would like to see just some different setups if yall don't mind sharing

 

[96Green]

Hey. Here's my lightbar & switch setup.

The lightbar is controlled by the two switches on the center console, just above the cubby thing.

 

[grizzlyxjim]

interesting I haven't seen one set up that way.

 

[96Green]

I'm running an Auxbeam X-Series. One switch turns on the parkie function:

... and the other turns on the Light Cannons of Doom:

Other good places, in my opinion, for switches are:

Up on the radio surround:

(these control the rest of my AUX lighting)

... Or if you want something a bit more out of sight, on the side of the center console:

(like my reverse light override switch)

 

[grizzlyxjim]

Nice. This gives me some idea, A little more discrete than I was thinking, I like big gawdy switches haha.. I was basically trying to figure out where to mounnt it where it won't hit my legs when driving, same issue I had with the CB. On my old Samurai they where on the center dash above the gear shifter. The curves of the dash on my mounty make that not so much of a possibility.

 

[grizzlyxjim]

So I get the light bar mounted but I am having an issue with the wiring. I have the power from the dist. box going to a relay then grounded, then power from the relay to the switch in the cab and then lights to the relay, and lights grounded. When I connect the bar to the battery itself the lights come on bright as day but when hooked to the relay one side of the light bar does not light up so I am not getting enough power somewhere. Would the solution be to get a relay that can tolerate more amps:? I think it is a 30 amp relay. it gets hot as hell too when it is running. lights are only 240w LED

 

[96ex5.0]

I relocated my plate and mounted it behind the bumper, it's wired into the factory fog light switch.

 

[96Green]

So I get the light bar mounted but I am having an issue with the wiring. I have the power from the dist. box going to a relay then grounded, then power from the relay to the switch in the cab and then lights to the relay, and lights grounded. When I connect the bar to the battery itself the lights come on bright as day but when hooked to the relay one side of the light bar does not light up so I am not getting enough power somewhere. Would the solution be to get a relay that can tolerate more amps:? I think it is a 30 amp relay. it gets hot as hell too when it is running. lights are only 240w LED

You have something wired very wrong! Stop! I am totally willing to help you, but, I really think you aught to either get a pre-made harness off of Amazon, or have someone who has done this before lend a hand, before you burn your truck down.

I'm not saying the above to be mean, but merely to inform you that this is a very real possibility. If you do want to do this yourself, then do some googling; there are loads of guides out there that will take you through it step by step. I'll offer some hints below:

Also, no. Do not get a "bigger" relay. The 30 amp relay is sufficient. A 240w lightbar at 12v should draw ~20amps.

First, I'll explain what a relay does. A relay lets you control a BIG current (say, your 20 amp lightbar) with a weee tiny current, while keeping those two sides electrically isolated from one another. Think of it like a switch, but, instead of you physically flicking it, you are using an electromagnet (coil) to do the physical work for you. When you energize the coil, it turns on the BIG side of the relay.

Your relay should have four (or five) pins on it. They should all be marked with a number, if you look next to the pins. You can google for the relay pinout to work out what each number is referring to; I'm not going to do it for you, as research is a good learning experience. Here is what the various pins do:

• Coil 12v is the pin you energize when you want your lightbar to turn on. This is super low draw, so, you can grab the 12v for it from pretty much anywhere (ign switched, constant 12v, another light (say, if you want it to come on w/ your high beams)). Applying 12v to that pin closes the other ("Big Hairy Load") side of the relay, completing that circuit.
• Coil Ground goes to ground. This pin has to be grounded for the coil to activate.
• Load 12v: This should go to your battery (+) (through an appropriately rated fuse). The "Load" side of the relay is the beefy side that turns on when you energize the coil.
• Load NO (Normally Open): Connect this pin to the 12v positive lead on the lightbar. Then ground the ground lead of the lightbar somewhere.

As wired above, when you apply 12v across the coil side (using a switch you mount to your dash somewhere, or using another existing (switched) circuit), the relay will connect the NO and Load 12v pins together, allowing Big Chunky Current to flow through that side of the relay, from your battery, to the lightbar.


I mentioned fuses a few times in there. Fuses are good. Fuses are your friend. Both the Coil 12v and the Load 12v should have appropriately rated fuses inline. If a fuse pops, it means something is wrong. Do not fit a bigger fuse! That's how people burn their trucks down. The 12v Load (the Big Chunky Side) should probably have a 30amp fuse, and the relay Coil 12v, a 5amp one. That should be well less than 5amps, so... no need for anything bigger.

If things are getting unusually hot, it means something is not right. Power down, and check yoself 'fo you wreck yoself. And don't be afraid to ask questions... I'm happy to offer guidance.

PS: I'm not responsible if something goes horribly wrong... this is advice only, not to be taken as a how-to. Follow at your own risk. Known by the state of California to cause cancer in lab animals. Yadda Yadda Yadda.

 

[grizzlyxjim]

You have something wired very wrong! Stop! I am totally willing to help you, but, I really think you aught to either get a pre-made harness off of Amazon, or have someone who has done this before lend a hand, before you burn your truck down.

I'm not saying the above to be mean, but merely to inform you that this is a very real possibility. If you do want to do this yourself, then do some googling; there are loads of guides out there that will take you through it step by step. I'll offer some hints below:

Also, no. Do not get a "bigger" relay. The 30 amp relay is sufficient. A 240w lightbar at 12v should draw ~20amps.

First, I'll explain what a relay does. A relay lets you control a BIG current (say, your 20 amp lightbar) with a weee tiny current, while keeping those two sides electrically isolated from one another. Think of it like a switch, but, instead of you physically flicking it, you are using an electromagnet (coil) to do the physical work for you. When you energize the coil, it turns on the BIG side of the relay.

Your relay should have four (or five) pins on it. They should all be marked with a number, if you look next to the pins. You can google for the relay pinout to work out what each number is referring to; I'm not going to do it for you, as research is a good learning experience. Here is what the various pins do:

• Coil 12v is the pin you energize when you want your lightbar to turn on. This is super low draw, so, you can grab the 12v for it from pretty much anywhere (ign switched, constant 12v, another light (say, if you want it to come on w/ your high beams)). Applying 12v to that pin closes the other ("Big Hairy Load") side of the relay, completing that circuit.
• Coil Ground goes to ground. This pin has to be grounded for the coil to activate.
• Load 12v: This should go to your battery (+) (through an appropriately rated fuse). The "Load" side of the relay is the beefy side that turns on when you energize the coil.
• Load NO (Normally Open): Connect this pin to the 12v positive lead on the lightbar. Then ground the ground lead of the lightbar somewhere.

As wired above, when you apply 12v across the coil side (using a switch you mount to your dash somewhere, or using another existing (switched) circuit), the relay will connect the NO and Load 12v pins together, allowing Big Chunky Current to flow through that side of the relay, from your battery, to the lightbar.


I mentioned fuses a few times in there. Fuses are good. Fuses are your friend. Both the Coil 12v and the Load 12v should have appropriately rated fuses inline. If a fuse pops, it means something is wrong. Do not fit a bigger fuse! That's how people burn their trucks down. The 12v Load (the Big Chunky Side) should probably have a 30amp fuse, and the relay Coil 12v, a 5amp one. That should be well less than 5amps, so... no need for anything bigger.

If things are getting unusually hot, it means something is not right. Power down, and check yoself 'fo you wreck yoself. And don't be afraid to ask questions... I'm happy to offer guidance.

PS: I'm not responsible if something goes horribly wrong... this is advice only, not to be taken as a how-to. Follow at your own risk. Known by the state of California to cause cancer in lab animals. Yadda Yadda Yadda.

Hah as it turns out the relay was faulty put a new one in and everything worked as it should, no heat. Also I have two inline fuses in my set up, the wiring itself was simple I had done wiring on my Suzuki samurai before but I didn't use relays only fuses.

 

[grizzlyxjim]

 

[96Green]

Your images don't seem to work.

I'm glad to hear you got it working though, and glad it was something simple like a faulty relay.

 

[funhousejoe]

i cut mine into the roof console

 

[grizzlyxjim]

i cut mine into the roof console

View attachment 96013

thats a good idea too

 

[IrishManson]

i cut mine into the roof console

View attachment 96013

How did you make this happen? this a great area for me since all the junk there on my expo don't work anyway lol

 

[Melon]

I mounted my light bar on the brush guard - fairly common.

As far as the switch, I went and got a replacement floor mounted high beam button switch - like older cars and trucks. I like it because it's discrete, out of the way, but easy to get to when I want it. Cut a small hole in the carpet and used a screw to hold it in place.

I ran the wires through a rubber grommet, but have the fuse and relay in the engine bay in the corner and out of the way.