More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

[cjmedina]

Well`....My Bad

Years ago we used to drop the manifold and lift from the intake but can't do it that way anymore. No problem putting the nuts back on. The impact wrench makes it so easy. I also have a right angle one like in the Swedish PDF pics.

 

[cjmedina]

I wonder if the cause of the engine breaking up at 3700 rpm had anything to do with the guide?

 

[cjmedina]

Starting the Engine Removal

The Fan clutch removal was harder then I thought but after I made some tools it came off in 10 seconds. I tried the strap wrench approach but could not keep it from slipping. And I had a crescent wrench for the nut but it was to thick so I came up with this:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8525.JPG

I have 2 1 1/4" open ends so I ground open one to 1 7/16 and I used a 10mm box wrench held across another of the 4 screws in a pipe to hold the hub.

I'm using a small pallet to stand on to save my back.

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8529.JPG


When I disconnect these lines will I loose fluid?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8527.JPG



CJ

 

[03silversvt]

those lines are your transmission lines. No you wont loose any fluid at all when you disconnect them

 

[2000StreetRod]

Use a back wrench

The Fan clutch removal was harder then I thought but after I made some tools it came off in 10 seconds. I tried the strap wrench approach but could not keep it from slipping. And I had a crescent wrench for the nut but it was to thick so I came up with this:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8525.JPG

I can identify with your improvised tool. Someone gave me the special Ford fan clutch removal tool as a Christmas gift so I didn't have to improvise one.

. . . When I disconnect these lines will I loose fluid?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8527.JPG

CJ

Make sure to use a back wrench on the fitting nearest the radiator when loosening the outer fitting. Otherwise, you might end up having to take the radiator to a radiator shop for repair.

 

[cjmedina]

I can identify with your improvised tool. Someone gave me the special Ford fan clutch removal tool as a Christmas gift so I didn't have to improvise one.



Make sure to use a back wrench on the fitting nearest the radiator when loosening the outer fitting. Otherwise, you might end up having to take the radiator to a radiator shop for repair.

Yep....I saw the other fitting so I used 2 wrenches...one to hold and the other to turn.

CJ

 

[cjmedina]

Something isn't right

I was going to time the right Cam and then check that bank for compression. I noticed that the back Rocker on the #3 cylinder is loose and even fell in to the head. I can't believe there is so much clearance that it could fall out of position unless a valve is stuck open?????

It looks like both springs are at same height.

Maybe a lifter?


ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/CAM/DSCN8538.JPG



ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/RH Chain/DSCN8309.JPG

 

[2000StreetRod]

Loose rocker

That rocker arm seems to be the one most likely to fall out. It's fallen out on several other member's engines. If the spring heights are the same then the valve stem is not stuck open. You can confirm with your air compressor that the valve is seated. It may be that your valve adjuster has excessive clearance or is just out of oil pressure. Check one of the other rocker arms for comparable looseness.

 

[cjmedina]

Check with compressor.....

I made the adapter so I could hit that cylinder with compressed air.

The cam sprocket is still loose.

Should I remove the cam again. I don't want a piston coming up and hitting a valve.

CJ

 

[cjmedina]

Wouldn't Budge!

Tackling those nasty exhaust bolts......Sure, no problem....NOT

I couldn't even slightly get them to move with a 700 ft/lb impact wrench!

I had no choice but to get the Dewalt sawzall out with a carbide saw and go at it.......

The last one on the drivers side was the worst because I had no clearance but I was able to get a 12" extension and a breaker with a lot of force which snapped the bolt. I will now have to drill all of them out ....I HAD NO CHOICE.

About 1/2 hour of work.

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/DSCN8539.JPG

 

[2000StreetRod]

New bolts

Tackling those nasty exhaust bolts......Sure, no problem....NOT

I couldn't even slightly get them to move with a 700 ft/lb impact wrench!

I had no choice but to get the Dewalt sawzall out with a carbide saw and go at it.......

The last one on the drivers side was the worst because I had no clearance but I was able to get a 12" extension and a breaker with a lot of force which snapped the bolt. I will now have to drill all of them out ....I HAD NO CHOICE.

About 1/2 hour of work.

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/DSCN8539.JPG

I purchased four of those bolts from my local Ford dealer. I couldn't find the equivalent anywhere else. They were $5.50 each. I mentioned to the parts manager that it's too bad Ford manufacturing doesn't know about anti-seize compound.

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the lash adjuster

I made the adapter so I could hit that cylinder with compressed air.

The cam sprocket is still loose.

Should I remove the cam again. I don't want a piston coming up and hitting a valve.

CJ

I hate to say it but you probably should remove the cam so you can check the rocker arm and lash adjuster. You can check the compression while the cam is out.

 

[cjmedina]

No Problem pulling the cam again.

What about the chain and sprocket turning without being held up by the cam if the engine starts to turn after hitting that cylinder with air?

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Piston at BDC

No Problem pulling the cam again.

What about the chain and sprocket turning without being held up by the cam if the engine starts to turn after hitting that cylinder with air?

Cliff

You could rig something up to allow the sprocket with chain to spin such as a stiff wire or you could make sure the piston is at bottom dead center so it won't move. There are 6 pistons equally spaced in crankshaft rotation to reach TDC every 360 degrees. The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 so when piston #1 is at TDC piston #3 is 240 degrees behind or 60 degrees before bottom dead center. If you rotate piston #1 clockwise 60 degrees after TDC then #3 should be at BDC. Remove the cam before rotating the crankshaft to avoid "interference".

 

[cjmedina]

OK.....Good idea.

I could rig something to hold the sprocket up inline with the chain. I could use a stiff wire since the sprocket is not keyed.

Thanks dale



Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

TDC for 1,2,3

Isn't there 2 complete rotations of the crank to come back to TDC for each cylinder and each cylinder is 60 degrees apart. one turn of the crank is 180 degrees. Don't I need to bring the #1,2,3 cylinder to the top TDC and hit it with compressed air to check? Then I need to know how much to turn to get to that point. It looks like 3 cylinder would be firing for each turn of the crank then a cylinder would be firing every 120 degress???


Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

It's Bent

Well I didn't have to go much further to find out that I have a bent vale in the number 3 cylinder.

I pulled the Cam out and found that all Springs were same height except the last one. It was 1/4" lower then the others.

I found this RedNeck repair method.......INTERESTING

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAU-omdBmI8

Years ago I had an Escort that broke the timing belt and bent some valves. All I did was replace the valve and lap them in with compound and used a stick with a suction cup. The vehicle ran fine for 2 more years until i sold it..

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Two TDCs per firing

Isn't there 2 complete rotations of the crank to come back to TDC for each cylinder and each cylinder is 60 degrees apart. one turn of the crank is 180 degrees. Don't I need to bring the #1,2,3 cylinder to the top TDC and hit it with compressed air to check? Then I need to know how much to turn to get to that point. It looks like 3 cylinder would be firing for each turn of the crank then a cylinder would be firing every 120 degress???


Cliff

You are correct that two revolutions of the crankshaft are required for each compression/firing but there is a TDC for exhaust and a TDC for ignition. A compression ratio test would require measuring the pressure in the combustion chamber with the piston at TDC on the compression/ignition cycle. A leak test with an air compressor just pressurizes the cylinder and chamber to see if the valves leak. With no camshaft installed all of the intake and exhaust valves should be closed allowing pressurization.

 

[BobWiersema]

I found this RedNeck repair method.......INTERESTING

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAU-omdBmI8

Cliff

Is that guy serious?

I would never do something like that even to my law mower. (I take good care of my lawn mower)
I hope you were just kidding and not following any of that guys advice.
You would trash the valve and the seat and probably the guide prying around a valve like that. A bent valve can be replace, but if you stick a screwdriver under it and start bending stuff you will trash the seat and now you need to spend a bunch more money having the seat ground out and replaced.

Im sure you just thought it was funny.

Bob

p.s. Ill send you that link when I get home from WI. Sunday I think.

 

[2000StreetRod]

3 angle valve seats

According to my GM V-6 rebuilding book modern valve seats are typically ground at an angle one degree different than the valve face to ensure a good seal. Then the seats are cut at 3 angles to ensure adequate flow around the valves. Lapping the valves destroys the interference edge achieved with the 3 angle cut and is not recommended.

If your valve was bent due to contacting the piston then the seat is not necessarily damaged. A new valve should come with the proper angle on the face to result in an interference edge with the seat. I think the main concern is if the bending of the stem damaged the guide. On the GM V-6 if the valve guide is damaged a machine shop must ream out the guide and then install a bronze-silicon insert. Valve guides are usually very durable.