MY trucks issues

[DarkFox1]

ok, to stop unintentionally getting threads off topic.. I decided, by suggestion, to start my own here..

I want to beleive in this trucks capabiltiy lol, I really do..

heres my ODB scan and some dyno runs

and my dyno runs... I'll list the best/worst and then the A/F ratio to conserve space.

worst ^

best ^

A/F ^


now as yall know.. avg 0-60 12 sec. best 0-60 time in recent years 10 sec. 2nd 4R70W in what is now just over 70,300 miles. Oil changes done regularly, I try to take real good care of it...

stainless steel grille guard, chrome plated aluminum 15x7s, flowmaster 50 dual in/out 2" aluminized catback with kkm filter 5.0L with the 98+ specs, so it should have around 215 at the flex.. GT-40P heads I run 87 octane, and have OEM plugs/wires but not originals these were changed maybe 40k ago.. tranny filter/fluid are all nominal and maintained

I could list another page of what its doing that I find odd.. but for my 1st post of this thread I thikn this is long enough thanks!!

 

[SaleenEXP]

lol, ok, I know you and I have gone over this stuff with you, along with Aldive and Alec ect.

So you probably aready know what I'm gonna say.

1) The obd scan I'm not sure on how to exactly read unfortunatley but I'm sure somebody else knows what it means.

2)I know I and blk mk8 already talked to you about how low the dyno run was, the hp and tq are way off, especially considering you have an intake and exhaust.

I think blk mk8 and bill dynoed the troll at around 181 rwhp when completley stock. And that one kid I told you about dynoed in that range when stock also, the 5.0 with g-40p heads should put out about 230 ft-lbs of rw-torque when stock.

Somethings fishy if it's not putting out at least that with your mods.

And the 143rwhp run is wack, normally the 1st baseline run is off/lower then the rest of the runs, but not off that much

and again you know my times from the track and g-tec,
0-60 in 8.2 seconds and the quarter at 16.2 at 84-85 mph.

Hopefully we'll all get the lemmoneer running correctly

 

[aldive]

The A/F ratio is rather lean.

 

[DarkFox1]

lean? I was under the impression it was a bit on the rich side, I dont relal yknow how to read the charts, but whenever you're hard on it. you get a smell similar to that of sulfer.. a backpressure test yeilds that the cats are "wide open" and do not need addressing.

Ford.. (suprise!!) said this was a normal smell and was done to "prevent the engine from blowing up" sometimes I wonder how much bullsh!t I'm going to be fed until I'm full of it myself

 

[james t]

that is not a normal smell, and it wont keep your truck from blowing up(WTF-first time i heard that one.)

there are 2 types of exhaust smells that invade the interior...

1- sulpher-rotten egg smell. this is the smell of a cat going bad. i dont care what anyone says, this is just how it is. it is scientific proven fact.

2- rich/grandpa's 75 impala smell. this is when your vehicle is running rich. smells like an older carbed vehicle, you know, like grandpa's 75 impala with the bad Q-jet.

i still believe you have several small problems. tranny is the main one. as i have said before, a slipping tranny does not neccessarily slip all of the time... nor does it allways slip at every rpm...

 

[Alec]

Also, the dyno runs don't go through the full RPM band, and thus don't show an accurate picture. IMO the dyno run should've been done in 2nd gear from as low as possible to redline.

I think the A/F is fine.

 

[DarkFox1]

yea I contacted ford the very 1st time the truck did that smell and thats the response I got.. sounds stupid to me.. the guy told me ford itentionally dumps max fuel into the system at w0t to "keep the engine from blowing up" from being too lean.. I heard similar from a local performance shop who speicalised in mustangs, saying the Explorer, being a "Family vehicle" did not have programming beyond 4000 rpm and automatically defaults to maximum fuel in the a/f mixture.. to "prevent damage"

transmission.... where to start lol

I can't even start.. all I can say is.. sometimes the truck feels like its twice as heavy as other times.. sometimes it will do this mid drive.. just the other day I stopped at a redlight.. and when I took off again.. ym truck felt like it weighed 5000 pounds more than it did when I stopped. This continued.. letting off the gas would drop the speedometer 5mph almost instalty on a level surface with no brakes. and this was in cold weather so it was idling high.

Similarly, often times it wants to hesitate in the low end, or get no response at all... more times than not.. when the truck tries to accelerate 1st and 2nd gear feel like springs.. tightening more and more as the rpm climbs.. after this process the gear ends in a hard more than firm **** and repeats. At the top of each gear there feels like there is little to no seat of the pants acceleration. 3k gets my side mirror lined up with the front bumper of an avg driver in the mornings.. and coming home ( after they're getting off work) it puts my front bumper at their rear bumper.

I remember you saying that alec, but if I want another run its going to cost me another $100.. he says he can't give me a good run because the fuel governor kicks in.. it hit him 2 out of the 4 runs at about 106 mph... I dont recall the exact procedure he did, but I tihnk he was just in drive.

Hes the only dyno within 100 miles that I know of. Dynojet floor model, not exactly sure the model itself.

 

[aldive]

Take a look at the A/F ratio on this dyno run....

 

[Alec]

The computer will dump in excess fuel at WOT, so a rich smell is normal at WOT. A rich smell is also normal when the truck is cold and the O2 sensors are still warming up. However, neither should be excessive on a mostly stock vehicle.

As for the dyno, we had no problems sticking mine in "2" and going from 2000 to 5500 RPM. You should not hit the governor until redline in 2nd, and should be able to start off normally from idle.

 

[Alec]

Hmmmm Aldive, I actually think you're correct (did I just say that, lol )

I think around 14.5 is proper stoichiometric ratio for A/F. However, 13 isn't too lean.

 

[DarkFox1]

before/after apten? looks like some nice results whatever they did..

ok so when it says something like 17.5 as mine does.. thats what? 17.5 parts air to 1 part fuel?

looks like the one you posted there says something along the lines of 15

 

[aldive]

Ideally you want to run at 14.7 on a basically stock motor.

 

[aldive]

Something is strange about that dyno test... the graph says A/F is barely over 13 whereas the text says 17.5.

????????????????????

 

[james t]

... and in the mid 13's for power. this is one of the ways a chip gives you more hp, it adjusts the fuel air ratio from the "ultimate economy" 14.7 to the mid 13's.

i dont understand your dyno fuel/air chart... its says 17's at the top, yet it shows a constant 12.8-13.0 on the graph... right around 13 (or a little less) is were it should be at wide open throttle. and yes, the fuel air ratio means this:

14.7= 14.7 parts air per 1 part fuel.

BTW, if you were running in the 17's, you would have proly burned a hole in a piston by now...

 

[DarkFox1]

you know.. good point.. I dont know whats up with that.. uuuh I dont have an answer for that.. hafta ask the guy that did the dyno lol

 

[DarkFox1]

probablly just an error in the program.. I'd trust the line more than the numbers.. the other sheets seem to be about right..

surley the kkm and catback didn't reduce my HP?

 

[aldive]

Help me remember.... I thought when you first had it dynoed, the HP numbers came back normal?????????????????

 

[DarkFox1]

this is the only dynoing that has been done.. both the guy at the shop and some people on here told me these #s were "where they should be" and "about right"

 

[aldive]

I thought you had posted something like 170rwho back then. Can you post a link to that thread?

 

[DarkFox1]

that is 170 RWHP right there.. 170.2 was the peak, I can try to find it