Need procedure to Replace 4WD Control Module '02 Sport

[Wharf-Creek]

Hello group,

I am the new owner of an older Ford Explorer Sport.....2002 w/ 125K miles. I acquired this truck from a neighbor after sitting in his driveway for the past year. I've had a number of problems to resolve, from electrical issues with the doors and locks, to wheel bearings and broken sway bar links. I'm finally driving the truck....and I still have two HUGE problems; one being a vibration at 40 and again at 70....and the other being the lack of 4WD. In reading through other posts on this and other forums.....I've pretty much concluded that the 4 Wheel Drive Control Module is most likely the culprit....and I've purchased a new one to attempt repair. However, the replacement of this unit is not as easy as I was hoping it would be. All the posts I read said things like: "...it's up behind the glove box...". Well....true that....but I've got the glove box off, pulled the air-bag module....and I still can't get at the darn thing. I did manage to pull two screw off of it.....but it's still locked tight to the top of the heater box. What now? Do I have to pull the whole dash off the truck, or pull the heater box out, or what? I need some help here!! And, if anyone has any ideas about that vibration....I'd really appreciate that info as well. I've already had the tires balanced twice, pulled the drive shafts and checked U-joints and the one T/C C-V joint. No problems there!! I need to get these two items fixed...and soon....or you'll be able to see it on Ebay or Craigslist!! Many thanks, and Happy Holidays!! Tom D. Wharf_Creek at Hotmail dot com

 

[ncranchero]

Welcome to the forums!!!

You're confusing your modules. The '02 Sport is the same as the '02 Sport Trac in the module locations. That white colored box behind the air bag is the Security Module. The 4WD module is behind the right side kick panel. Since you have the air bag out you may as well get the door keypad code off of it if you don't already have it, and have a keypad.

4x4 Module Replacement

Key pad code location
Security Module w/door keypad code:

Have someone drive your vehicle slowly as you stand outside and watch for a bent axle shaft. A bent wheel would have showed up during the balancing. One of my axles is bent very slightly and the vibration comes and goes at different speeds.

 

[swetrid]

You probably have tires that are flat spotted from sitting that balancing will not cure. You can try roadforce balancong the tires and that will tell if it is tires or not.

 

[Wharf-Creek]

swetrid, thanks for your response. Just for the record, tires have been both dynamically balanced and Road Force balnced.....as well as carefully inspected. At this point, I'm pretty sure it's NOT tires. I thought about the flat-spot situation......I also 'store' an old Sebring convertible in my garage......my mom's old car. A '96 w/ only 35K and in near perfect condition. Anyway.....I know the symptoms of 'flat-spot' vibrations.......and they don't included a 'sweet-spot' at speeds like 40 mph and then again at 70. They usually just start vibrating as you get up to about 20 or 25....and then keep doing so as you increase speed. But......a good thought, and I thank you for the input.

ncranchero, I REALLY appreciate your help...I feel like an idiot, but I guess I deserve it. I read through about 10 different threads......I think most were from this web site, and they all indicated that the 4X4CM was 'behind the glove box'. So, needless to say, when I popped it back the glove box and looked back there.....I 'thought' I saw the module. Now I'm not sure what I really did see. It's next to the Security Module, slightly to the right....and tucked back a bit further. What ever it is, it also appears to have some large connectors on it.....and it's also slightly 'angled' where it sits up there. So, if you know what that thing is and can tell me, I'd appreciate that as well. It will only help me to get more familiar with this truck. As to the location and directions you provided......they're perfect, and as soon as I'm done with this thank-you note to you and swetrid, I'm off to the drive-way to go change the module out and re-install my air-bag. I only hope that my interpretation of all those threads is correct....and that the module does, in fact, fix my currently inop 4-wd.

Regarding the bent axle comment......I think that's a real possibility. This vibration has the 'feel' of being an out of balance drive shaft.....but that could also be similar to a bent axle-shaft up front as well. I did pull both drive shafts......and inspected U-joints and the one CV joint at the Transfer Case. I didn't see a problem worthy of making a change in them as related to this symptom. And.....I only had a few minutes on my buddy's lift.....so we just simply did a 'Remove, Inspect, & Replace'. I'd also mention that I didn't see any weld marks or anything that looked like a missing weight. In fact, there were still a few weights scattered about on both the shafts which, to me, looked to be 'factory original' and sufficient to have properly balanced the shaft.

So, regarding bent axles.......can you tell me just how far out of 'true' your was to have caused you problems? I have dial indicators......and I'll be able to make arrangements to get this thing back on a lift after the 1st of January...... But, I'm curious just how bad yours was, and if something like a .0010 run-out is considered 'acceptable' or trash, or what. Finale note: I found out 'after' I bought this thing that it was wrecked by my neighbor's then girl-friend......but was 'supposedly' fixed. Perhaps some body work was done but the axle may have been bent in the accident and not diagnosed or replaced? Who knows.....I guess I'll find out the hard way!

Anyway....thanks to both of you.........and now I'm off to the drive-way and 28 degrees of air-temp!! Oh what I wouldn't give for heat and space in my garage (Sebring is on one side, and 4 motorcycles are on the other side). I'll give an up-date after installation of 4X4CM is complete.

Regards,

Tom D.

 

[Wharf-Creek]

PS....I'm also going to copy those numbers for the remote access codes!! Many thanks for that as well. Do you know if a keyless entry module is available for this truck? I have only one key......and it's only good on the driver's door and ignition lock. It doesn't work on the passenger side......and as I said....I have no remote transmitter, which I'd REALLY like to have! Thanks again!! Tom D.

 

[ncranchero]

My bent axle is on the rear and is bent enough that you can see the slight wobble. Actually I have just been slack and not changed it out yet. I've put 7000 miles on this truck in 2 years due to having a company vehicle. I've never seen a front half-shaft axle bent. They will come apart at the joints before they bend, IMO. If the lift you have access to is a frame lift you can carefully "run" the vehicle in 2-wheel & in 4-wheel to look for problem areas. The drive shaft would be another item that could be bent. The fact that you said it had been wrecked, depending on how, may very well point to a rear axle shaft being bent. They're amazingly easy to bend when struck from the side. I repair some salvage vehicles and have replaced quite a few bent rear axle shafts.

Turn your Ign switch from OFF to ON 8 times and your doors should cycle the locks. That means it has entered the programming mode for your fobs, which you can get off of eBay, local salvage yards, etc. You do not have to buy them new from the dealership!!!

Let us know how it goes !

 

[Wharf-Creek]

Hello Steve,

Well......good news is that the part is installed properly and the car is back together. The bad news is that it didn't change anything! Too bad too, as we're expecting about 4 to 6 inches of snow in the next 12 to 18 hours. I still have no 4WD lights coming on in the dash when the car is started....which I understand should illuminate momentarily then extinguish themselves. Also, the switch on the bezel.....that should have lights on it for 2WD 4Hi and 4low.....those lights do nothing either. So.....what now? Is it possible that the switch itself is the culprit? How about a ground or fuse? I have no manual for this car......so this web site is about the only tech source I have! And, believe me when I tell you......I'm one who REALLY appreciates the assistance given by people who moderate and tend these web sites. And....member help is also always appreciated. I do a lot on Harley Davidson sites.....and also on a few Tube Amplifier Audio web sites.....and get a LOT of help from all over the world. I do my best to help others as well......not all a one-way street with me. But.....usually there are a hundred other experts on line who know far more than I do.

Anyway.....so you think possibly a bent rear axle could be the culprit? I'll have to check that as well. I'm leaving Maryland for Michigan in the morning.....taking my other vehicle as this one would literally vibrate me to sleep in 10 hours of driving. But, I'll be returning on Friday....and hopefully the following week I'll be able to schedule some lift-time at my buddy's house. But, between now and then.....If you or anyone else has any other ideas about the non-functional 4WD.....I'd really appreciate the input.

Many thanks......and Happy New Year!!

Tom D.

 

[ncranchero]

Tom, PM me your email address and I'll send you some stuff to go over.

Bent rear axle is just one possibility.

You can get the Owners Manual online HERE .

Your 4x4 switch will have lights to illuminate the switch positions but that's all.
Check all of these fuses:
BJB fuse 13 (20A).
CJB fuse 35 (15A).
CJB fuse 10 (7.5A).

Be careful on your trip!

 

[Wharf-Creek]

Well, nothing is more embarrassing than owing up to a 'rookie' mistake.....but I gotta do it! I was 99.9% sure that I had all the fuses properly checked. I pulled them all and thought I had properly checked 'em for blown elements. But, in looking them over again about 1/2 hour ago (in 25 degrees at 10:45 pm in the driveway w/ about a 30 mph wind blowing).....I found cavity 15 to have a 15 amp blown fuse. I replaced it, turned on the ignition, and low and behold, the 4WD lights on the dash triggered and flashed back off after a split second. I started the truck, turned the bezel switch to 4WD High.....and the new 4X4CM clicked down in the kick panel....the light in the dash came on......and as far as I can tell.......I'VE GOT 4 WHEEL DRIVE!! I'm delighted!! I feel like a dolt....and I may have spent $133 un-necessarily....but.....ya know....to have this finally working and NOT to have any more problems......I'll take it!! As easy as it was to change the 4X4CM I may just put the old one back in and see if it blows the fuse. It would be nice to know the cause of that failure. But....I may just leave it as-is and hope for the best. Now......if I can fix that vibration at 40 mph....I'll have a nice truck!! I purchased some used tires off another Explorer.....some Continentals with about 20K miles left on 'em. I'm going to swap out the Michelins....and just see if that changes anything. The 4 Contis were only $75 from Craigslist......and I think I can get 'em mounted and balanced for about $15 each.....so.....another good diagnostic effort to rule out the possibility of the Michelins being 'flatted out' from sitting for a year on the hot asphalt. Anyway, I'm glad to report that of about 19 issues this 'used' truck had when I purchased it.....I'm down to basically 1....the vibration! By the way.... thanks to ncranchero for the tip on the Security Module!! My door key code is now working ..... and I can enter the car from that. Now I guess all I have to do is find a suitable key fob and I'll be good to go there. I've noted that my one key will NOT open the passenger door lock....and it is VERY stubborn on the driver's side as well. It may not be an original key.....so if anyone has a clue as to where I can find the OEM Key Code and go have a Ford Dealer cut me a new key....that too would be wonderful!! Thanks guy!! I REALLY appreciate the help!! Happy new Year..... Tom D.

 

[ncranchero]

Hard to get incentive to go outside in 25 degree weather to work on anything, IMO. ( 23 degrees w/6" of snow here right now We all overlook the obvious at some point or another. Stuff happens!
Your Ford dealer can look up your key cut code by VIN and cut it for you, as well as program it to your truck. You will need proof of ownership, title/registration. (Keys here were $21 each and $41 to program them to the vehicle) Once you have the "good cut" and two programmed keys you can buy more chipped blanks off of e-Bay, have the hardware cut it and program up to two spares yourself. Keep at least three keys so if you lose one you don't have to pay the dealership to do the programming. Buy only FORD branded or Strattec blanks, others have been known to FUBAR your PATS. I posted a list of fob applications that will operate your remote locks HERE in the second post. The list is long so you should find one easily at a good price.

Ford had an awful problem with the Conti's so you may/may not have gotten someone else's tire troubles.