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Parking Brakes of Doom: Inspection Tomorrow

Could you adjust them too tight, to the point of dragging, drive directly to the inspection station, hopefully pass the test, then loosen them off?

Does the pedal feel firm when you press it?

Tried adjusting them uber tight, but it still drags when the accelerator is pressed.

Yes, pedal is very firm, seems almost TOO tight. The cable is being pulled, going from taught to very tight.
 



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Well, how do the insides of your rotor hat look? At work, we have had forklift drums get "glazed", the brake pedal is firm, but no brakes. The mechanic removes the drums, uses a scuff pad to rough up the sufrace, replaces the shoes and all is well. A brake shop could possibly turn your rear rotors and machine the e-brake contact surface. :dunno:

A while back I got some rotors from a member here, they had a coat of surface rust, I turned the surfaces the caliper touches, but not the insides. My ebrake works better than ever now, but I rarely ever use it.
 






Yes Aaron, the rotors should actually drag just a hair to start. When you adjust them, the rotor should not slide on with no resistance, you should be able to feel it touch the pads as it goes on, a slight drag. Don't worry about that proper slight drag, the pads are supposed to ride directly next to the rotor. Driving the truck will immediately remove any interference, a few thousandths of material etc.

The parking brake pedal will feel very good right after the adjustment, and grab much higher up then after weeks of use. If you hadn't adjusted them enough to get that slight dragging, you should be able to pass the inspection that way. Good luck,
 






Evan,

I've heard of "glazing" before, but never experienced it. I'll try hitting the whole works with 600 grit sandpaper. Worst case, I have "lifetime warranties" on the rotors and I'll get new ones from Autozone. I looked at my records and replaced the shoes and rotors exactly 2 years ago to the week!
 






If you hadn't adjusted them enough to get that slight dragging, you should be able to pass the inspection that way. Good luck,

I had them adjusted so that I couldn't move the star wheels anymore, and I couldn't spin the wheel by hand! I think there are other things at play here.
 












Yes, if when tight it still isn't holding well, change the pads at least. They are only $20 new, do turn the rotor surfaces if they look slick or too dark.
 






2) Driver's rear brake cable was frozen, so I replaced all 4 cables.

Sounds like the shoe and rotor may have been cooked and glazed. Check that out. Glazed pad = low static /dynamic coefficient of friction(like a tire on ice). In the worst case, You may end up replacing shoes and rotors. Sandpaper may help though.

Also, I've noticed on mine a 'hysteresis' effect when using the e-brake. If I release the brake without my foot on the pedal, the brake will loose much of its tension. If I support the pedal along as it comes up slowly, it will apply with proper force. I believe this has something to do with the spring tensioner mechanism. THe 98+ mechanism may not have this issue.
 






More parking brake fun

I also replaced the shoes last year....

So I need an inspection soon and proceed to test the parking brake like they would at the station. I wrote in the last post that the cable would behave strangely if released suddenly vs slowly. I've been using the brake all year but it was never tested under acceleration. It was barely passable under mild acceleration, so I cranked the left adjuster a bit and it seemed to hold well. Took a drive around, and tested the parking brake again and to find it is completely gone :(. Nothing. I even maxed out the adjuster and still no brakes.

Before pulling the rotors, I looked at the actuators and the right one was stuck in the middle. I needed a screwdriver to set it back in position.

Now the rotors come off(nice and easy thanks to anti-seize!). The right shoes are pretty much completely gone. The cable stuck and held the shoes against the rotors. I wasn't able to rotate the tires by hand and had to turn the adjuster to get the rotor off. The left shoes were still hot because of that final adjustment, which was compensating for a malfunctioning right parking brake.

Failure mode (Keep this in mind when you install your new right cables):
The cable chafed against the leaf spring, exposing the inner metal tubing. The internal sheath corroded and pretty much locked the cable. All the stock fasteners were intact, but allowing contact with the leaf spring. Be sure to protect this area when you install the cable. The left cable is intact, smooth, and I see no reason to change it.

The after market right cables also gave me issues. The Ford cable is $57 online, I would rather not spend that because I had to replace the shoes. (The left Ford cable is $20 and with shipping the same price at a local dealer. I would strongly suggest the Ford left cable if you need to replace it.)

The cable from Advance is made by Tru-Torque (aka Dorman) in China, and has an exposed stranded metal cable (the stock has a plastic coating on the internal cable). Otherwise the cable looks like quality. That cable is probably OK in Arizona, but would probably rust in a few months here. It is a $45 unit that can be PMed to the Napa $20 one.

The NAPA unit is ~$20, and I believe is made in the USA by Raybestos. It has a plastic sheath but required a bit of fabrication with a dremel for the hook to fit in the eyelet. Seems they left a spur or made it a mm too narrow. Also, the clip that holds it on the backing plate looked a bit flimsy to me since the stock one had a collar that prevents it from slipping off. On further inspection though there are internal spurs that bite into the unit as its inserted into the retainer. I will verify that this can retain the spring tension needed to release the parking brake. The napa unit has sliding sections of tube along the cable. These are perfect to protect the cable from interference with the leaf spring.
 






followup

The NAPA/raybestos cable is garbage, no wonder why its under $20 after my AAA discount. They pulled another one and its the same deal. The clipped circular retainer slips right off under light spring tension and rendering the release mechanism useless. They were supposed to machine a collar around the rim. The spring looks flimsy too. So much for made in the USA :(

Guess I'll use the Advance Dorman/Tru-Toruqe. I'll lube it up with lots of grease and anti seize. I was told that if the brakes are used often there shouldn't be issues with cable corrosion for many years.

Moral of the story - aftermarket is buyer beware. $70 -$80 for a cable is a bit steep though.....
 






It has a plastic sheath but required a bit of fabrication with a dremel for the hook to fit in the eyelet. Seems they left a spur or made it a mm too narrow.

Had the same problem with both my L & R rear cables.
 






HELP. About to throw in the towel on this one...

Ok, I'm not one to give up, but now I'm really stumped. Help.

So I just finished replacing the shoes and rotors - so now everything in the parking brake system has been replaced in the last month.

Here's the kicker - she'll hold the truck reved to about 1400rpm in reverse, but she'll still creep at idle in forward. Too bad they test in forward.

Also, after I try slamming on the brake in the driveway and then releasing a few times, I seem to be able to get a few more notches on each adjuster.

Any thoughts short of pulling a few spark plugs to depower the ol V8?
 






Had the same problem with both my L & R rear cables.
Did you buy the Raybestos cable? Were there also problems with the spring retainer/collar at the brake bracket?

I'm having second thoughts about using the exposed cable, for concern about internal rust. My NAPA has a machine shop and I will find out if maybe they could crimp or weld the retainer onto the cable.

I don't want to do this job again!
 






Ok, I'm not one to give up, but now I'm really stumped. Help.

So I just finished replacing the shoes and rotors - so now everything in the parking brake system has been replaced in the last month.

Here's the kicker - she'll hold the truck reved to about 1400rpm in reverse, but she'll still creep at idle in forward. Too bad they test in forward.

Also, after I try slamming on the brake in the driveway and then releasing a few times, I seem to be able to get a few more notches on each adjuster.

Any thoughts short of pulling a few spark plugs to depower the ol V8?

What brand of brake shoes did you buy? This time I got Bendix, I had them price match NAPA. How do your drums look? If they are shiny they may need some machining.

Heh..try riding the pedal up slowly instead of releasing it suddenly. There was a (recall) TSB for the 93 or 94 ex that uses a VERY similar mechanism. They ended up putting in some wedge that defeated the self adjusting mechanism.
 






Also, after I try slamming on the brake in the driveway and then releasing a few times, I seem to be able to get a few more notches on each adjuster.

Uh oh..is your spring forcing the cable out of the retainer????
 






What brand of brake shoes did you buy? This time I got Bendix, I had them price match NAPA. How do your drums look? If they are shiny they may need some machining.

Bought Autozone shoes with the Lifetime Warranty. Figured I'll need it! The shoes are stamped "Morse 99E" if that's any clue who made them. Rotors are new, so obviously shiny. The surface looked "scuffed up/honed" and I thoroughly cleaned them with brake cleaner before installation.
 












Please explain...

If you bought a raybesots cable (suspect because you had to dremel the eyelet), the round clip that secures the cable into the brake backing plate is not really attached to the cable body. This will cause the spring tension to push on the brake hook (which is stationary) and the cable end. The small diameter spring will literally push the cable out of the round retainer tube. Tug on your black cable when the brakes are released and see if you can slide it out.

WHen the brakes are actuated, the cable will look like it is functioning since everything is pulled taught.
 






Seems like it's attached, as I get about 3/4" of travel on the actuating lever that the cable ring attaches too...
 



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Seems like it's attached, as I get about 3/4" of travel on the actuating lever that the cable ring attaches too...

When the brake is released, can you see the bottom of the spring? Or is the spring partially concealed in a tube. If this design were to work, there would be one coil covered by the tube. What about if you pull on the cable housing when released? If you have this issue you will feel considerable movement.

If you have this problem the brake may or may not release fully, since it depends on spring tension. Application will be fine.

I saw this problem on 4 raybestos cables in different NAPA stores. This problem may not even apply in your case, but it has to be ruled out..
 






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