Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by RegionThr33, December 8, 2017.
Example of the relocated steering shaft.
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Very impressive work. I have to say that a carb style intake and elbow sure does look appealing for ease of access to everything.
No intake In the way all the time, no egr tube to deal with, easy to get at the injectors and wiring as required... love it.
How did you modify the cruise and throttle cables? your using a GM tps that came with the throttle body? I'm guessing you used a elbow made for the lsx so you didn't have to make an adapter plate? How about dealing with the iac valve? I see it in the pictures, but can't see how you dealt with it.
Great to see someone new here with new ideas.
Are those foose wheels? What size and offset? How much dd you lower it?
They are 20" Foose legends. Not exactly sure on the offset. It's the ones they sell for the mustang.
Thanks alot. I actually used the stock throttle cable (the cable itself). I replaced the outside covering with some air line and used compression fittings on the ends(firewall and cable bracket). I am using a GM tps. It's 3 wires just like the Ford unit. Just matched up some schematics and wired it up. I did have to clock it to get the voltage where it should be. The stock gm IAC can't really be wired up so I used the stock Explorer IAC. I just welded up an "adapter" to make it remote mount. Works the same way as stock. Pulls air into the intake from before the throttle plate.
Air in, air out. Remote mount IAC.
Throttle cable. The stock unit was too long and wouldn't work with the TB so I shortend the stock inner cable and just replaced the outer tubing with air line. Used a compression fitting on both ends. Did the same on the cruise control cable.
MMR sells a remote iac plate. Also I think the 4v 5.4 Navigator has a remote mounted iac factory.
I definitely love the creativity though, nothing like spending minimal money to make some sweet mods.
Are they all 8.5" width or 8.5" and 10"? Did you use any spacers? I like how they fit, I've been trying to get an idea on what offset works well. Looks like the 8.5" 5x4.5 only comes in 32mm offset. I'm torn between 18" or 20".
Is that a 2" drop or more?
Any issues with piston to valve clearance with that cam? Are you using 1.6 or 1.7 rockers? I was looking at some of the Comp XE cams, but considering having one ground on a 116 lobe separation for a wider torque band, smoother idle, and less overlap for CA emissions. Did you swap the cam with the engine in the truck? All the posts I see seem to suggest that it can't be done in the truck.
They're all 8.5". I'm more than 2". I'll measure once I get home
I'm running 1.6 ratio. I wasn't quite sure on clearance so I figured I would play it safe for now. I actually did swap it with the engine in the vehicle. You just have to cut a thin metal vertical "bar" that's in the middle of the radiator opening. Otherwise you can't pull the cam out. The hardest part was bending over the fender to swap out springs.
Finally getting somewhere with this fuel system. I also found a local 331stroker that I'm going to look into.
Bosch 42# 440cc injectors
Aeromotive fuel rails
Boost referenced regulator
044 380lph fuel pump
100micron pre filter
30micron post filter
-10 at tank to -06 to rails
-06 return line
And the box of parts grows. Exciting.
I'm sure your so called 'winter' is very short there so hopefully you can get busy soon.
The winds are high here, and the snow is blowing sideways.Not exactly weather to be working on a vehicle comfortably, unless you have a massive, insulated shop.
It would be neat if you could have a 302 based block on a stand, and the motor in your truck at the same time while you mock up the hot side piping.
Yes. Our winter has been very mild so far. I guess I'll be pulling the engine from the Explorer to stud the heads next week. The 331 stroker was sold before I got to the guys house. Pretty bummed about that but a 302 will meet my needs
yea, you could very well be saving yourself a ton of misery by sticking with your known good motor.
but whats the fun in that???
Good stuff, I love the creativity and thought that goes into that. Well thought out, keep at it.
Thanks everyone. I put in an order last night for rocker arms, catch can, -10 bulkhead fitting for the turbo drain, and valve covers. Next will be the rest of the turbo stuff and battery box. Hopefully I'll have everything I need within a week or two because I'm pulling the Engine at the end of the week.
I started the teardown on the 5.0 yesterday.
It'll be getting new gaskets, rockers, pushrods and studs soon. While I was working on it I did some quick measuring and realized just how small the Engine bay of an explorer is.
To get the turbo mounted in the Engine bay, I'll have to
1: relocate the battery (already planned that)
2: run an electric fan (that's fine)
3: run -16 an upper coolant line to avoid the downpipe.()
4: find a front induction scoop that is short enough for the small hood and wide enough to cover the downpipe.()
5: relocate the oil filter so crossover pipe from pass. side has clearance.
I realize now that I haven't explained the layout. Next post will be a very crude drawing.
Top view of the engine. The red line is the downpipe. It goes from the turbo, over the pass. side header and down to the exhaust. The green lines are the driver side header and crossover pipe from the pass side to driver side.
I'm sure it's easy to understand when you have such a masterpiece for reference. Lol
As simple as a turbo sounds, not not easy to find room for all that piping. It does look like a nice layout, with the hot side wrapped hopefully you wont have issues with stuff melting. Getting down pipes thru the frame rail beside the motor is soooo tight.
To externally mount the oil filter, remove the entire filter adapter, and change the block adapter threads. The Explorer uses a metric thread(there might be a metric block adapter(two THP ports)), and the normal 3/4-16 adapter is what most block adapters are made for).
Have you guys looked at using exhaust piping for the turbo down pipes, those are made in oval versions too, say a 3" oval pipe, might fit easier in some spaces?
Dang! What a great idea. Oval/flat exhaust pipe would probably work great. I'll definitely look into it. Appreciate it