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It wasnt the smartest idea. I was 17 at the time. And 19 the second time lol. And yes I know what "two layers means". 5% or doubled 5% on the side windows is way way easier to work with than the 5% on the windshield was. Must admit though...it looks badass BUT, for people reading...

This is my favourite 3rd gen explorer Ive ever seen!! ####ing amazing! You really cant comment at all on how dangerous it is without seeing it in person. As far as tint goes it greatly depends on the brand, and the actual vehicle itself. IE) visibility, interior color, amount of windows...

nice setup you have there. I really really like those doors above all else. Ive been looking for ideas to do with my doors and dont want to do the typical huge cone area setup with (8) 6.5s or something alone those lines. This single 12" looks killer to me. Perfect peak for music too. Im...

also......if ur serious about your sound...you want to run a component set.. which is the 6.5 mid with an external tweeter and come with their own small crossover for each side. Then run a small amp to them aswell. Doesnt have to be anything big...just 50 watts rms per side will do but ull...

just as with a woofer....your speakers will only perform as well as their install. with a woofer you need a nice proper box built. Same goes for your mids. You need something that resembles an enclosure for them...which in this case is the door itself. But you want to stiffen it up with as...

99.9% of the 6.5 speakers in the world will fit in the front no problem. I ran focal k2p's in the front of my truck and am running them again in the truck im building now. I used a 1 1/4" spacer/adapter to get them to fit. Theyre a very large 6.5 with just a hair over 3" of mounting depth...

never heard of it before but seems like a good idea. Where do you plan on mounting it tho? If it just plugs into the deck then are you planning on hiding it under the dash? If so then Id worry a bit about sufficient airflow to cool it. If ur gunna mount it else where then ull have to run...

use a trim removal tool to get the panel fasteners off or ull likely break them or bend them and have to buy more. Theyre a great investment. I use the pliers style

you definitely want to upgrade to a round speaker if ur serious about the sound. But adapters are super easily made or purchased.

why not mount the speakers in the stock location behind the stock grille? Rather than butchering a stock panel heres a focal k2p 6.5" mid...had to use a 1 1/4" space for it to fit. One of the beefiest 6.5s ull ever see.

theres no point in grounding the block to frame since all your grounds go to the negative batt terminal anyway. ground the body, motor, and frame right to the negative terminal with their own large gauge ground wire.

use this style battery terminal and put lug ends on each wire and youll be good to go. I think these are referred to as "wingnut terminals" or "marine terminals" they have em at walmart for cheap cheap. Your you could go this route :D COPPER!

not at all. as posted above id parallel everything and run a 0.67 ohm load. Get a good solid amp from a good company and itll run fine at that load. Also make sure your electrical system is up to par. -Big three upgraded to 1/0 -a beefy batt under the hood..preferrably a group 31 batt...

im estimating a 152.2 @ 49 hz on the TL at the dash. Not too shabby

not to take anything away from him but world finals these days have horrible turnouts compared to what they used to. To be an IASCA world champion you basically win by default if you showup in some classes lol Although he competes in MECA which is still pretty popular in some regions

you can never have too many grounds. If you're already grounded to the negative terminal upfront then you're not going to get a better ground than that. Id upgrade the ground on your headunit

no actually you have that backwards. a 4 ohm speaker is only 4 ohms when its NOT having a signal thru it. otherwise the heat in the coil, enclosure size, frequency being played etc. All will play a role in the impedence rise of the woofer. Its not uncommon for a 4 ohm speaker to rise to over...

the 8s will just be for midbass I assume. To round it all out. Ill be going the same route running some 8s or 10s for midbass upfront with my build. Tons of people out there have loud low end setups...then some will focus on their mids and highs after that but very very few people really...

if ur just running a single run of 1/0 then id go thru the firewall and thru the car..it should be easy if you run it in the right spot. with 4 runs or more id go under the truck i had 10 runs from the front to back in mine and went underneath and came up just behind the back seat. I used...

yup Zach knows what he's doing. He and I are in talks currently about building him a custom 9 1/2" aero that flares to over 14" for his 2 15s daily. Should work out nicely.

2 8" aeros in an explorer is enough port for a 160 at the dash on the TL. the problem is explorers with street style setups peak in the 48-52 hz range so you cant use a lot of port area or itll be way way too long to work properly. id be surprised if you even got 2 8s to work well actually.

if your building a wall you should definitely ditch the aeroports. and for the doors id use PA gear instead of crappy w0s...you wont get much from them. Make sure you have them amplified too whatever you build.

ya that woofer is crap...everything ma audio makes is crap

for a single sub setup youll probably be loudest with a single 12 if you really test. Because if you use a single 15 or 18 ur gunna be above the window line. 12s will allow you to try side or front firing the woofer. as for your enclosure...try as many different volumes and firing...

youll be fine with the rockford amp or with the memphis...the memphis is a better/cleaner amp and is a great deal for the price. make sure you get a good custom box for the woofers or you wont get any good results at all