Something's draining my Battery?

WJS · December 14, 2008

I know it's impossible to diagnos something from afar but...
I went to start my 2004 Ex today and the battery was dead. I used the wifes car for a jump and it started right up. I went and bought a new battery but I'm wondering if four years is all I can expect from a battery. I bought the vehicle over the summer but I'm pretty sure this is the original. I'm thinking something is draining the battery. What's the best way to diagnos what it could be. Thanks for any ideas.

Tbars4 · December 14, 2008

..:scratch:..4 years sounds about right for the life expectancy of your battery...Of the high end of batteries being sold, the warranty is usually 3yrs. for full replacement...

...If you are still concerned about the battery drain, you might want to read this...It has a lot of good info...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224016&highlight=severe+drain

Heavymentill · December 15, 2008

Parasitic Draw Test

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that’s not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

Steps
-Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
-Attach an ammeter(this measures amperage) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode. i.e. when you make the contact with the test light the cars computer systems "wake up" after a bit of time they will go to "sleep".
If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
-Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse.
-Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
-Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
-Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

NOTE: The original author listed this repair using a 12v test light. The best place for your test light is the trash. A test light doesnt measure voltage; it shows if enough voltage is present to light the lamp.

An ammeter meaures current (in amps), and that is what you are fighting against if you have a parasitic drain problem.

Tips
A parasitic drain is when an electrical device is using battery power when the car is closed, and the ignition key removed. Therefore, when doing this test make sure that the dome light, under hood light, trunk light, etc. are off.

Warnings
Don't forget to check inside cigarette lighter and power sockets. Sometimes coins can fall in and cause shorts.
Some after-market alarm systems may make this test too long or loud to be worth the effort. If that's the case, seek professional help.
In more and more models made after 2003 disconnecting the battery will reset the PCM requiring the modules to relearn. In certain cases this requires a factory scan tool. It is best to take such cars to either the dealer or a professional in auto electrical systems.

Things You'll NeedA digital multimeter or ammeter.
A fuse puller.
Any tools needed to access battery and fuse panel(s).
An owners' manual or maintenance manual showing electrical circuits.

WJS · December 15, 2008

Thanks for your help!!

xtoolmaker · December 15, 2008

Still have the original batt. in my 03, 5 years and 6 months, green light still glowing.I have had Interstate batts. last over 9 years in f-150, f-250 and a CJ-7 V8 Jeep.Sometimes you just get lucky.

WJS · December 15, 2008

We're in the middle of a nasty cold snap. Barley above zero during the day, sub zero at night. That's got to be tough on a battery.

shadowless127 · December 15, 2008

I stupidly left my sat radio on and my car charger for my phone plugged in over night, and when I went to start it the next morning it just BARELY had enough juice to turn over. It was also about 30degrees out.

Black92LX · December 17, 2008

WJS said:
We're in the middle of a nasty cold snap. Barley above zero during the day, sub zero at night. That's got to be tough on a battery.

if your battery was getting close to dying that will do it lickity split.

Just make sure to replace with a quality battery.
I used to be a believer in Optima Batteries. Now the only thing I believe in is their warranty.
I have replaced mine 3 times in 3 years. At least they were all free. Should get a battery tender though since it's on the fun vehicle that gets maybe 2,000 miles a year.

xtoolmaker · December 17, 2008

Yeah that Zero temp is what did my batteries in.Ok one day click click click the next morning.Don't have that prob. any more moved from Maryland to Florida.They say the heat kills them down here.We will see.

corkey · December 17, 2008

if the cold is a problem that seems to plague your batteries, do what i did,, go to an auto parts store and get a battery blanket, it is a kind of battery warmer that keeps the battery warm to give out the most amperage it can, i just hooked it into the plug for the block heater,, now i plug in both at once,,,

<<<<<<<<<< look at that , , and no starting problems,,

WJS · December 17, 2008

The new battery I bought seems to have taken care of it. No problems since. I guess I just got panicy thinking it was something major.Now if we could do something about the temps around here life would be good. Thanks again for all your replies.

CONALPATRICK · December 18, 2008

No interior lights after battery change?

After dealing with the ice stormin New England last week, we got back to normal and our battery died. Swapped it out and now there are no dash or interiior lights. Any clues? Thanks!

Brian

Tbars4 · December 18, 2008

...Conalpatrick...If you would have some better info, like the year and make of your vehicle, we could better help you...

...I am going to guess that you are driving a late model Explorer... :dunno:

...If you search on here for "Failsafe" or "Fail Safe", you should find your answer...

CONALPATRICK · December 26, 2008

RE: interior lights....

Thanks TBARS4. Found the problem. Mysteriously the dash light adjustment was turned all the way down and the overhead console switch was also off so no lights came on when the door was opened. Seems all better once I turned everything back on. :-/ The vehicle is an '05 Limited. Not sure why these would have been set differently but they seem to work now.

Cheers,

CP

Tbars4 · December 26, 2008

...Be sure to add your info next to your name..

...Congrats on this being an easy fix for you...:biggthump....These things usually happen when you go to the car wash, loan your vehicle out, or the kids get a free moment in the vehicle...

ronwalt · January 18, 2015

battery drain on 98 explorer

Daughters car, having to jump start every day before work, after work, after school, etc. So battery is too low to crank within every 8 hrs. or less. But......for the last few days, up to now when I start trouble shooting everything has been fine. My test show battery good at 12.6 volts, alt. good running at 14.3 volts but battery drain test shows a .25 amp (250mA) drain. Further research says that 250 mA drain may kill a batt. in about a week, not a day. Remember though, the dead batt. issue hasn't popped up in a few days. I pulled fuses until I found the one that brought the drain to about 0.001... a 7.5 amp fuse that controls dome lights, door chimes, radio, etc. I disconnected the aftermarket radio with the fuse in and no change in the .25 amp draw. All of the dome lights go off with doors closed. (amp draw goes to 3.5 with door open, back to .25 with door closed.) My question is what else should at look at for amp draw? Car is full power also; windows, locks, seat, etc. One other thing...where the hell is the door open / closed switch on this car??? That needs to be overrode to do the drain test since you cant access the fuse box with the door open. My only choice was to pull fuses until that one brought the draw from "door open 3.5 amp" to zero and then the amp draw would stay at zero with the door closed. I hope this led me to the right circuit with the amp draw. I also had a difficult time finding an accurate fuse box diagram on the net, none of the ones I found seemed to match mine with description? For instance, the initial fuse to stop the draw was a 60 amp. under hood in the power distribution box...online diagram said it was the ignition but the car would still start.?? Any help or info. is appreciated.
Thanks,
Ron

Travleslie81 · February 5, 2017

Ok I drive a 97 ford explore limited and I did a Parasitic draw test with a meter and test light and pulled fuses found nothing wrong with anything and stuck a test light on all the grounds it's all good and I put both negative and positive cables back on post and put the meter on the battery post all hooked up and the voltage stayed at 12.25 and when I opened the door it dropped to almost 12.11 and shut the door it went back up to 12.25

07gtman · February 5, 2017

NOTE: The original author listed this repair using a 12v test light. The best place for your test light is the trash. A test light doesnt measure voltage; it shows if enough voltage is present to light the lamp. you need an amp meter to do this test correctly..you want to see amps being drawn..

07gtman · February 5, 2017

Heavymentill said:
Parasitic Draw Test

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that’s not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

Steps
-Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
-Attach an ammeter(this measures amperage) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode. i.e. when you make the contact with the test light the cars computer systems "wake up" after a bit of time they will go to "sleep".
If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
-Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse.
-Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
-Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
-Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

NOTE: The original author listed this repair using a 12v test light. The best place for your test light is the trash. A test light doesnt measure voltage; it shows if enough voltage is present to light the lamp.

An ammeter meaures current (in amps), and that is what you are fighting against if you have a parasitic drain problem.

Tips
A parasitic drain is when an electrical device is using battery power when the car is closed, and the ignition key removed. Therefore, when doing this test make sure that the dome light, under hood light, trunk light, etc. are off.

Warnings
Don't forget to check inside cigarette lighter and power sockets. Sometimes coins can fall in and cause shorts.
Some after-market alarm systems may make this test too long or loud to be worth the effort. If that's the case, seek professional help.
In more and more models made after 2003 disconnecting the battery will reset the PCM requiring the modules to relearn. In certain cases this requires a factory scan tool. It is best to take such cars to either the dealer or a professional in auto electrical systems.

Things You'll NeedA digital multimeter or ammeter.
A fuse puller.
Any tools needed to access battery and fuse panel(s).
An owners' manual or maintenance manual showing electrical circuits.

Travleslie81 · February 5, 2017

I used a fluke meter and I found nothing on main fuses and fuses inside the car

Something's draining my Battery?

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Explorer Addict

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Moderator Emeritus

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Explorer Features

Explorer Features

Similar threads