How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

[MSAM]

We replaced the blend door actuator but we did something wrong because the heat works but not the AC. Do you have any idea of what could be wrong????? Anyway the heater is what we need at this time.......THANKS

 

[dumdumtexas]

Thank You !!!

This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how to. I used this post as a guide: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2378135&postcount=133. Even with this excellent post by ColdnFrosty, I was “flying blind”. That has lead us to this write up.

I purchased the Blend Door Actuator from my Ford Dealer. Cost was $70.00.

I recommend purchasing it at the dealer as others have had problems with the ones purchased at auto parts stores.

VIN is required to ensure you get the proper part.

This procedure involves cutting the dash. The part of the dash I cut out is not visible with the center console back in the Ex. Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR UNWANTED MODIFICATIONS YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR CUTTING YOUR DASHBOARD. ATTEMPT THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Be Sure To Check Out My Other Write-Ups:

How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel

How To: Install Signal Mirrors On 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Restore Faded, Yellowing Headlights

How To: Replace Multifunction Switch in 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Paint Rear Pillar Trim

How To: Replace 3rd Gen Ambient Air Temperature Sensor


Tools Required:

1. 7MM Socket
2. 8MM Socket
3. 10MM Socket
4. 10MM Deep Socket
5. Socket Driver Handle
6. Ratchet
7. Extension
8. 8MM Box-End Wrench
9. Utility Knife
10. Large Slotted Screwdriver
11. Butter Knife of Putty Knife

Parts Required:

1. Blend Door Actuator

2. Electrical Tape

Blend Door Actuator Replacement Detailed Instructions:

1. Remove Center Console Upper Half

1.a. Remove rubber mat

1.b. Remove screw under mat – 7MM socket required

1.c. Pry from rear and pull out console upper half

1.d. Disconnect front power point connector & extra power source connector (Cigarette Lighter?)

1.e. View with upper half removed

2. Remove Center Console Lower Half

2.a. Disconnect rear power point connector

2.b. Pop off rear power point connector with screwdriver – be careful not to damage connector

2.c. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

2.d. Remove 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

2.e. Remove 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

2.f. 4 top screws remain in place

2.g. Remove passenger side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

2.h. Remove passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

2.i. Remove driver side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

2.l. Remove driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

2.j. Pull passenger side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

2.k. Pull driver side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

2.l. Lift console lower half up and out of vehicle

3. Remove Lower Dash Panel

3.a. Remove 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

3.b. Pull from top

3.c. Clip may come off - No worries it can be put back when panel is reinstalled

3.d. View with panel removed

4. Remove Dashboard Brace

4.a. View of dashboard brace

4.a. Remove top screws – 10MM socket required

4.b. Remove bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back to reveal bottom nuts

4.c. View with brace removed

5. Remove Lower Heater Duct

5.a. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

5.b. Remove 2 screws – 8MM socket required

5.c. Wiggle duct out – it seems like it won’t come out but it will – pull front of it down

6. Remove Blend Door Actuator

6.a. Locate top screw - Arrow indicates area to look for top screw

6.b. View of top screw

6.c. Remove top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required - Picture shows how to access top screw

6.d. Locate bottom rear screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom rear screw

6.e. View of rear screw

6.f. Remove rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

6.g.1. Locate bottom front screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom front screw

6.g.2. Locate bottom front screw - Red dot indicates approximate area of bottom front screw

6.h. View of bottom front screw

The following steps involve cutting the dash. Some have removed the old actuator and replaced the new one without cutting the dash. I recommend trying without cutting the dash and only cut the dash if the actuator cannot be removed and replaced with the dash intact.

6.i. Cut dash – Utility knife required – WARNING ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK - Arrows indicate area of dash to be cut

6.j. View of cut dash with foam removed - Cut vinyl then remove foam with utility knife

6.k. Remove back plastic - Cut remaining plastic with utility knife - Red arrows indicate area to be cut - White arrow indicates bottom of Blend Door Actuator

6.l. View of cut dash to reveal bottom front screw

6.m. Remove bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

6.n. Wiggle out the blend door actuator - Red arrow indicates shaft - White arrows indicate direction to pull first: away from heater box - Yellow arrow indicates direction to wiggle Blend Door Actuator out

6.o. Turn actuator so shaft it facing upward

6.p. Disconnect blend door actuator - Arrow indicates tab to be press to release connector

7. Install New Blend Door Actuator

7.a. Connect actuator

7.b. Turn ignition key to run position

7.c. Rotate temp selector from cold to hot to verify operation of actuator – shaft should be moving

7.d. Rotate temp from hot to cold setting – shaft should be moving – leave temp set to cold

7.e. Wait for shaft to stop moving! Then turn ignition key to off and remove key - LEAVE TEMP SET TO COLD

7.f. Wiggle actuator into position – this takes some patience – be careful not to damage shaft - Shaft is keyed and will only go in one way - DO NOT FORCE SHAFT - Red arrows indicate direction to wiggle in Blend Door Actuator - White arrow indicates where shaft is inserted

7.g. Install bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

7.h. Install bottom rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading screw with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

7.i. Install top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required

7.j. Tape screw to socket

7.k. Start threading screw

7.l. Pull extension out

7.m. Reach up and remove socket - Arrows indicate where to reach up to remove socket from screw

7.n. Remove tape and replace socket

7.o. Tighten top screw – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

8. Test Blend Door Actuator

8.a. Start vehicle and let it reach normal operating temp

8.b. Set selector to vent (engine must be running since this operates on vacuum)

8.c. Temp setting should be on cold

8.d. Turn fan on

8.e. Test temp of airflow – it should be cold

8.f. Rotate temp setting all the way to hot

8.g. Test temp of airflow – it should be hot

8.h. Nice job! You are now ready for winter

8.i. Turn vehicle off

9. Reinstall Lower Heater Duct

9.a. Wiggle duct into place - Arrows indicate position to wiggle in duct

9.b. Install 2 screws – 8MM socket required

9.c. Push harness into place

10. Reinstall Dashboard Brace

10.a. Install 2 bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back for access

10.b. Install 2 top screws – 10MM socket required

10.c. View with brace reinstalled

11. Reinstall Lower Dash Panel

11.a. Set panel in place and push in top section

11.b. If clip fell off, then replace clip

11.c. Install 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

12. Reinstall Center Console Lower Half

12.a. Set console lower half back into place

12.b. Push console forward to close gap in lower duct

12.c. While pushing console forward, Install passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

12.d. Replace passenger side screw cover

12.e. While pushing console forward, Install driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

12.f. Replace driver side rear screw cover

12.g. Install 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

12.h. Install 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

12.i. Push passenger side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

12.j. Push driver side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

12.k. Push harness back into place

12.l. Push rear power point connector back into place

12.m. Connect rear power point

13. Reinstall Center Console Upper Half

13.a. Connect extra power source & front power point

13.b. Set console lower half back into position and push downward to snap into place

13.c. Install screw – 7MM socket required

13.d. Replace rubber matt

14. Blend Door Actuator Replacement is Complete!

14.a. View of cut dash with console installed - Arrows indicate area that was cut

14.b. You saved a bunch of cash

14.c. Grab a cold one

14.d. Enjoy the winter

:wavey: Thanks for looking :biggthump

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you !!!!!

What an outstanding post !!

First off my mechanical skills are about a three on a scale of ten. I read your post and thought hell I could do that. Then the more I thought about it I relized my skill level. I took my car to the shop and told them what i thought the problem was and they told me that I was right.

I then asked them how much it would run and when he said between six and seven hundred dollars. I told him I would be back later that week.

I looked at your post again and again and decided I would give it a try.

I pulled up your post and made copies and set out to increase my mechanical skills. Hell I didnt have much to loose.

YOU WERE SPOT ON !!!!

With the help of my son in-law we knocked it out in about two and a half hours !!!
I had it all torn out and was about to **** my pants. but with the help of your pics and discription WE DID IT !!!!

If you ever make it down to Texas you have some BAR-B-Q AND COLD BEER waiting on you.

THANKS AGAIN, not so dumdum in Texas

Semper Fidelis !!

 

[BigRondo]

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you !!!!!

What an outstanding post !!

First off my mechanical skills are about a three on a scale of ten. I read your post and thought hell I could do that. Then the more I thought about it I relized my skill level. I took my car to the shop and told them what i thought the problem was and they told me that I was right.

I then asked them how much it would run and when he said between six and seven hundred dollars. I told him I would be back later that week.

I looked at your post again and again and decided I would give it a try.

I pulled up your post and made copies and set out to increase my mechanical skills. Hell I didnt have much to loose.

YOU WERE SPOT ON !!!!

With the help of my son in-law we knocked it out in about two and a half hours !!!
I had it all torn out and was about to **** my pants. but with the help of your pics and discription WE DID IT !!!!

If you ever make it down to Texas you have some BAR-B-Q AND COLD BEER waiting on you.

THANKS AGAIN, not so dumdum in Texas

Semper Fidelis !!

You are welcome. Nice job!!

 

[3ponyshow]

A HUGE thanks to the OP for such a detailed and accurate write up. This article just saved me about $700, which is what the dealership quoted me. It cost me $68 on the part and a few hours of my time to do it myself. It's folks like you that provide these detailed write ups that make the internet worth while!

Thank you for your time and effort! Next time you're in Vegas, I'm buying you a beer!

 

[TW451]

Rhondo: Let me just say that you did a FANTASTIC job on doing this write up! I joined y'alls forum this morning just so I could give you a big "ATTA BOY". My wife's '04 has had the door flapping for over a month & wouldn't you know that it finally gave up the ghost on the coldest morning yet this year on her way to work Wednesday. I'm a pretty decent weekend mechanic & I had a good idea what the problem was, but didn't know the exact reason that caused it. After my procrastination finally led to it breaking the other day, I started searching last night & found your tech about it. Heck, I didn't even know this forum existed, lol!
Anyway, I just wanted to get on here & say thanks man. I confirmed online last night that our local dealer did have it in stock. After reading your take on it, it was a piece of cake. I picked up the part around noon & had it completely finished in a couple of hours. I didn't have to cut the dash any either. Just twisted & wiggled it some to get it back in.
Great job Rhondo. U-DA-MAN!

 

[BigRondo]

A HUGE thanks to the OP for such a detailed and accurate write up. This article just saved me about $700, which is what the dealership quoted me. It cost me $68 on the part and a few hours of my time to do it myself. It's folks like you that provide these detailed write ups that make the internet worth while!

Thank you for your time and effort! Next time you're in Vegas, I'm buying you a beer!

You're welcome. Just trying give back to the forum that has saved me a bunch of cash!

 

[BigRondo]

Rhondo: Let me just say that you did a FANTASTIC job on doing this write up! I joined y'alls forum this morning just so I could give you a big "ATTA BOY". My wife's '04 has had the door flapping for over a month & wouldn't you know that it finally gave up the ghost on the coldest morning yet this year on her way to work Wednesday. I'm a pretty decent weekend mechanic & I had a good idea what the problem was, but didn't know the exact reason that caused it. After my procrastination finally led to it breaking the other day, I started searching last night & found your tech about it. Heck, I didn't even know this forum existed, lol!
Anyway, I just wanted to get on here & say thanks man. I confirmed online last night that our local dealer did have it in stock. After reading your take on it, it was a piece of cake. I picked up the part around noon & had it completely finished in a couple of hours. I didn't have to cut the dash any either. Just twisted & wiggled it some to get it back in.
Great job Rhondo. U-DA-MAN!

Thank you. Glad to help.

 

[1tufgt]

Has anyone replaced the actuator for the rear air? I hear it clicking in the rear when I move the knob from cold to warm. Doesn't seem like it's in a hard location.

 

[BigRondo]

Has anyone replaced the actuator for the rear air? I hear it clicking in the rear when I move the knob from cold to warm. Doesn't seem like it's in a hard location.

There are a bunch of threads on here regarding the Rear BDA. I will check my shop manuals and post up some info for you.

Edit: I checked my shop manuals. The Rear Temperature Blend Door Actuator is behind the Left Rear Quarter Panel:

Once the panel is removed, you should have access to the actuator. I thought there was a thread on here with a good description on changing the rear actuator. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: I found the link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199644

 

[northside]

Big Rondo,
I replaced my blend actuator today using a Dorman 604-209 part. Thanks for you help it really helped. One thing, I got so frustated trying to reach those small screws on the actuator that I tore half of that foam piece (that you trimmed in your pictures) off with my hand. It looked ugly but afterwards i put it back and will cover it with matching tape. Total time 2 hrs 15 min. Heat is working!! Why Ford cover up the actuator like that, i don't know.

 

[BigRondo]

Big Rondo,
I replaced my blend actuator today using a Dorman 604-209 part. Thanks for you help it really helped. One thing, I got so frustated trying to reach those small screws on the actuator that I tore half of that foam piece (that you trimmed in your pictures) off with my hand. It looked ugly but afterwards i put it back and will cover it with matching tape. Total time 2 hrs 15 min. Heat is working!! Why Ford cover up the actuator like that, i don't know.

Sorry about the foam piece, but nice job on the fix. Glad I could help out.

 

[hunterjamison]

Excellent! Thank you! Love this forum! I have it apart now going to try to remove the actuator with out cutting the dash. I have found other forums directing me to cut it in 3-4 places. Thank god I found your writeup! 1 thing the troubles me though is the fan selector switch harness. Of the four connections the top left is slightly melted and for the last year I only had fan speeds 1,2,&3. 4 was the same velocity as 3. Any suggestions or past experiences that will help me solve and repair this problem whilst everything is apart? Gladly appreciated! Hoping to have it together by noon tomorrow. Also, just wondering if it is safe to turn on ignition and check actuator with all harnesses disconnected? The "other forum" told me to take out the instrument cluster...I'll know better in the future! Thanks!

 

[BigRondo]

Excellent! Thank you! Love this forum! I have it apart now going to try to remove the actuator with out cutting the dash. I have found other forums directing me to cut it in 3-4 places. Thank god I found your writeup! 1 thing the troubles me though is the fan selector switch harness. Of the four connections the top left is slightly melted and for the last year I only had fan speeds 1,2,&3. 4 was the same velocity as 3. Any suggestions or past experiences that will help me solve and repair this problem whilst everything is apart? Gladly appreciated! Hoping to have it together by noon tomorrow. Also, just wondering if it is safe to turn on ignition and check actuator with all harnesses disconnected? The "other forum" told me to take out the instrument cluster...I'll know better in the future! Thanks!

Please be more specific about the harnesses you have disconnected. The only harnesses disconnected in my instructions are those in the center console. If that's all you have disconnected, then it's OK.

As far as the fan switch goes, I had a similar issue. I had 1, 2, & 4. I replaced the switch and now have all 4 speeds. I got the radio trim bezel with all components attached on eBay for $14.00.

Good luck and feel free to ask any questions you may have.

 

[hunterjamison]

Success!

So another Props to Rondo!
I won't tell how many hours it took to accomplish this, but I must say it took a weekend. I put in 16 hours at work, explained to the curious neighbors what I was undertaking, and had some beers with them. I even asked my girlfriend to help spin the last screws in the console with me to see what skills she has. I was impressed.
Before I share my trials and tribulations I should profess gratitude for this forum and every expert I have found here. It stifles my mind to think my dad fixed, tuned, painted, replaced or improved his ride without this outlet for info. How could he do it? All input from friends and neighbors was totally bonko! How did we wade through the BS prior to Al Gore's inernet?
Anyway, to add to the pot I have some experiences to pass along.
First, don't google your Ford Explorer query. Log in here first and search.
I took out the radio ac/heater trim bezel, steering shroud & instrument cluster before finding this thread. I was prepared to cut the dash in 3 places for access. It still might make sense as the cuts were not structural & could not be seen when assembled, but even with my Dremel battery charged and at the ready I could never find the opportunity to divulge my desire to cut some plastic.
The most IMPORTANT technique I encountered which wasnt covered in the how to was the screw that comes in from the front of the Explorer in a recessed area, hard to find, 5 inches from the acuator below the column. I wish I had one of those red arrows! When this screw is removed you have acres of space to work in!
Another subject came up which I found interesting. Some cherub suggested taking the gear arm out of the failed actuator and testing the blend function itself with the gear door. Brilliant! But first! Test your existing actuator once it is removed by leaving it connected to harness and listen for the symptoms experienced beforehand. If it exhibits the same sound or behavior, you have it in the bag. Almost.
BEFORE taking the old one apart, test the new actuator. If it functions correctly, proceed with the dissection! I was surprised how slowly the gear arm turned when engaged, but it worked steadfast. When I used the dissected gear arm to manually manipulate the door mechanism I was dismayed at the weight of the door and the tension placed upon the pencil eraser-sized plastic gear to manuever it.
As could be expected, my local (150+ miles) dealerships did not have the part. AND it is back-ordered from Ford until Feb 27th! Dealer said they would order from another dealer- with shipping, $125. Six days later. So I called O'Reilly's Friday and started Saturday, finished Sunday, 20 minutes past noon.
The part I purchased for $51 (Dorman 604-209) was manufactured in Korea & will most likely fail while I still own the vehicle.
SO before it does, I would like to find a replacement metal gear to switch with the broken Nylon gear in my OE actuator.
Does anybody have any leads on such an obscure and intricate gear part such as this?
Again, thanks to Rondo for the knowlege and TIME he shared to help us all with this protracted fix that Ford won't acknowlege.

 

[Marlon65]

Hi to all, my Explorer 2004 at 106,500 KM has a problem with both RPM & speedometer arrows at the wrong starting points, see image below:

Anyway, this problem started only four days ago. When I was about to start the engine that early morning, it didn't crank. I realized the two-year old Motorcraft battery was totally dead. I checked my record, this battery was purchased in August 2009. But after installing a brandnew battery, everthing seems to be ok except for the RPM and speedometer arrows starting points. Both are working fine since both moves clockwise as before when it is up and running. My Explorer (here in the Middle East) normally has an warning beep alarm when it exceeds speeds at 120 KPH, but this time the beep comes at 145 KPH. Same case with the RPM arrow, it starts at 4:00 clock position but moves clockwise to 5:00 clock position at idle speed.

Any tip on how to fix this will be very much appreciated.

 

[BigRondo]

So another Props to Rondo!
I won't tell how many hours it took to accomplish this, but I must say it took a weekend. I put in 16 hours at work, explained to the curious neighbors what I was undertaking, and had some beers with them. I even asked my girlfriend to help spin the last screws in the console with me to see what skills she has. I was impressed.
Before I share my trials and tribulations I should profess gratitude for this forum and every expert I have found here. It stifles my mind to think my dad fixed, tuned, painted, replaced or improved his ride without this outlet for info. How could he do it? All input from friends and neighbors was totally bonko! How did we wade through the BS prior to Al Gore's inernet?
Anyway, to add to the pot I have some experiences to pass along.
First, don't google your Ford Explorer query. Log in here first and search.
I took out the radio ac/heater trim bezel, steering shroud & instrument cluster before finding this thread. I was prepared to cut the dash in 3 places for access. It still might make sense as the cuts were not structural & could not be seen when assembled, but even with my Dremel battery charged and at the ready I could never find the opportunity to divulge my desire to cut some plastic.
The most IMPORTANT technique I encountered which wasnt covered in the how to was the screw that comes in from the front of the Explorer in a recessed area, hard to find, 5 inches from the acuator below the column. I wish I had one of those red arrows! When this screw is removed you have acres of space to work in!
Another subject came up which I found interesting. Some cherub suggested taking the gear arm out of the failed actuator and testing the blend function itself with the gear door. Brilliant! But first! Test your existing actuator once it is removed by leaving it connected to harness and listen for the symptoms experienced beforehand. If it exhibits the same sound or behavior, you have it in the bag. Almost.
BEFORE taking the old one apart, test the new actuator. If it functions correctly, proceed with the dissection! I was surprised how slowly the gear arm turned when engaged, but it worked steadfast. When I used the dissected gear arm to manually manipulate the door mechanism I was dismayed at the weight of the door and the tension placed upon the pencil eraser-sized plastic gear to manuever it.
As could be expected, my local (150+ miles) dealerships did not have the part. AND it is back-ordered from Ford until Feb 27th! Dealer said they would order from another dealer- with shipping, $125. Six days later. So I called O'Reilly's Friday and started Saturday, finished Sunday, 20 minutes past noon.
The part I purchased for $51 (Dorman 604-209) was manufactured in Korea & will most likely fail while I still own the vehicle.
SO before it does, I would like to find a replacement metal gear to switch with the broken Nylon gear in my OE actuator.
Does anybody have any leads on such an obscure and intricate gear part such as this?
Again, thanks to Rondo for the knowlege and TIME he shared to help us all with this protracted fix that Ford won't acknowlege.

Thanks!!

 

[NHarris]

Preparing to do this myself on Friday. Mine decided it was going to stop working when its 25 degrees outside...

 

[BigRondo]

Preparing to do this myself on Friday. Mine decided it was going to stop working when its 25 degrees outside...

It's not that bad Nate. Grab a couple of beverages and have at it!

 

[NHarris]

Install went easy Rondo! Hardest part was weaving it out of the dash board. I was able to get it out without cutting, fortunately. Nice having heat again! Thanks for the write up

 

[BigRondo]

Install went easy Rondo! Hardest part was weaving it out of the dash board. I was able to get it out without cutting, fortunately. Nice having heat again! Thanks for the write up

Nice job Nate!! I told you it wasn't that bad.