supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · July 21, 2014

i bought a fuel rail kit on my way home (summit retail store in ohio, i recommend going to that place, crazy as hell!). so i am good there. i just got off the phone with a guy paul works with. he is thinking that it might not be enough to cool it. he is going to look into a few more things and get back to me later. btw, this is the place that they both work at

http://www.sandalefabrication.com/

want to see something neat? click on projects, go down to the pontiac, and find 1967 GTO and click on that. my buddy gord and i did the body on that car.

CDW6212R · July 21, 2014

vroomzoomboom said:
i bought a fuel rail kit on my way home (summit retail store in ohio, i recommend going to that place, crazy as hell!). so i am good there. i just got off the phone with a guy paul works with. he is thinking that it might not be enough to cool it. he is going to look into a few more things and get back to me later. btw, this is the place that they both work at

http://www.sandalefabrication.com/

want to see something neat? click on projects, go down to the pontiac, and find 1967 GTO and click on that. my buddy gord and i did the body on that car.

Very cool Tim, and I love those mufflers under that GTO.

BTW, did you buy the TFS fuel rails, I like those?

4pointslow · July 21, 2014

shop

Awesome shop!
Talk about heat exchangers on that GTO. Damn!

vroomzoomboom · July 21, 2014

CDW6212R said:
BTW, did you buy the TFS fuel rails, I like those?

yup

NICE59FORDF100 · July 29, 2014

Don't know why I have not been subscribed to this!

vroomzoomboom · July 29, 2014

NICE59FORDF100 said:
Don't know why I have not been subscribed to this!

BAD russ!! lol
im still waiting to hear what they can to for a innercooler for me. i also reworked the intake tube. stupid egr valve. it sits into it now about 3/4 to a inch. the only other two ways around it is angle the tube upwards, or use the taller mount. either of them is also a not so great problem solver as well because if i angle the tube upwards, it might rub the underside of the hood. that would be bad. if i use the taller mount, i chop the hood. for me, that would be worse.

4pointslow · July 29, 2014

egr

I don't exactly what your talking about with the egr and intake tube but I did notice your tube looks pretty rigid. Would something a little more flexible for the lower egr tube make things easier?

vroomzoomboom · July 29, 2014

i would say yes, but i want to keep everything in the stock location. also well as the one that TMH supply's is ridged i plan to make about 5 of these and sell them. that way who ever buys one wont have to do a ton of modifications to get everything to work

CDW6212R · July 30, 2014

4pointslow said:
I don't exactly what your talking about with the egr and intake tube but I did notice your tube looks pretty rigid. Would something a little more flexible for the lower egr tube make things easier?

How many EGR pipe choices are there which do not have the flexible ribbing in them? That's where the stock parts develop a leak over time.

I have one nearly new pipe left, and I hope to need three at some point later on. I might be able to make a rigid kind work for my Lincoln, since it uses normal Mustang headers(and I'd have to install the bung on them anyway).

vroomzoomboom · August 8, 2014

been waiting to hear back about the mount being able to be innercooled, and getting a tad frustrated about it as well (long story). also having to sit at home with nothing to do, kinda got board as well. i was thinking i will have a lot to do when the mount comes back, was trying to figure out what i could do in the mean time to speed things up, then i realized i could mock up the rail kit using the taller mount i have here.

andy was good enough for me to draw out how he did his, and went off it instead of the trickflow instructions

i had to get a few fittings for it and put it on. i also shimmed them out around a 1/4 inch on both sides. that way when i put the m112 mount on, i know it will clear because it is kinda tight. when i was trying to hook the kit up to the stock lines by the frame, they wouldnt go in. i had to sand the lip of the fitting trickflow supplies in their kit a little, then i slid in.

this has taken two days for me to do. its like work on it for 15 mins, then have to sit for 20 mins. that and its on the warm side here right now (not that i am complaining about that). i turned the key so the pump would come on, and cant find any leaks. i dont know if this is right or not but the fuel pressure gauge isnt reading anything right now. i guess it has to be running for that. i will try to finish it tomorrow, and set that.

Dono · August 9, 2014

No pressure reading after the fuel pump has run? That doesn't sound right. I'd expect to see pressure, then a slow leak down without the pump running.

vroomzoomboom · August 9, 2014

was talking to andy a little earlier, and i brought that up. he figures there is air trapped in the line. either a few key cycles with cure it, or a few cranks of the motor so the injectors pulse and all "should" be good.......i hope.....

vroomzoomboom · August 10, 2014

finished!

while i was at it, i decided to see if the valve covers i bought last year at all ford nationals would fit. i cant remember who, or where i was told that tall valve covers wouldnt clear the egr tube, or if it would clear a TMH one, so i pulled the tube and stock valve cover off, and put the trick flow valve covers i have on to see what would happen. well, they cleared. with not a hell of a lot of room, but they cleared

they came with its own oil filler tube, so i had to punch a hole in the drivers side for it, and put a pcv on the passengers cover.

to bad you can hardly see them

. oh well. that and my fancy take off parts collection is growing (oil cap that says 5.0L). i have some other stuff, but its a little to big to hang off the wall at the moment.

so now that i have seen close up pics, i will NEED to wash under the hood in the next few days lol

CDW6212R · August 10, 2014

Well done Tim, good work and great fit.

Turdle · August 10, 2014

Awesome! Can't wait for the driving report. :thumbsup:

Dono · August 10, 2014

Thanks Tim. The myth that you need a phenolic spacer is busted!
I'm clear for taller valve covers and 1.7 rockers.....future mod, after I get my truck driveable.

vroomzoomboom · August 10, 2014

now its throwing a high throttle sensor voltage code, and not wanting to shift right( that i know is part of the problem). it was also running rich (had the regulator at 42lbs at idle) so i have it down to 40 now, but the voltage code stumps me. i didnt change anything on the throttle body, why now?

4pointslow · August 10, 2014

High TP

The TPS could have failed at wot, or there may be an open ground(signal return), or short to voltage on the signal wire.
The code sets when the PCM see's a high voltage on the TPS signal wire.
If you have a guitar string and a multimeter you can back probe the TPS, there should be 5 volts (vref), 0 volts (signal return), and the signal wire with the variable voltage. I think you have the specs already for that circuit.
May just be a bad connection.
Hope you get it straight.

delexploder · August 10, 2014

Cant wait to hear it!

vroomzoomboom · August 10, 2014

The first thing I did John was grab my volt meter to see what voltage was (I remember you saying when I put the tb on, 5 volts and the computer thinks there is a short). The voltage never changed from when I put it on. That's what I don't understand. And it was running great. The only different thing anyplace near the tb is not there is a pcv in front of the tb.

supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

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