M90 rebuild (rudy)

Intercooler pump protection

I did some research on the Bosch intercooler pump before purchasing it. There were some reviews indicating early failure. I found that in the Jaguar and other luxury vehicle installations the pump was surrounded by insulation material to reduce vibration and noise transmitting to the passenger compartment. The insulation trapped the heat which reduced the life of the pump. I installed mine (with no insulation) under the air filter enclosure where there was access to ambient air.

I was surprised to read that the Varimax 410110 uses pulse width modulation (PWM) control. The cooling fins are probably to cool the power MOSFETs more than the pump. I suspect the Stewart-EMP pump is also PWM controlled and can be reprogrammed for higher flow probably at the expense of a shorter life. The PWM pumps probably have a programmable max duty cycle and have no means of monitoring coolant flow or pressure differential.
John, thanks for posting about the magnetic "clutch" in the Ford racing pump. I suspect it is identical to my Bosch pump. The clutch prevents the pump from overheating when there is too much restriction (differential pressure) in the cooling system. Lingenfelter's flow comparison chart indicates flow vs differential pressure.

I may try to measure the differential pressure of my system.

Thats the one graph I didnt see. From that it looks like the zl1 does out preform the varimax at higher psi.everything else I have read said they were the same..they are very similar in price but wonder what the differences in how they are made?

My second IC will be here Monday, once I get they stacked ill post a picture. Need to figure out this pump deal or else ill have to use the Bosch for now and I hate doing work twice.rather mount the pump I plan on using. Im mounting it and filter where old battery was, then making a heat shield type of box thing for the intake to come through

flow

Now I want to go run my pump with the cap on and off to see if mine sounds different. lol. I will do it this weekend. I also want a clear cap to see it, probably no one makes a clear one though. The only pressure in the system would be from heat expanding the coolant or a boost leak in the system. If we keep the temps down the pressure should stay down as well. It is not like it is cooling 2500 degree cylinder heads.
Here is a link to one of the lightning guys, you may have already seen it.
He went from Ford to Mezeire to Jabsco. If I added a third intercooler radiator I might have to move up to the Jabsco.lol. Maybe he will switch to the ZL1 pump and post results someday on that too. Great pictures on this link.
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/reliability/intercooler.htm

I think I just has to do with its a sealed system, not that its causing pressure. .just easier for the pump to suck if its a open system. .idk tho seen some that lowered the cap or installed a vent into the reserve tank and seemed to flow better, lowered iat..there has been no physical evidence to prove that tho..lol

I couldnt see adding a second or third heat exchanger helping unless the water temps in the radiator/heat exchanger is getting to hot.I know thats not my problem or would be my problem, it would be that the ic core cant absorb the heat fast enough or efficient enough. .like ive stated ive never had an issue but once I turn the boost up I want a better cooling ic system. The cores are where I need to start considering my water temps stay ambient for now..

Well some bad news for me..first I got all the ic crap outa the ex and ready to put into the ranger..right off the bat I noticed the lines are 3/8" for the IC not 1/2" like I thought..I have 1/2" line running from the heat exchanger to the pump.I used 3/4" to 1/2" reducer from pump to lines..then 1/2" to 3/8" reducer right at the IC..I cant believe the lines are 3/8" inside the IC would guess they need to be sense the OD of the IC is just a inch thick..that is just sooo small and is probably why my pump had SUCH a restriction on it!! Just SHOCKED it COOLED as well as it did or does..

Soo I ordered my ""Y"" fittings and double checked my HE.it has 1/2" NPT fitting on it so no reason to change it to put 3/4" on it...so basically its gonna be running 1/2" to pump..1/2" out to the "Y" fitting, there it will be split to two 3/8" lines feeding each IC..this should help the pump some..I wish my HE had 3/4 or 1" fittings and I could find a "Y" that reduces from 3/4" to two 3/8"...I could put 1/2" npt to 3/"4 hose on the HE but for the life of me I cant find a "Y" that reduces from 3/4 to two 3/8"s(IF ANYONE CAN FIND SOME PLEASE HELP) I think that way it would flow best even if the HE is 1/2" npt, I think having that as the restriction point would be better than all of the 1/2" hoses because shouldnt two 3/8" equal about 7/8 or close to a 3/4" line..

Then next bad news.this truck was in a accident in the front light.I knew that and knew it had a new bumper which I HAD to make fit..well pulled the lights and grill off to find the support for the header panel was bent 2-3" towards the passenger side.also the header panel is broke in many different spots..the radiator support, fender and frame doesnt not appear to be damaged. .so I cant mount my heat exchanger till I can get a new header panel and bend the drivers support back to place..HOPEFULLY it all goes back to where it needs to be.

I was planning on having all the IC crap mounted and the SC on by next weekend but looks like that has changed. My second IC hasn't even shipped yet and they also informed me my old IC was one from the first production run..meaning its not going to match the ""NEW"" design. .the new design is not much different he said tho.so I may have to pull my old IC apart and mill it to match the bottom side of the new IC.he said it should be a 1/4", only other change was a denser core which I could upgrade to if I wanted..

So the good news is..... I'm getting my epidermal steroid injections tomorrow for my back (2months later)and putting the exhaust on this weekend. .hopefully both those go good...WISH ME LUCK

O PS..if ANYONE can find 3/4" to two 3/8" reducers let me know..or better solution or idea

You are looking for aluminum, brass, or steel? Standard hose barb fittings right? I'll keep my eyes open while killing time on the net.


Could you use something like this:


Then use a 3/4 hose to 1/2 NPT adapter for the inlet and two 1/2 npt to 3/8 hose adapters for the outlets?

JoshT said:

You are looking for aluminum, brass, or steel? Standard hose barb fittings right? I'll keep my eyes open while killing time on the net.


Could you use something like this:


Then use a 3/4 hose to 1/2 NPT adapter for the inlet and two 1/2 npt to 3/8 hose adapters for the outlets?

Click to expand...

Doesnt matter the material really.

I could but wouldnt be really any help if its still 1/2" npt

Like these..the second one is what I have now...
http://www.aquacave.com/reducing-y-hose-barb-connectors.html

http://catalog.industrialspec.com/i...-accessories-clearance-inventory-2/qy-383812?

Got it, misunderstood what you were describing above. Will keep my eyes open.

EDIT: I don't know how much room you have to work with. Could you use a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 or 3/4 x 5/8 x 5/8 "Y" connector, then use two 3/4 x 3/8 or 5/8 x 3/8 straight reducers? Might not work for you, just something I thought of off the top of my head while browsing that first link.

So MAYBE I should have pulled the fittings off the HE because it appears 1/2" npt has same ID as 3/4" hose..sooo thats solved and wont be a restriction point..now nust to find a Y that reduces from 3/4" to 3/8 or hell I guess I can use a ""T"" if need be.it should restrict or mess up the flow right??

I wanna stay away from using multiple reducers(to many places to leak) or a heavy distribution block..I want the Y or T as close to the IC as possible, nothing to mount it to..

I'd compare that to a full 3/4 x 3/4 fitting or 3/4" hose. Sometime those adapter fittings are only bored out as large as the smaller ID.

JoshT said:

I'd compare that to a full 3/4 x 3/4 fitting or 3/4" hose. Sometime those adapter fittings are only bored out as large as the smaller ID.

Click to expand...

These are true 3/4" ID, same with my pump.the fittings I was using are slightly different and from home depot..I believe they go by OD or water hose or pex..that also was a problem im having..

Pex fittings

Pex fittings have the standard NPT size but smaller barb size.

I used the 1/2 inch size with my stock ATF cooler because the barb was about the same as the cooler port (3/8 inch).

2000StreetRod said:

Pex fittings have the standard NPT size but smaller barb size.
View attachment 79895
I used the 1/2 inch size with my stock ATF cooler because the barb was about the same as the cooler port (3/8 inch).

Click to expand...

Yea I wanna get ride of all that..I have the 1/2" npt to 3/4" hose fittings for the heat exchanger now (in my picture) what I need now is a 3/4" to two 3/8" hose "Y" or "T" reducer fitting like the links I posted. .

This is what im looking for.




And this is a sloppy drawing of how im going to plumb it, obviously the IC are gonna be stacked but I sure cant draw that..lol

can't find

I checked FastFittings.com and McMaster.com and neither has a Y or a T in brass or plastic going from 3/4" to 3/8". Fast Fittings has a 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/2 black plastic T that could be fed with a 3/4 x 1/2 reducer. They also have a 3/8 white nylon Y, a 3/8 polypropylene Y, and a 3/8 brass Y. Unfortunately, neither Fast Fitting nor McMaster list a 3/4 x 3/8 reducer.

2000StreetRod said:

I checked FastFittings.com and McMaster.com and neither has a Y or a T in brass or plastic going from 3/4" to 3/8". Fast Fittings has a 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/2 black plastic T that could be fed with a 3/4 x 1/2 reducer. They also have a 3/8 white nylon Y, a 3/8 polypropylene Y, and a 3/8 brass Y. Unfortunately, neither Fast Fitting nor McMaster list a 3/4 x 3/8 reducer.

Click to expand...

That one in the picture is 3/4 -1/2-1/2".I may end up having to use a straight reducer from 1/2 to 3/8" but seriously dont wanna..thats 8 more clamps, 4 more fittings and 8 more possible leaking spots

Cant believe they dont make a 3/4-3/8-3/8 because hell two 3/8s equal a 3/4"!!!!! Unless its different in water flow...

Now I'm really wishing that I remembered more of what I learned in tech school. I do recall something about fluid dynamics to that effect. Somehow I recall that the flow of a single 3/4 inch pipe is greater than that of two pipes half the size. It's been too damned long and I can't recall what it was called, so I can't look it up to see if I was remembering right. If it comes to mind I'll post up.

Haven't had any luck finding your elusive "Y" connector either.

I decided to go with that block [MENTION=165245]JoshT[/MENTION] posted.I bought four of the 1/2 npt to 3/4" hose fittings I posted and four of the pex 1/2 npt to barb fittings like I had and [MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION] posted

Sooo exhaust is done!! Took me THREE DAYS!!! It is soo tight under there and my bends to the tips was wrong..you would think 45* slant cuts, so a 45* bend from the muffler..NOPE!!! It ended up being a 64* bend..next the muffler couldnt go flat, not enough room and getting the BIGGEST performance muffler flowmaster may have been bad idea..

The cutouts also had to aim inwards in order to get them up high enough. The video the driveshaft looks close but tucks up into the tunnel when on ground.even after all that the mufflers and cutouts still hang pretty low

final problem which has bit me in the ASS, the driverside collector came out at a funny angle, towards the frame and right under it is my clutch line....well after about ten minutes of driving the clutch line blew..so now I need to have a custom stainless steel clutch line made im real lucky it happened stopped at a light..it blew oil ALLL over my fresh wrapped down pipes, it could have caught fire easily if the pipes were any hotter..


So just a detailed list of things..custom mandrel bent 2.5" down pipes wrapped with the new type wrap and sealed (update name when I remember lol)..Doug's disc type E-cutouts..flowmaster delta flow SUV 50 series mufflers and dual slant cut 3.5" tips..all ceramic coated









Ill change these to be able to view here as soon as I can remember, unless a mod wants to do it ..lol
4.0 true dual with cutouts(2): http://youtu.be/3tJAj5NuY1k

Doug's cutouts: http://youtu.be/zeYRCULmSIQ


Crappy broken phone but definitely can hear when they open....cant help but laugh every time..

4.0 Doug's cutouts..: http://youtu.be/3ivhSN6wI18

4.0 true dual with cutouts(1): http://youtu.be/3u-t43bZiLY