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HELP 2002 Explorer Does Not Start

biot

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March 13, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Miami, Fl.
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer Eddie Bauer
My Explorer has a 4.0 V6 with automatic transmission. I was driving it to my house and when I got there the engine shut down. When I tried to turn it back on the engine does not even turn over. It is completely dead. All the lights work, horn works, and the instrument panel lights up normal when I try to start the engine. The engine does not even turn over. I jumped the two terminals on the starter and the engine turned over so I know the battery has enough power to turn the engine. I changed the starter anyway just in case. I checked the fuses related to the starter and the ignition and they are all ok. I also checked the Ignition Relay and Starter Relay and they are fine. Does anyone have any ideas? I need the car to go to work so it is urgent.
 



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If the starter spins when you jump the terminals on the starter and not by key, it sounds like a starter solenoid problem to me. But you didn't go into detail on how your truck died, so I cant help you there. Was it running and then stalled? Or did you turn it off by the key and it wouldn't start? If it just died, power to your coil pack runs through your starter solenoid. If it went bad the power to your coil pack would die along with the ability of your starter to even spin the motor. Id catch a ride to auto zone or pepboys and pick one up, they are inexpensive and easy to replace. That would be the first thing I would replace.
 












Thanks Sphinx, I'll try changing the coil pack and see what happens. To answer your question, the car was running and then stalled. I did not turn it off. After it stalled it has not turned on again.
 






He wants you to replace the starter solenoid, not the coil pack.
 






I just helped a buddy with a similar problem on a mid-90's Ranger- it was the battery terminals. If you've got the type of terminals that are lead that has been cast around the tip of the terminal, go get some clamp-on style and cut the old ones off- way cheaper than coil packs and probably a little less hassle than a solenoid.
Good luck
~Ken
 






I just helped a buddy with a similar problem on a mid-90's Ranger- it was the battery terminals. If you've got the type of terminals that are lead that has been cast around the tip of the terminal, go get some clamp-on style and cut the old ones off- way cheaper than coil packs and probably a little less hassle than a solenoid.
Good luck
~Ken

Change the starter solenoid not the coil pack my friend. I don't think the battery terminals are the issue. The battery is ONLY there to start the engine. The alternator provides the truck with its electricity when running. The battery would not cause the engine to die when running unless his alternator was bad and the truck was running off the battery only. You can start the truck, and take the battery completely out and the truck will still run, lights and gauges will still work and so on. He said he jumped the terminals at the starter, bypassing the solenoid, But yet nothing when the key is turned. That strongly suggests a solenoid failure. Power runs from the battery/alternator to the key, then through the solenoid to the coil pack. If the solenoid stopped working it will cut the power to the coil pack, killing the engine along with not being able to start the engine none the less letting the starter to engage.

That is his issue.
 






I bought the starter and it came together with the solenoid. I installed it and it still does not turn over.
 






Ignition switch

If your ignition switch goes bad it will do as you your problem suggests also, would it not.
I have had older cars do this and the ignition switch was the problem. I don't know (don't have a schematic in front of me) what is between the key and the solenoid.

Dave
 






I bought the starter and it came together with the solenoid. I installed it and it still does not turn over.

You have a 94 explorer correct? If they gave you a starter with the solenoid attached then they gave you the wrong starter. Your solenoid is mounted under the hood on the passenger side inner fender, just behind the battery. It should look like this. That bump on the side of the starter is not the solenoid, its the plunger that kickes out the pinion gear of the starter.
 






The car with the problem is the 2002 Ford Explorer with a V6, 4.0. When you buy the starter for that car isn't the solenoid the round case mounted on the top of the starter? More clues for the puzzle. I put the ignition key in the "ON" position and jumped the starter terminals to try to turn the engine on. The engine did turn over but it would not start. I have a mechanic coming in tomorrow to take a look at it so I will post the fix as soon as it starts running again. In the meantime, I will keep on taking suggestions.
 
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My mistake, I was going by the vehicle listed under your name to the left. If your solenoid is mounted to the starter then I would suggest getting a cheap test light or jerry rigging a flash light bulb to the positive and negative of the solenoid and have a friend turn the key as you watch the bulb. If the light doesn't come on when the key is turned then there is no power getting to it, which would point to the next thing in line, which would be your ignition switch. Try putting the key in and move it around a lot as your turning it, even whack it a few times while its fully turned to see if you can get it to make a connection. Id pull the plastic off the column and take a look at the wiring at the switch. If all is well under the column I would take it to a professional. Electrical gremlins are always a real ***** to fined. But a test light of some sort would definitely save you a lot of guess work.
 






I have the same problem with my 97. It tried to start and just died. Tried to restart and the engine wont even turn over. I do hear that single click and think it is coming from the starter selenoid by the battery.
 






Change the starter solenoid not the coil pack my friend. I don't think the battery terminals are the issue. The battery is ONLY there to start the engine. The alternator provides the truck with its electricity when running. The battery would not cause the engine to die when running unless his alternator was bad and the truck was running off the battery only. You can start the truck, and take the battery completely out and the truck will still run, lights and gauges will still work and so on. He said he jumped the terminals at the starter, bypassing the solenoid, But yet nothing when the key is turned. That strongly suggests a solenoid failure. Power runs from the battery/alternator to the key, then through the solenoid to the coil pack. If the solenoid stopped working it will cut the power to the coil pack, killing the engine along with not being able to start the engine none the less letting the starter to engage.

That is his issue.

I agree, but supposing the alternator is weak, it could very well be something like corroded terminals. I had this problem with an old Thunderbird, too- it was just weak diodes in the alternator. Though in my case the car wouldn't die, it did have a host of symptoms- fading headlamps, weak door alarms, courtesy lamps, etc. I can only assume that had I not replaced battery terminals and rebuilt the alternator, engine stalling would've soon followed.
And besides, new terminals are $8 at NAPA- always take the least expensive, least labor-intensive route first, that's what I say!
Best of luck
~Ken
 






For those of you following this post - I took the car to the Ford Dealer. Fuse 41 under the hood was shorting everytime we tried starting the car. The dealer traced fuse 41 wiring and found a short in the EEC HEGO Harness. They also replaced sensor 5C5Z-9F472-AA (Sensor 134406) -whatever that is. I was charged $126.11 in parts and $367.45 in labor charges ( 5 hours of diagnostic work).
 






Isn't the part on the fender wall behind the battery the Stater Relay and not the Starter Selenoid? I thought the Starter Selenoid on my '97 is on the top of the Starter.
 






For those of you following this post - I took the car to the Ford Dealer. Fuse 41 under the hood was shorting everytime we tried starting the car. The dealer traced fuse 41 wiring and found a short in the EEC HEGO Harness. They also replaced sensor 5C5Z-9F472-AA (Sensor 134406) -whatever that is. I was charged $126.11 in parts and $367.45 in labor charges ( 5 hours of diagnostic work).

I just experienced today the exact same failure......I'll follow up on this suggestion to find the root cause of this......

Any other idea?
 






Done, fuse 41 was the one! still don't know what caused the short circuit but the car is up and running.

As a comment, when the car finally started, the o/d light started flashing, I went to autozone and they reseted the codes and now everything is up and running........

Thanks for this post!!!
 






Done and closed, a harness on the rear of transmission was frictioning with shaft, this is where the short circuit happened.

No need to replace any sensor, after a full scan everything is ok now!!!
 



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Help, my 2002 Ford Ranger won't start

Was changing the oil on my 2002 Ranger, 3.0 w/Manual Trans, and hit the starter with a oil filter removal tool. There was a small spark, now the truck won't start, and when I turn the ignition key, the instrument panel lights up like a christmas tree! All the warning lights (check engine, check guages, battery, fuel door, etc.) go on. Checked the fuzes, all good. Don't know how to check the relays. Need help bad. Was supposed to leave for North Carolina today.
 






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