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Modified 1995-2001 Explorers Questions related to modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and 2002+ Sports (2dr). Aftermarket accessories and modifications. Bullbar, running boards, floor mats, cargo mat, DVD headrest, wheels, tires, stereo upgrade, headlights, mud flaps, torsion twist, lift kits, engine swap, transmission swap.

Engine tries to explode after M112

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Old 01-16-2010, 05:33 PM   #41
volver
Milan, IL Quad City area
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looks good.

Aluminum and steel have different coefficients of expansion. The steel will expand more than the aluminum.

so the gasket could bind were the steel meets the lower aluminum. But at each seam between the plates I don't think there will be a problem. the steel should expand all at the same rate unless they were heated from one end that could screw stuff up.

I will have to see what happens and then possible remake it out of aluminum.




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Old 01-17-2010, 11:16 PM   #42
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it lives. stay tuned. i will start new post after it is completly done and tuned.




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4x120 watt head lights + 2x100 watt head lights + 2x30 watt fog lights, thats 740 watts, one horse power=746 watts. "I am afraid of the dark"
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:19 PM   #43
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I am thinking that a tune can be doen with a wide band A/F meter and a SCT tuner....
I say that because I had my Mountaineer tuned on a dyno and that is what we was used was a wide band just to adjust the a/f and it matched the one I had on the piller. We played with the fuel at WOT and fidgeted with the timing a bit...
I would figure that you could get someone to write you a tune that would be in the "ball park" then tweak it on a rural road.

I do also have a autotap OBD II to create histograms of various outputs and the wideband A/F has a serial out so I can plug it in and log it in procomm...allows me to plot the A/F over the rpm range.

??
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:56 PM   #44
volver
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Yeah, i need to make an idler pulley set up, cut a hole in the hood, get some sort of cowl, after i get paid i am either going to get a tuner and and a wide band or i am going to go to the dyno and us there stuff.




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4x120 watt head lights + 2x100 watt head lights + 2x30 watt fog lights, thats 740 watts, one horse power=746 watts. "I am afraid of the dark"
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:19 AM   #45
techieman33
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James has tuned a couple of boosted explorers that way over the internet. It will take some trial and error to get it exactly right, but could be a better tune in the end.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:02 AM   #46
XLRVIII
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Originally Posted by wpurple View Post
I am thinking that a tune can be doen with a wide band A/F meter and a SCT tuner....
??
The "SCT tuner" wont do it, without the "racer software" or having someone create a file for you.

The tuner itself, is merely the device that puts the tune file into the PCM.

There are some very very crude "on device adjustments" but I wouldn't use the on device adjustments to change AF ratio...they simply dont have the control needed to properly dial in AF.




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Old 01-21-2010, 02:34 PM   #47
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I had Doug from Bama write me a "ballpark" tune, then I was able to use the software on the computer to make the necessary adjustments to dial the a/f timing and shift points in to where I want them...maybe this is only do-able with the first gen SCT programmer?
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:13 PM   #48
volver
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GM has a lot of free software for tuning. (or at lease it can become free. ).

All i can find for ford is the SCT software and its rather expensive.

were can i get ford 5.0 OBD II tuning soft wear for cheap or free?




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4x120 watt head lights + 2x100 watt head lights + 2x30 watt fog lights, thats 740 watts, one horse power=746 watts. "I am afraid of the dark"
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:06 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by wpurple View Post
I had Doug from Bama write me a "ballpark" tune, then I was able to use the software on the computer to make the necessary adjustments to dial the a/f timing and shift points in to where I want them...maybe this is only do-able with the first gen SCT programmer?
First gen SCT programmer?
are you talking about the Blue 9100 handheld or the small Xcalibrator 1 that has no screen, only buttons and leds?

If so the software you used is called "Extreme Tune" and is the same kind of adjustments that I described above...definately not the best way to make it all happed due to the very limited amount of control available in extreme tune.

the proracer software has a much more robust level of control




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Old 01-21-2010, 04:09 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by volver View Post
GM has a lot of free software for tuning. (or at lease it can become free. ).

All i can find for ford is the SCT software and its rather expensive.

were can i get ford 5.0 OBD II tuning soft wear for cheap or free?
The aformentioned SCT extreme tune is free.

you would still need some way to get the tune file onto your vehicle
Ie Xcal1-9100-Xcal2- or the big dollar X-3 or Livewire devices.

X-1's, 9100's X2's can be had relatively cheap




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Old 01-21-2010, 08:16 PM   #51
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X-CAL-1 no display with the X-treme software....

with the blower, FMU and MaFIA, we were able to tune the A/F very flat thru the rpm's at WOT keepng it under 10.5 it wasn't until we hit 6# that it went to 10.2 as the FMU kicked in and upped the FP from 62 to 72psi.

Might have lucked out with a decent starting tune. Had to up the fuel at WOT to 15, and also do 2 clicks on the MaFIA (by diablo..it extends the MAFsensor) and we also edged up the timing by 2...

Mind you that the fuel trims were already richened up, the timing slightly, shifts firmed, and the speed limiter removed. My only complaing is that at WOT, I don't want to switch into OD, still working on it.

Very happy with the performance.

Had the blower for about 12,000 miles and works great.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:51 AM   #52
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Sounds like you nailed it..

upping the fuel to 15% WOT is the max value that Xtreme tune allows, so luckily your other tuning aids, the FMU and Mafia could bridge the gap.

compared to Xtreme tune the PRP software gives individual load point control
not just "idle", "part throttle", "wot" adjustments.

in PRP you could have went to 5K in the load table and stopped the motor from drifting rich, but.. drifting rich is far better than drifting lean.

like I said, sounds like you nailed it.




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Old 01-22-2010, 08:52 AM   #53
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were can i get ford 5.0 OBD II tuning soft wear for cheap or free?
So did you find it?




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Old 01-22-2010, 07:18 PM   #54
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The SCT racer package is worth every penny. I used it to tune my 2000 V6 turbo mustang. 450+ whp at 13psi with a big T4 single.


Sleeper






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Old 01-22-2010, 09:14 PM   #55
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Eric helped here the most, you need a flasher to begin with(SCT Excal I/II/III). That's the device with the program that you can swap with the vehicle.

If the rest of the engine stuff is okay to support it, the flasher can be tuned to take care of everything. Your current fuel injectors and the PCM program are making it run so rich. You need a new PCM program just to begin with.

I suggest you contact James here of Henson performance. He's our resident tuner who has those flashers from SCT, and the wideband, MAF, and software. For just the single application, it would be cheaper to get the tuning done by James without buying the tuning software. Contact him and see what you can work out. Good luck,




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Old 01-30-2010, 07:32 AM   #56
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updates?
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:47 AM   #57
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Ok.

Drove 10 miles, the Air to Fuel Ratio gauge was maxed out on rich but engine seemed to be running fine. Then the check engine light came on. After it came on i could see the the ECM was tuning based on AFR, the AFR gauge was bouncing from lean to rich. Engine ran better for the next 2 miles. Parked it, took off the intake

I replaced the PVC tube with a steel one i made.

Car sat for a week while i build intake tube. Tried to start and the idle air went crazy and the injectors were way to rich. The engine keep revving between 300rpm and 1700rpm. Weird. It eventually ran smooth at 800rpm and 20 lbs of vacuum.

I tried to drive it, moved about 50 feet and the engine started acting up. Sputtering and black smoke. way to much fuel.

I parked and pulled the negative terminal off the battery to reset the ECM. When i tried to start it 20 minutes later worked fine. But as soon as it got in to closed loop it freaked out and started coughing black smoke. So i have to drive 5 miles an hour with black smoke coming out. As soon as i hit the drive way engine ran fine again. I parked it anyway so i didn't screw anything up.

Its probably a tuning problem. A month back I replaced the fuel pump with a performance one. It took the computer a couple of minutes to learn the pump. Once I reset the computer, the combination of 39lb injectors and a stronger pump must have been to much for it.

Unless you guys have any ideas what mechanically could be wrong. Maybe the vacuum was loose on the fuel regulator and i had 100 psi of pressure the whole time.




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4x120 watt head lights + 2x100 watt head lights + 2x30 watt fog lights, thats 740 watts, one horse power=746 watts. "I am afraid of the dark"
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:31 AM   #58
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Sounds about right

Your engine symptoms sound about right for a high pressure fuel pump, high flow injectors and no tune to compensate. There's no way your PCM can compensate for your configuration. When I was experimenting with my MAF sensor the engine would just barely run at 10:1 A/F ratio. Running excessively rich for any length of time will overheat your catalytic converters. I agree that the best thing to do is just park it until you get a tune. I doubt there's anything major mechanically wrong with your installation.
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:21 PM   #59
techieman33
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Agreed, you need a tune. There is no doubt in my mind about that, without a tune your motor is a ticking time bomb.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:32 PM   #60
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gonna throw my 2 cents in here from another person that has done it.

1) you said your AFR gauge was bouncing back and forth from rich to lean, please tell us/me, that you didnt buy a 30$ gauge, and got the wideband that has the o2 sensor hooked up to it

2) i had a problem with the rpms bouncing around and then staying settle and then bouncing around and staying stable...but i forget what it was..im pretty sure it was a vacuum leak somewhere, or maybe that was before it got tuned....might of been that because i went from stock MAF/24lbs injectors to 90mm MAF/42lbs injectors.

3) intake wise, mhm, i thought my temporary intake looked like crap (no offense) ahha but yes, i agree with buying one that is fitted for this charger...why? you wont have to worry about drilling holes to match up with the inlet..port matching will be done for you...its made for the charger, AND!!! MOST IMPORTANTLY!! if you plan on making the most power, the lightning intake/TB will be your best bet..getting the air to that roots blower is most important, dont want a large restriction from a homeade intake

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C-L-P...Q5fAccessories

for 260$...sounds like a good deal...probably find the stock one for like 100$

4) right after i installed my 112 on my ranger, i tried to start it at 10:30 at night and it made a VERY large popping sound, like one cylinder firing, so we called it a night, and from there on, i think i started it like 3 times, for a total of like 3 minutes and it wasnt running great, but wasnt running HORRIBLE..(and by horrible, i mean it wasnt like blowing up, or dying or whatever..) and from there on, i trailered it to the dyno so they could tune it for vacuum and then i broke it in for 700 miles and drove it to the other dyno to get it tuned...

5) be patient with this, not sure if you are or not? but this is a sick project..and its gonna take some time..you are gonna be making mad power in that thing if you do it right and come out on top with an engine in tact.

6) lilroush is legit..ahah love the mustangs..are you the maker of the intake thats all over on mustangs? are you "mysteed" on some other forum? i think he makes intakes, but these mustangs was what inspired me to put the m112 on my ranger, thank you




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