LIGHTING FAQ's & ANSWERS !!!!! LOM & MORE!!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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LIGHTING FAQ's & ANSWERS !!!!! LOM & MORE!!!

I'm sure I'll think of more later, but here's a few "Frequently asked Questions"
Q: Can I hook up fog lights or driving lights to the stock switch, even though they are higher wattage?
A: Yes, and there are two different methods for this. The first is the easier method, the second is the preferred method.
1. You can simply hook up to the existing fog light wiring by splicing positive into positive, ground into ground. This is not preferred however, because if the lights you are installing is of a higher wattage then your stock wiring (and chances are 99% that they are). By doing so you run the risk of frying not only the wiring but also the switch, as well as overheating the wires near the light.
2. This is the preferred method because you will ensure the lights are getting allt he power they need, the aftermarket relay is included so you won't overpower the stock one, yet you can still use the stock switch. I did this with my 2000 F-150 and it works quite well. You wire up the lights according to the provided diagram, except for where the wires run to the switch. Let's say for example that with the provided relay you have wires heading in three directions. First off is wires heading to the battery, then wires heading to the lights themselves, then wires running to the switch. In some relays this can be only one wire, in others it can be two or three, depending on switches provided. You'll want to cut all b the "hot" wire. This "hot wire" you will want to splice into the hot wire for your existing fogs, and you should be set! By doing this, the lights are getting allt he power they need from the battery, you aren't overburdening the stock relay, wiring, or switches. The relay only needs a few watts coming from the switch so this method works fine. When you activate the stock fog light switch, it sends the signal through its own relay of electricity to the wire heading to the lamps. This signal is picked up by the aftermarket relay and it turns your lights on. Like I said, this method is safer, will result in brighter light and less damage to lights.

Q: Can I stick lights on my factory roof rack?
A: Yes, but be prepared for some issues. I had 4 PIAA 80 XT's mounted to the stock roof rack for nearly a year, before upgrading to a conferr rack. The problem is it is difficult to keep the lights aimed properly as the factory rack is plastic, and cannot torque the bolts down as tight as they should be. This lights may also "wobble" slightly as the factory member does flex a bit.

Q: How do I run the wires to the roof rack?
A: Anyway you want. Some people run the wires through the rood crack to avoid drilling, others have run the wiring all the way to the rear tailgate to avoid drilling. I personally just drilled holes, dropped down the headliner, and ran the wires through there with that method.

Q: What lights will fit in the factory fog openings?
A: All I know is what PIAA's will fit. If you have the rectangular lights (91-98 as I recall) the PIAA 1500's or 980's will fit. If you use the circular lights, the 510's should fit (I've also seen a pair of Pilots that fi tbut don't recall the part number). If you are wondering whether or not you can hok them up to your stock switch, see first question. I've also been told the KC 50 series and the CATZ MSC fog lights will work.

Q: I want to wire more then one set of lights together to use the same switch, is this possible?
A: Yes, but please follow these instructions or you will run the risk of not having enough power to your lights or frying your wiring. Hook up the lights according to the factory spec's, using the relay only for what it's designed for (for example, don't use a relay designed for two lights for four lights). Hook everything up except the switch. Take the hot wire from one switch and splice it into the hot wire from the other switch, then run the switch as normal. This will allow each set of lights to receive the necessary amount of power, but the signal from the switch will reach both relays.
 



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Here are some links to:
Fog/driving light wiring diagram: http://www.rallylights.com/hella/AuxLampWiring.aspx


WIRE SIZE for different bulb wattage & wire lengths:
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/SensibleWiring.aspx


NEONS How to & which brands:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101422
Glowin97X did a great write-up on neons.


CLEAR THIRD BRAKE LIGHT:
Dirty Dog has a good write-up on how he changed out the high mount brake light from red to clear.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105699


BACK UP LIGHT WIRING DIAGRAM: http://www.kchilites.com/faq/instructions/517_backup.pdf

FUSE PANEL & FUSES: Find the "Owner Guides" at: www.motorcraftservice.com
 






Light wiring diagram;
 

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Headlight Housing Removal & Installation

1. Disconect Negative battery cable.

2. Remove plastic panel across top of radiator. On 96 & earlier modles it is held on with screws & plastic rivets. On 97 and later each side of the panel is hinged and can be flipped up to access headlight assembly.

3. Remove the screws on top of the turn/park light assembly and pull assembly straight out.

4. On 96 & earlier modles remove grille. (Ithink all models have to have the grill out.) Remove screws around the top of the grille and in the marker light assy. area. Pull grill straight out by disengageing the four clips along the bottom that hold it in place. (clips should be replaced on the grille prior to putting it back in.)

5. Using needle-nose pliars, squeeze the plastic clips on the headlight housing to release it from the body.

To adjust the headlights put a piece of tape on a wall at the same hieght as your headlight from the ground and directly in front of the headlight. Move back 25' on level ground and adjust the light so that the intense portion of the beam is 2" below & 2" to the right of the piece of tape.
 












WHAT FOG LIGHT BULBS FIT WHAT YEARS....

91 thru 94---H3

95 thru 98---899 or 893(35 watts) upgrade to 885 (50 watts)

99 thru 00---H1

01 thru 05---9145 or upgrade to 9155 or can be converted to 9005
 
























It will not just help you even it will totally guide you about the lighting adjustment, fixing and maintenance matters..Absolutely fine information really good..
all the members are doing great work ..:thumbsup:
 






I live rural (DARK, DARK at night) and have been "headlamp bulb shopping" to find nothing but numbers and sales pitches. Even Google won't show a comparison or review! I am looking for the best available 9007 bulb for maximum light. Has anyone found a Review or specifications for this bulb number?
Thanks for any help given, I need it!
 






I live rural (DARK, DARK at night) and have been "headlamp bulb shopping" to find nothing but numbers and sales pitches. Even Google won't show a comparison or review! I am looking for the best available 9007 bulb for maximum light. Has anyone found a Review or specifications for this bulb number?
Thanks for any help given, I need it!

I've been running Sylvania Silver Stars and am quite happy with them after several runs up and down the AlCan in the gloom of night. Very important to keep your headlight lenses polished and clean and lights well adjusted. I keep a socket in my driver door map pocket so I can stop on the open road and adjust them for changed load conditions! Living here in Alaska, good lighting is sooo important.

In addition, I installed an old-fashioned floor mounted dimmer switch (from a junkyard F-150) that intercepts the flash-to-pass wire from the steering column and allows me to drive with both high and low beam lights on, including my fog lights. (closed circuit to ground = high beams on) Be careful when you park during the day as it's easy to walk away and leave those 'brights' on inadvertently when setting the e-brake! No doubt this mod could be done another way to avoid that, but at the time it was quick and easy.

Hope that helps...

Rick
 






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