Alternator wiring with ammeter.. Ford 1G alternator

I had to replace the GM 1 wire alternator on the Van this last weekend and had fun with putting a stock style alternator back.

The factory wiring is a mess..

I found some simple diagrams, but I have since learned it wasn't "quite" right for the Van.

What I did is run new wires and wired it the following way.

S on Regulator to S on Alternator
F on Regulator to F on Alternator
A on Regulator go to the side of the starter solenoid
I on Regulator goes to Coil wire at solenoid.

B+ wire on Alternator goes to Side of solenoid (tied in with Regulator A wire)

The above system Works, but its not right. From more reading, When you have an ammeter (which we have) the wiring is different..

The ammeter version says..
S on Regulator to ignition switch wire
F on Regulator to F on Alternator
A on Regulator to side of starter solenoid
I on Regulator - NOT USED

B+ on Alternator to side of starter solenoid
S on Alternator to Choke.

When they say S on regulator to ignition switch wire, do they mean a wire that has power in start and run? If so, the coil wire at the solenoid has that..
We don't have the factory Choke, so what is the purpose of the S to the choke? Is the S wire "at the choke" trying to get 12V in start/run? If so, I could just hook it to the same place where the I wire is currently hooked up to?

Would doing that give me back my ammeter? I don't "need" the ammeter, but I am trying to get some of the factory wireing/functions back. Worst case, I can throw in a volt meter to keep an eye on charging.

~Mark

EDIT:
I'm posting what I found on the 'net that "seems" to make sense (from 460ford.com).. Just not sure if I need to do it since what I have is "working"..

There are two basic configurations that I know of on 1st Generation Ford alternators (1G). I'll show them here starting with the regulator.

#1 Normally used with an "ALT" light on the dash. jones, this should be what you have...

I - LtGrn/Red - To "Alt" Light other end of light to Ign switch (must have light) accy terminal. Light should turn on w/ign switch on accy. or run with engine off
A - Ylw/Wht - To Batt+ at starter solenoid, also noise supressor
S - Wht/Blk - To Alternator Stator "S" terminal (furthest from large batt stud) also may go to electric choke
F - Org/Ltblu - To Alternator Field "F" terminal (closest to the large batt stud)

#2 Normally used with an AMP gauge.

I - No connection
A- Ylw/Wht - To Batt+ at starter solenoid, also to the noise supressor
S - LtGrn/Red - To Ignition switch "run" terminal (not accy.)
F- Org or Wht - To Alternator Field ""F" connection


The Stator "S" terminal of the Alternator is not used in this configuration.

The terminals on the regulator are as follows: I - A S F (note the space between I and A).

Click to expand...

I've been looking at more diagrams, and it "appears" to get the ammeter to work I have to let the full charge of the alternator go through the Dash.

I have a 100 Amp 1g (large case)alternator now (factory appears to have been the 65 amp with a 100 Amp option) so I'm thinking I may not want to put that back. Of course, I may be mis-interpreting what I'm reading and it may use something else to determine amp draw/charge on the ammeter.

~Mark

Yeah, you need full amperage into the dash for the ammeter to work. Most people bypass their factory Mopar ammeters for that reason. The wiring to the gauge has led to a lot of fires after connections get old, and wires brittle.