Front Suspension Parts

I will be putting in new lower ball joints, upper A arms and other suspension part next week. I am also changing the rear stabilizer bar too, Why you ask, Well, Just because I want too, and I think it is worn out. Below is a list of Moog Parts that I have on hand. If anyone in Eastern NC wants to stop in and take pictures or a Video of the process, let me know. Dave P.

I tried to put spaces between the listing, but they just disappear.
Parts are for a 2001 Sport Trac, 2WD
Qty Moog P/N Part Name
1 CK80068 RIGHT Upper Control Arm
1 CK8708T Left Upper control arm
2 K80065 Alignment Chamber Kit
2 K8695T Lower Ball Joint
2 K700542 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
1 K80080 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit
1 K80788 Rear Stabilizer Bar

Great list, looks like you've done some research. Many tutorials on this forum, fire away if you have any questions. GL

P.S.- Don't forget a grease gun, most greasable ball joints are almost dry when shipped.

"How To" threads for 1995-2001 Explorers - Stickys compiled
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386329

Thanks, I did get a new cartridge of grease. Yes, I did a lot of research. Started here on this forum and then the internet. Spent several hours. With the numbers of ball joints replaced, I am surprised that there is not a Thread on the top of the page. I had to dig for information. A common problem with out Sport Tracs. Maybe it should be on the top of the page. Just my thoughts. Dave P.

Curious why you opted for the "service grade" RK instead of the premium CK right UCA. Also, RK may not have replaceable ball joints.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/ControlArmBrochure.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/

Just did my lowers this weekend. Bought the same model (Moog K8695T) off of Amazon. The first one, passenger's side, took me almost an entire day. I actually had the axle slip out while trying to pull the knuckle. A lot of panic and researching ensued. Then I had to take everything apart to get a straight shot toward the diff and get it seated again. Still not sure if that was ok, or if it should have just fallen out like that. Not talking the half axle either, everything from the diff outward just pulled out. Seems to be working fine though. And I now have new front diff fluid, so not a total disaster. Driver's side went way easier. Probably took ~2 hours, while still being careful with things.

Also, if you borrow the ball joint press kit from Autozone you will discover two things. 1) None of the cups used to press out really work. The ball joints are situated very close to the front of the lower control arm and the curved steel lip it has. You have to use the big cup, and it will want to move diagonally because of that lip as you press the ball joint out. It's trial and error and a pain the neck. 2) At least for the kit I received, I think it wasn't meant for ball joints on trucks. The pieces would only let you press one back in if the stud was a smaller diameter. So, you have to get creative in finding something that will go above the ball joint as it presses up through the control arm. I used a pipe wrench and piece of steel plate.

A big tip, that I thought of after the fact, is to make a list of the torque specs on every bolt you will be pulling out. That saves you from stopping every 5 minutes when it's time to button it back up.

On a related note, I've got a dumb question. The lowers from Moog did come with some grease in them. You could see it inside the boot before installing the grease fitting. I'd never used a grease gun before this weekend, and I happened to also install a new upper control with a grease fitting at the same time. I greased it first, and you might be able to guess what I did... Put so much in the seal of the boot exploded and shot grease everywhere. So with the lowers, I only shot 6 squeezes of grease in, and they swelled a little, and thankfully didn't explode.
But anyway, how do you really know how much to squeeze in?

BeefMan said:

But anyway, how do you really know how much to squeeze in?

Click to expand...

Hopefully you installed them with the grease relief valves facing inboard. Fill slowly until you see fresh grease purging, no more.

The MOOG grease-relief valve prevents overfilling as well as debris and moisture intrusion.
The indexed valve directs excess lube away from critical brake components.

Click to expand...

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27014_Boot_Design_En.pdf

Superior rubber compound stands up to temperature extremes, dirt and abrasion. Its unique sealed technology,
with a special grease-relief valve, helps prevent contamination and allows debris to be flushed out when serviced.

Click to expand...

http://pcs.federalmogul.com/Product...Sheeta5744a1b-d4d1-4d07-9d10-8f5728e09ca9.pdf

Oh awesome thanks! I'd read about the relief valves, and installed the ball joints with the "inboard" label facing into the truck. Didn't actually realize that was the purpose behind it.

Good catch swshawaii. I checked my receipt and I did get the CK80068 Control Arm and Ball Joint. I corrected my original post. Thanks for all the help, hints, and advice. I have changed ball joints before and know that sometimes it goes smooth, and others times it can be rough. I am allowing 5 days for this job, but hope for only 2, I will post an update When I have it completed. Dave P.