03 Mountaineer 4.0l how to know why AWD parts missing?

[mrmontebuilder]

Hello all!! I just picked up an 03 Mountaineer with 130k really clean with 4.0L leather etc. for $2000 and it runs and drives great BUT it was missing the front drive shaft and both front axles. I see no leaks and no funny noises or CEL and seller got it wholesale so no history. What is best course of action to determine reason for missing parts? I am using as-is as 2wd and have no complaints but would like to make it be AWD if possible for less than $1200ish if possible. I work at a local shop so tools and lift are no problem but my experience with these is limited and any advice would be appreciated. And yes I know I took a gamble but the wifey wanted an Explorer and this was close to it and a similar Explorer in my area this nice with 4/AWD working was around $4500-5500 and these seem to have issues with the front diffs and transfer case and could fail a week after I buy it at least with this I KNOW what has been done to it.

 

[chakaD]

Viscous Coupling in Transfer Case is toast. Also Do some searches but I am pretty sure you need the front axles in if it was originally AWD or you risk your front hubs failing.

I did the same thing you did. Bought one cheap with cracked diffs and a toasted transfer case. Replaced diffs and removed front driveshaft only. She has been driving 2wd for 8 months with no problems.

Plan to buy a new viscous coupling someday and repair it.

 

[chakaD]

Here is a link to a previous post.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279713

and the part in the transfer case that failed

http://www.stecouplers.com/recharge/pop/product001.html

 

[mrmontebuilder]

I was counting on the coupling being one of the issues and I can handle pulling t-case and doing a rebuild on it. Anyway to know for sure what the issue is without putting in front driveshaft and axles? I see the cv joints still there from axles so bearings should be ok and to be quite honest when I looked under the truck I had to do a double take to realize what was missing. I like the truck and don't mind sinking a bit into it so AWD works. I was in the snow yesterday and a few times it would have been nice to have it.If it just the t-case needing work I may buy another and rebuild it on the bench with new coupler, bearings etc so I can just swap it out and install driveshaft and axles and go.

 

[chakaD]

So someone actually took the time to disassemble the half shafts leaving just the outer joint and axle stub? Maybe the previous owner just wanted to convert to 2wd.

If not there is a post somewhere with pics of someone replacing the coupling with the t-case in the vehicle. Just removed the rear half slide the new one in and reassembled.

Not sure how you would test it without the front driveshaft installed though.

 

[esclamada]

The previous owner probably has some binding issues with the front differential and/or transfer case. Doesn't make sense to completely remove all those parts for 2WD conversion. AWD makes the resale value of the car higher than 2WD. My best guess is that both of them are shot.

You could probably scout some junkyard in your area for the front diff, halfshafts and transfer case. They're pretty much bolt on and an easy DIY. Go with the front diff assembly first and do the transfer case last.

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[pet575]

My front diff went bad a few years back and I pulled the front driveshaft. Was planning on eventually pulling the half-shafts in order to make a step-by-step front diff replacement easier without a bunch of downtime at once. Still haven't gotten that far with it and am no longer certain if I'm even going to keep it for very much longer.

 

[Carguy3J]

To the OP, this current situation is not safe. The V8/AWD Mountineer will roll away, even with the vehicle in park, if the front driveshaft/cv-shafts are not connected.

You could also convert it to manually shifted, part-time 4wd, instead of AWD.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726

 

[pet575]

The V8/AWD Mountineer will roll away, even with the vehicle in park, if the front driveshaft/cv-shafts are not connected.[/url]

I've never once had this happen to me and a significant amount of the time since my front shaft came out was also without a properly functioning e-brake.

 

[mrmontebuilder]

I found a good used front driveshaft for $72 with a 3 year warranty and new axles cost me $50 a pop through my work. I am going to put it in the air this week and see what is going on and turn things by hand and listen for noises and go from there.

 

[mrmontebuilder]

If a transfer case is needed can anyone direct me to an interchange so I know what will fit my Mountaineer? I am trying to avoid downtime with the truck so even buying one and doing new bearings/seals and viscous coupler on it so I can just swap it out is worth some extra $$$ to me to save time.

 

[chakaD]

You have a BW4410. Used in the 02-05 AWD vehicles.

A BW4411 would bolt in but the amount of wiring and electronics involved is prohibitive.

And the BW4406 will not bolt up. Totally different bolt patterns on t-cases.

 

[mrmontebuilder]

Thanks chakaD! Still have not gotten it on the lift yet have an Explorer with broken defrost door plenum in one bay and had a Geo Prizm engine job in another. We finished Geo yesterday and Explorer will be done today if parts arrive early enough.

 

[chakaD]

Also if your coupling was good the car would be able to roll without the front driveshaft. I have not had mine roll, but still good practice to use the E-Brake.

 

[mrmontebuilder]

Does the problem of the truck rolling apply to my 4.0 Mounty as well? I park on some pretty steep inclines and don't set the brake and it stays put BUT I know how my luck tends to be and it will be a $50k Porsche or similar parked in front or behind the day it decides to roll LOL

 

[mrmontebuilder]

Finally got this in the air today at work. I looked everything over and saw no physical damage to front differential or transfer case, however, when I tried turning the driveshaft yoke flange on front diff by hand it felt VERY tight and sounded like a blender full of marbles. So my assumption is someone removed front driveshaft figuring it was transfer case and saw no improvement in the issue and then cut the shafts out of front axle to stop front diff from turning at all. Sound logical?
My first try at fixing this will be to get two new front axles, good used front driveshaft and good used front diff and install these and test drive. If no binding occurs and front wheels spin in loose gravel or snow then transfer case should be ok correct?
Just don't want to unnecessarily replace parts that are good. If transfer case needs a coupler I am thinking of getting new viscous coupler and rebuild kit for transfer case and going that route so I know it is good and will last for awhile.