koda2000
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- September 2, 2011
- Messages
- 13,874
- Reaction score
- 1,579
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- x
I know the PATS disables the injectors which is why I find it weird. Maybe I'm actually hearing something prime in the front? Something primes! I'm still lost as to why it started up 30s in with the theft light flashing fast. Theft continued to flash in pattern when I started it up too.
I will add that when the door locks all started working it was when I had all the plastic floor molding off revealing the wire harness track along the floor, I don't know if that matters. When I unplugged that barrel connector the first time and plugged it back in and the locks started working; I unplugged the battery and reinstalled the PATS transceiver, ****put all the floor molding back*** and plugged the battery back in only to discover no locks again. even with removing the boot and inspecting the wires and spraying in cleaner and trying to reattach it twice.
I found a thread with people having close to similar problems. I haven't tried the rear power lock yet but looks like everyone has a problem with some pink wires on the floor. I'm wondering if it was coincidence that my locks starting working after I removed that cylinder as beforehand I removed the floor molding. Maybe I moved something on the floor wiring harness? I can't recall exactly but I'm pretty sure I didn't try the lock after removing the floor molding and only tried after unplugging and plugging in that barrel connector
I did cut the zip tie and pulled the boot back but maybe I didn't look thorough enough. I will inspect the floor harness again tonight and check the rear power lock. Going to be hard to get a helper and find time to remove the door.
It's much easier to check the door loom wires with the door off, which is really easy to do, other than it's clumsy to do by yourself. When examining the wires, keep in mind that the insulation does not have to be broken for the wire inside to be broken. If you can't get someone to help you remove the door, get creative.
When you examined the wires running along the door sills and under then rear seat, did you remove the tape covering them? Did you see the factory splices on the pink wires? Where the splice points green with corrosion? If there are no broken wires in the driver's door loom it's possible disturbing the splices on the wires in the door sills temporarily allowed the locks to function. By trying the door lock/unlock button found in the cargo area, you effectively bypass the driver's door related wiring. If the locks work from the cargo area every time, you have a BROKEN WIRE/BAD CONTACT/OPEN CIRCUIT somewhere between the driver's door switch and the lock/unlock relays in the cargo area.
IDK what you're talking about regarding the "priming noise" you're hearing. The only thing that primes is the fuel pump, which is not deactivated by PATS. If you're hearing something making noise under the hood, it's not the fuel pump. The fault code your seeing is most likely referencing a bad connection to the transceiver ring. PATS is not all that mysterious.
- The ignition key has a chip inside it.
- The transceiver ring around the ignition lock cylinder reads the key's chip and passes its code to the PCM for verification using a dumb buss.
- If the PCM recognizes the key's chip it enables the fuel injectors. If not, the fuel injectors are not enabled, the engine will not start and the theft light blinks quickly.
- If you experience intermittent PATS issues you probably have an electrical contact issue.