2000 Mountineer AWD towing

I have a 2000 Mountineer 5.0L AWD 3.73 Posi rear (100,000 miles too - but I just bought it so not sure of the history. It has never towed (no "witness" marks on bumper from the ball) and I did not see any marks underneath from a hitch. The trans fluid is pink and does not smell bad.

IT has the "light" trailer tow package when made. I saw there is a 8" x 10" trans cooler in front of the radiator that looks to be factory.

According to charts and information - I can tow up to a total of 6,400 pounds including weight in the vehicle.

I will be towing an enclosed trailer (5 x 8 or 4' x 8 depending on availability), holding a dining room (table 8 chairs, breakfront and base) set about 1,000 miles - some flat some with hills but not steep mountains, but all interstate.

From what I read the hidden Hitch Class 3 is the preferred set up and it seems that is pretty easily installed to boot.

I am a bit confused with all the talk about additional trans coolers - do I need to add one? If so, where? Yes, I know the trans is probably the weak link, although this truck has a 4R70T in it. Could someone please help explain that part of it?

Also, is it worth getting the adjustable height draw bar? As I will be renting trailers not using the same one?

Thanks for your clarifications.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I have a 2000 Mountineer 5.0L AWD 3.73 Posi rear (100,000 miles too - but I just bought it so not sure of the history. It has never towed (no "witness" marks on bumper from the ball) and I did not see any marks underneath from a hitch. The trans fluid is pink and does not smell bad.

IT has the "light" trailer tow package when made. I saw there is a 8" x 10" trans cooler in front of the radiator that looks to be factory.

That's correct- it was the only "towing package" available.

According to charts and information - I can tow up to a total of 6,400 pounds including weight in the vehicle.

I will be towing an enclosed trailer (5 x 8 or 4' x 8 depending on availability), holding a dining room (table 8 chairs, breakfront and base) set about 1,000 miles - some flat some with hills but not steep mountains, but all interstate.

You should be able to tow this no problem, you have a very capable truck. On flat ground, you should be able to tow in OD, just watch for shifting in and out of O/D. If it starts that, lock it out of OD, you'll use more fuel, but save your trans. On hills, certainly lock it out of OD.

From what I read the hidden Hitch Class 3 is the preferred set up and it seems that is pretty easily installed to boot.

That's correct, Draw Tite, Recce (sp?), and Curt all make fine products. I prefer a model specific hitch (meaning no multifit or universal). It's personal preference, but I like square or rectangular over round as they tend to flex less than round hitches.

I am a bit confused with all the talk about additional trans coolers - do I need to add one? If so, where? Yes, I know the trans is probably the weak link, although this truck has a 4R70T in it. Could someone please help explain that part of it?

You have the 4R70W transmission, a very strong, robust transmission. It is the same one used in full size pickup trucks, and thus plenty strong. It is one of the finer points of the 5.0 drivetrain, IMO. I pull a travel trailer that weighs 5k with no additional cooler, and have a temperature gauge to monitor temps. I have never had my transmission exceed 200* while towing, well within the range of Mercon V. I wouldn't be concerned with towing the trailer you mentioned.

Also, is it worth getting the adjustable height draw bar? As I will be renting trailers not using the same one?

I would just get a 2" drop hitch, it is about right for most trailers. If it is too low, simply reverse it, it will be about level with your bumper. The adjustable ones are expensive and not necessary, trailer tongue height is not that critical most of the time. If you end up towing a trailer you own often, invest in a drop hitch suited to your trailer.

Thanks for your clarifications.

Welcome to the site! If you have any other questions, ask away.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto all that, and change your trans fluid/filter before you go. Buy Mercon V or a better synthetic, and welcome.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Ditto all that, and change your trans fluid/filter before you go. Buy Mercon V or a better synthetic, and welcome.

Good point Don, I forgot about a fluid change.

 

[Hokie]

I will be towing an enclosed trailer (5 x 8 or 4' x 8 depending on availability), holding a dining room (table 8 chairs, breakfront and base) set about 1,000 miles - some flat some with hills but not steep mountains, but all interstate.

All the way from Columbus, IN to Fort Collins, CO ~ 2 days, 1200 miles in the July heat



Only problem was crappy MPG's

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I passed that very sign on the way to Moab, I wanted to stop and take a picture like that. Didn't though-

 

[donh127]

more info - questions on 4R70W

Good point Don, I forgot about a fluid change.

Thank you both for quick and detailed answers.
I do not wish to cross forum lines but I see a lot in the transmission forum about transmission oil changes. That brings up other questions which seem controversial, and most recommendations are for the 4R55 not the 4R70W.

Do you do the filter and only 4 of the 14 quarts of ATF?
Do you have it flushed and get all 14 quarts and no filter?
Can you drive way this fluid change with out fancy equipment?

How do you know which synthetic fluids are compatible for Mercon V, and recommended?

Is an external trans filter recommended or is that over doing it? If so any specific units?

I did do a lot of forum reading to arrive at these questions, but some of this becomes a bit overwhelming to me. Please move this post if you prefer. Again - Thank you.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Thank you both for quick and detailed answers.
I do not wish to cross forum lines but I see a lot in the transmission forum about transmission oil changes. That brings up other questions which seem controversial, and most recommendations are for the 4R55 not the 4R70W.

Do you do the filter and only 4 of the 14 quarts of ATF?
Do you have it flushed and get all 14 quarts and no filter?
Can you drive way this fluid change with out fancy equipment?

The 4R70W has a drain plug in the torque converter, so a nearly complete change is possible without any equipment. Drop the pan, remove the filter. At the bottom of the bell housing is a rubber plug. Remove the plug and shine a light in there so you can see. There is a small pipe plug on the edge of the torque converter- you will probably have to bump the starter to get the plug in view. Alternatively, you can remove the dust shield and pull the converter around with a wrench. Remove that plug and let the converter drain- it will take a while.

You will need ~14 quarts of fluid and a filter. You need to re use your old pan gasket- don't discard it.

This would be an excellent time to add a drain plug to your pan. B&M makes a plug kit, you just drill a 1/2" hole in the pan and install it.

How do you know which synthetic fluids are compatible for Mercon V, and recommended?

Is an external trans filter recommended or is that over doing it? If so any specific units?

I did do a lot of forum reading to arrive at these questions, but some of this becomes a bit overwhelming to me. Please move this post if you prefer. Again - Thank you.

I use semi synthetic fluids, always Mercon V. Others prefer full synthetic, its a matter of preference.

I use an inline filter externally, it certainly won't hurt anything. You can get a simple inline filter or go more in depth with a filter block and spin on filter. FYI, Ford makes an inline transmission filter, that is what I am using on mine.

Its clear that you've been reading, you are asking intelligent questions and doing your own research, then asking when you don't understand. That's the way to do it

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, and Evan hit the answers well. Mercon V is a synthetic, and the aftermarket brands I hinted at are compatible, they just cost $8ish per quart. I want to go to Amsoil soon, but you have to order most of those special brands.

An extra outside filter is very wise, place it before the radiator/cooler if possible, it will keep them clean if a trans dies.

You could need 14qts., but 11 or so is more likely. The internals keep a couple of quarts trapped, the valve body has to be loosened to drain it all. Save that for another task, a valve body kit or shift kit. Regards,

 

[donh127]

Very good, and Evan hit the answers well. Mercon V is a synthetic, and the aftermarket brands I hinted at are compatible, they just cost $8ish per quart. I want to go to Amsoil soon, but you have to order most of those special brands.

I was looking up to see if any auto parts stores here carried the B&M #80250 Drain Plug Kit Evan recommended.

I did not realize that Mercon V was full synthetic until you pointed it out.

An extra outside filter is very wise, place it before the radiator/cooler if possible, it will keep them clean if a trans dies.

Do you have any suggestions for the external filter ? Should I put the Ford filter inline to the trans cooler? Would an external kit be better with the spin on filters? I'll check around tomorrow and see what is readily available and in stock.

The other thing I was trying to find out is which rubber hose going to the trans cooler is the pressure side? I saw it was the passenger side for the 4R55 but did not see on the 4R70W.

You could need 14qts., but 11 or so is more likely. The internals keep a couple of quarts trapped, the valve body has to be loosened to drain it all. Save that for another task, a valve body kit or shift kit. Regards,

I'll get 15 qts and have an extra - too far to walk for another Quart if I need it! Can always return it unopened.

Thanks for all your help. I have been reading up on the transfer case also and although I have not been able to identify it specifically, I am going to also change the fluid in it - probably something like Royal Purple - pricey but takes only 2 qt or a little less. I would never have attempted that without the forum articles.

 

[Hokie]

I passed that very sign on the way to Moab, I wanted to stop and take a picture like that. Didn't though-

Photo crop it. No one will be able to tell that I have green/dark green two tone instead of green/slate two tone

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I know Oriley Auto carries the drain plug kit, or at least the ones I go to do. I have seen them at Auto Zone as well.

If you have the time and money, a spin on filter would provide superior filtration and easier serviceability. I will probably go with a spin on when its time to change my inline filter.

As for which line is which, my pressure side was the passenger side line going into the cooler. The easy way to tell which one is to pull one line at a time, start the engine and see which ones spits fluid. That's what I did. You'll need help of course.

The transfer case is cake, just pull the lower plug and replace it, then fill. Like you said, it takes less than two quarts to fill it up. Mercon V is the way to go for it as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, the inline filter is much easier to do, I shall also later get to adding a kit with a spin on filter.

I'd skip the drain plug really. I've done a few, before everyone here started doing there's. A long time ago I discovered that it is easy to have a leak develop where the kit is installed. Basically they are not made very well. The seal of the kits to the pan is not very good, it is easy to have a leak start there. It is a matter of convenience, a drain plug is nice, but it isn't a big deal to do it without one, just take your time to not pour the pan all over the floor. I have a spare drain plug kit that I have chosen to not use for the last four vehicles that I have pulled the pans from. Good luck,

 

[donh127]

Hi,
I just wanted to let know know how things went - working in the driveway is a PIA for sure.

1) changed the rear differential put in Royal Purple synthetic with the limited slip supplement (note Royal Purple is only $9.99 per quart verses the Mobile one at almost double that). Could not get a oil sucker into the fluid enough to suck it out and finally took off the cover to drain it.

2) Changed the transfer case oil - put in maybe 1.4 Qts of Mobile 1 (could not get anymore out but that is all it would take.

3) pulled the inspection cover and dropped the torque converter plug (really hard to tap it over until you get the screw showing). Drained it.

4) dropped the trans pan - cleaned it - did not put in the trans pan drain plug. Changed the filter (one with cloth innards vs the screen). Of note - the little "eye-ball" was in the bottom of the pan so this was the first it was apart and filter changed in 100,000 miles and fluid was not burnt - maybe it had the machine put to it before as I can not imagine original fluid going 100,000 these days. Could not find the Motorcraft Mercon V so used Casterol Mercon V. Thanks to the tip on the converter drain plug - it took 12 qts on the refill.

Ran out of time on the front differential - save for another day.

Class III on it too so ready to do.

While auto parts stores will take used waste engine oil - they will NOT take trans fluid or gear oil. City does not take that either. Got to find a place to get rid of all this old stinky stuff!

Driveway needs a serious cleaning

Thanks so much for the guidance and suggestions.

 

[Hokie]

While auto parts stores will take used waste engine oil - they will NOT take trans fluid or gear oil. City does not take that either. Got to find a place to get rid of all this old stinky stuff!

Advanced Auto takes gear oil. Atleast the one here does. Don't know what to tell you about the tranny fluid though

 

[donh127]

gear oil trans fluid

Advanced Auto takes gear oil. Atleast the one here does. Don't know what to tell you about the tranny fluid though

That is too funny as they were the first to tell me motor oil only! I bought most of it at Advanced Auto actually. Crazy different areas different rules I Guess. I am in a Detroit suburb.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Around here, many shops burn used oil in special heaters, they take all types and use it for winter heat. Try a few shops and see if they will take it.

Glad to hear you got everything freshened up OK.