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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
i recommend the big 3 or 6 on every vehicle whether it has stock radio or an after-market sound system...less strain overall.
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It's not good to run it outside the vehicle it can get caught on a number of things plus the moving parts outside the vehicle. It's a lot more susceptible to chaffing and whatnot. A few people on there have done it but they have done everything they could to keep it safe and not out in the open, I would definitely think about doing the same, if not ruining it inside. If you're really going to I would be very careful and protect it as much as possible. You could run the 3 awt through your ex no problem if you wanted too and it's much safer. I have 1 awt and there's plenty of room for bigger wire.
underneath the vehicle is fine...just secure it to inside the frame rails.
There isn't a tutorial on upgrading anything other than the big three...I did it myself but just looking around for every ground strap I could upgrade. It all helps a lot.
My brights (head lights) even light up a lot faster than before the wire upgrades.
Pretty much what I'm talking about. You should see the **** we have come in here. Wires next to drive shafts, hanging, not zip tied, not strapped down, not loomed, etc. Just saying if you're going to do it, do it right.
Oh yeah, I was definitely going to strap it and try and secure it. I would make sure its not touching anything because part of my 4 guage was touching my exaust pipes (friend installed and did a ****ty job) and it almost burnt all the way through insulation. Don't want that happening again.
I will run through the car eventually, but I don't want to rip apart all of the pannels and everything after doing it in my friends range rover with 0 guage and now his dont go back how they are supposed to.
if the panels dont go back like they origianlly were just means the wire needs to be adjusted so they can.. if you take time and do it right it can be done man.. it justt requires patience and work
Like stated before there are many different kinds of wire. Theres 3/0 and 4/0 welding cable that is still plenty flexible it just takes a bit more patience.
A single run of 3/0 through the cab should be super easy to do. My truck had 20 runs of 1/0 front to back although I went under the truck for the most part but I didnt run into any problems at all....seats went into place perfectly and with the back seats up none of the wires were visible...and that includes another 20 runs of 1/0 from the back battery to my bussbars and 8 runs of 1/0 to the amps.
Also something everyone should know is that the rating of a given wire depends greatly on the length. You can pull 1000 amps through a 4 gauge wire if its 1" long.
Thats why SPL guys make their runs as short as possible...crxs have an advantage there...7 foot runs of wire front to back
okay, well that you said that you can fit that many runs of 0 guage, I think I'll try for the through the body of the car. Will it fit through the firewall where I currently have my 4 guage?
And yeah that's what I was looking at for the length of the wire and the amps. The table said something like 2/0 or 3/0 wiring with 20/25 ft would work with 200 or so amps. I can't remember exactly but I'll have to look at it to clear it up again.
The big size of the wiring would reduce strain overall right?
