32's or 33's and more...

I need to replace my 31's, and have not purchased, let alone installed, a body lift yet. I have what seems like more than enough room for more tire, but...

Do I just take the plunge and get the 3" PA lift? Or go for the 2" (less work I'm told).

If I keep my stock rims (15x7?) will 32x11.5's fit?

I'm really tempted to go with those Kumho Venture MT's. The look great on "paper". I want a bit more aggressiveness than the BFG AT's I have now. I loved them, but did note their limitations in gooey stuff, and slick rock and mud combos. I think an MT is in need. Are Kumho's too "cheap"? I can't see spending so much more for the BFG's or GOodyear MTR's or others. If you've run the Kumho's and like or dislike them, let me know.

I'm happy with my gears for now w/ the 31's, I don't think 32's will make much difference, but 33's will for sure. Now I'm looking at re-gearing and if I do that, I'd certainly get at least a rear locker. How much more money will that add to the total?

If I do this in separate installments, what's first? What's last?

I just need lots of info, and advice. Thanx,

 

[Texplorer]

Lift first, then tires, then gears and locker. If your gonna go with a body lift and are thinkin about the 2" you might as well go with the 3". You will regret not going the extra inch later. Its not that much more work than the 2". Regearing is gonna run AT LEAST $700 and a locker will be a couple hundred more depending on what you get. Remember you have to regear both diffys, not just one.

 

[jwrezz]

Oh yeah, and by the way, I know it's on here but:

Which body lift? Then what do I have to do in terms of bumpers and steering, and brake lines? I've got a '96. Thanx

 

[Redrig]

You will have to put in a steering exrension which I think comes with the lift. Bumper brackets will have to me fabricated so the bumpers line up. Brake lines will be fine, no need to extend them.

 

[Texplorer]

All what Redrig said, and its PA #883 body lift.

 

[glfredrick]

About the Kuhmo Venture MT's...

I am currently running a set of 31 x 11.50 x 15's on 8.5 aluminum on my 92 Ex. (My avatar photo). The tires are really good. They outperform the Goodyear MT's on real trails (eastern ones with mud and clay).

I have never had a leak or a puncture and I ran these tires on my Ranger for 2 years. They wear well and simply go where you point them. They balance out well (a sign of a good tire carcass - and very unlike anything made by Interco) and they do really well on the street in snow and rain.

Are they too cheap? I don't think so - the other tires are too expensive! You pay for a name. The Kuhmo's are being run in the SCORE off-road series in the Great Lakes states and they pound those tires to death - and the Kuhmo's are on the winning trucks pretty regularly.

The best thing about them is their flexability. They are made somewhat softer than a swamper or something, which means that you don't have to air down so low to get good off-road performance -- which also means that while all the other dudes are putting their tires back on the beads, you are still driving around. 18 PSI seems to be the magic number for mine. They will stick on rock steps and crawl right up.

 

[jwrezz]

Thanx for the info on the Kumho's. I'm going for them. 18psi tho? When I air down my BFG's I go down to like 25, but on road up to 45-50. What do you run on the road? Also, what about 32x11.5 on the stock 7" rims? If I go to 33's where can I get good rims in 15x8 or what ever I need for 33x12.5. Should I be going steel rim? Sorry for all the extra questions, but thanx for all the input so far!

 

[glfredrick]

I run them off-road at anything from full PSI -(around 40 for me) to 18 PSI on the low side (when I am working some rock that really needs the extra edging. Typically I air down to around 25 or so, which gives a nice footprint, good traction, and a softer ride across the jagged stuff.

I think that anything over 10.50 is begging for trouble on a 7" rim. 10.50's can already fit a 10" rim (makes them more square shouldered) but work good in trail situations with the 8" rims (protects the edge of the rim with the rubber sticking out). My 11.50's do real well on the 8" rims and the 12.50's that I am running on my Ranger are on 8" steel rock crawlers as well.

You can try them on the 7" rims, but I think that you are going to be unhappy - they may be a bit "squirmy" as the rim is too narrow for the tread footprint and they will also likely wear the centers out early.

If you need to go total cheapness, look for some of the white spoke whels in 15 x 8 - they sometimes sell for as low as 26-30 bucks a wheel. You can always paint them whatever color you like... As for where to get them, try some of the Internet sites for 4x4 parts. Especially check out some of the adds in the back of 4 x 4 magazines.

 

[Robert]

All what Redrig said, and its PA #883 body lift.

Not for the '95-'97 Explorers. The less expensive route is to use PA kit # 853. It comes with the correct steering extension. The steering extension from kit # 883 only works on '98 and up Explorers. To order the extension (if you can convince PA to sell it to you) runs about $90 with shipping.

 

[jwrezz]

Robert,
Your bumpers look great! Did you use the template on this board?

 

[Texplorer]

Robert,
I thought the PA #853 didnt come with the right bumper brackets for the front. I used 883 on my 96 and didnt have any problems, well I did have to make rear brackets like you have to do on both kits and I did have to grind my steering shaft down a little to fit in the extension but it was easier than having to make front brackets.

 

[jwrezz]

OK, so now for the sort of correct front bumper brackets but a steering extension that needs modification and home made rear bumper brackets I should get 883. For the right steering extension, but wrong front brackets I should get 853. Since I plan on getting the CRL customs front bumper, I may as well get the 853 then? Thanx again!

 

[Robert]

Robert,
Your bumpers look great! Did you use the template on this board?

I created the template.

 

[Robert]

Robert,
I thought the PA #853 didnt come with the right bumper brackets for the front. I used 883 on my 96 and didnt have any problems, well I did have to make rear brackets like you have to do on both kits and I did have to grind my steering shaft down a little to fit in the extension but it was easier than having to make front brackets.

Correct, the front bumper brackets from kit # 853 don't come close to fitting. The brackets from kit # 883 will work. The steering extension from kit # 853 works without modification, the steering extension from kit # 883 will require grinding since there is a metal nub on the steering shaft whereas the extension doesn't have the slot for it. It is cheaper to order the bumper lift brackets from PA than it is to order the steering extension (unless you want to go ahead and modify the extension from kit # 883). I was concerned with weakening the steering extension to the point that it might evenually fail so I wanted to use an unmodified one. The bumper lift brackets weren't hard for me to make so it became an easy choice.

If someone doesn't mind grinding out the steering extension to fit, then the cheapest route is kit # 883.

This only applies to '95-'97 Explorers since the steering extension from kit # 883 will work on the '98 and up Explorers without modifications.

 

[Texplorer]

I grinded the steering column end instead of grinding the extension itself. The column is way stronger after grinding than the extension would be.