5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[Scotts96sploder]

You are using a manual shift transfer case, you will simply run two wires from the t case to your instrument cluster for the 4hi and 4 low lights

That’s still in the maybe category, very low on the priority list. Currently working on modifying the D50 to accept standard U bolts and getting that all located under the front end as well as finding a home for the 79 4wd F series steering box, and of course plumbing and turning that.
Steering linkage
Shocks
Driveshaft
Brakes
Hydro assist?
Proportioning valve and rip out the ABS
Winch and wiring
Front bumper
It’s a long list yet. lol

 

[DintDobbs]

Having a list means having a plan.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Rear end is almost finished, started mocking up the front. IFS getting torn out today so I can start building structure to mount the springs to.
All the major parts are on the way including 40s.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Got all the IFS stuff torn out today, and kinds slid the 50 in below where it will live just to kinda see where mounts might end up.
Looks like the rear mounts will be easy, just behind the body mount on ruff stuff outriggers. Not sure about the front because I can’t move the axle up to ride height untill I cut out the crossmember.
Plan for that will be to weld in some 3/8x2-1/2 flat bar in the top of the crossmember hollow, and one on the top of the frame in front of the rad, then cut the crossmember. The plan is to mount a winch plate as low as possible and build off that for a the shackles and it will also act as bracing up there. Once I have that in place I’m going to make a removable engine crossmember so I can drop the pan if I want.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Got my hands on a stick welder so I could weld the tubes to the center section with Ni99 rod, and got that done. Started putting the front axle together, and I currently have the 5.38s and Yukon LS in the housing and almost set property. I figured I could do this job with bearing splitters and a press but I was wrong and I found out the hard way. Correct tools on the way to get that finished up. Also waiting on a free spin hub kit, it replaces the unit bearings with a normal spindle and serviceable bearings as well as 35 spline outers. I figure that’s going to make changing broken inner axle shafts (the “fuse” in this system) a bit easier. I went LS up front to avoid breaking shafts, but if I do, it’s easyish.
While I waiting on that, going to fix some small stuff:
I was told these sensors hidden behind the grill are some kind of crash sensor that can’t be unplugged? Looking for a second opinion on that, definitely unplugged them and I don’t want to put them back, the airbags are already gone.
Also the strut ball for the rear glass rotted off years ago, I looked but couldn’t find anything on replacing those, only the hatch ones. Are the 10mm? I could probably find some in the yard and weld them in, was thinking of just getting a kit of new stuff and making it fit, but I would like it to be the same size.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes airbag sensors unplug and remove no biggie

Ditching the unit bearings a very good idea! I love replacing wheel bearings on my 97 f350 w a true Dana 60
But hate it when it’s time to replace the unit bearings on our 01 excursion with the d50, $300 each!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yes airbag sensors unplug and remove no biggie

Ditching the unit bearings a very good idea! I love replacing wheel bearings on my 97 f350 w a true Dana 60
But hate it when it’s time to replace the unit bearings on our 01 excursion with the d50, $300 each!

Company called Spyntec makes them, I ordered mine with Warren hubs, around $1900 shipped. It’s pretty spendy but in theory I shouldn’t ever need to replace any of it assuming proper maintenance. Also no vacuum seal, so pulling the axle shaft is much easier, could potentially carry a spare for a trail repair. Also I feel like a pair of bearings spread apart should be stronger than a unit bearing. I’ve never had one apart but I assume it’s some tiny little bearings packed tight together.

 

[410Fortune]

The problem wit the superduty wheel bearings is quality… after the ford ones go out it is hard to find good replacements, the motorcraft “service grade” is the best option and they are $$$$$ and still not oem quality. It is easy to spend $600-800 on a set of front wheel bearings that will last 2-3 years… so the $1900 isn’t that far off considering.

I still drive a 1988 ($35 wheel bearings) and a 97 ($50 wheel bearings) lol lol

I cringe when our excursion needs front bearings or my wife’s FJ cruiser big $$$$