5.0 Camshaft Specs

Looking at ordering a cam for the mountaineer. Wondering what you guys are running, and how much lift I can get away with and still have enough piston-valve clearance.

I spoke with someone at Comp Cams about a custom ground cam and they were concerned that something running .530-.540 lift was going to be too much. Specs on a Ford Racing X and Z cam are greater than .540 anyways.

The motor was rebuild using stock design forged pistons and the head was milled .010.

As of right now I dont have any more exact specs on the cam because I was hoping to get the clearance issue clarified before going any further.

 

[techieman33]

If you want a custom cam contact a real cam designer, it will be far superior to a comp "custom" cam.

 

[Turdle]

x-303 camshaft notes
Please refer to (4)

NOTE: Camshaft intake and exhaust valve events are measured at 0.050" tappet lift. The duration figures in the shaded area are taken at 0.050" tappet lift. This is useful to check the cam with a degree wheel during installation. The solid color is advertised duration. For comparison purposes, add intake and exhaust lobe centers and divide by 2 to calculate "camshaft centerline" specification for Ford Racing camshafts. NOTES: (1) On EFI engines, performance camshafts work only with mass air induction systems. Will not work with Explorer EEC-V EFI. (2) Also fits 1994-97 351W with factory roller cam when used with mass air EFI. (3) Stock 5.0L HO cam advertised specs are 266�/266� duration, 0.444"/0.444" lift. (4) May require piston modification for piston-to-valve clearance. Valve clearance should be checked. (5) May require longer pushrods. (7) Hi-Stall torque converter recommended for automatic trans. (8) Emissions legal with 5-speed manual trans. E.O. #D-225-16 (9) Great for superchargers. Manual transmission recommended. (10) Good torque and power up to 6200 RPM. Manual transmission recommended. (11) Good torque and power up to 6500 RPM. Manual transmission recommended.


Z 303 camshaft notes--again refer to (4)

NOTE: Camshaft intake and exhaust valve events are measured at 0.050" tappet lift. The duration figures in the shaded area are taken at 0.050" tappet lift. This is useful to check the cam with a degree wheel during installation. The solid color is advertised duration. For comparison purposes, add intake and exhaust lobe centers and divide by 2 to calculate "camshaft centerline" specification for Ford Racing camshafts. NOTES: (1) On EFI engines, performance camshafts work only with mass air induction systems. Will not work with Explorer EEC-V EFI. (2) Also fits 1994-97 351W with factory roller cam when used with mass air EFI. (3) Stock 5.0L HO cam advertised specs are 266�/266� duration, 0.444"/0.444" lift. (4) May require piston modification for piston-to-valve clearance. Valve clearance should be checked. (5) May require longer pushrods. (7) Hi-Stall torque converter recommended for automatic trans. (8) Emissions legal with 5-speed manual trans. E.O. #D-225-16 (9) Great for superchargers. Manual transmission recommended. (10) Good torque and power up to 6200 RPM. Manual transmission recommended. (11) Good torque and power up to 6500 RPM. Manual transmission recommended.


For that amount of lift the pistons will need clearance cuts.

 

[mountyrob]

Ok here is a Question I have a AWD 00 Mountaineer V-8. I want to put in a E303 cam in it? I would like to know if anyone has ever done that?

 

[techieman33]

section525 and 410fortune have both run that cam.

 

[rocket 5979]

section525 and 410fortune have both run that cam.

Back when I had a 5.0 Explorer I had an E-303 cam in it too.

Ok here is a Question I have a AWD 00 Mountaineer V-8. I want to put in a E303 cam in it? I would like to know if anyone has ever done that?

The E-303 cam has been by far the most popular cam of choice on this site for the 5.0 Explorers. It is sure as heck not the best cam, but it will gain a bit of performance. If you just want something simple then E cam is ok. If you are really serious about making some real power then go with a custom cam for your 5.0 X.

 

[mountyrob]

E cam

Well I would like a cam that gives power and torque but don't have a lot of money and really don't want to have to put alot of other things in it or alot of money. I want to leave everything stock except the cam.

 

[RobSwindol]

I would like to get a little more air in my cylinders and was wondering if there was somthing less drastic I could do besides replacing the cam. Would longer pushrods or different rocker arms help me?

 

[Turdle]

I think you are on to something.
I am in the thought that more air needs to go out. If you can do this, more will go in. I would like to see what happens if a 1.7:1 rocker was installed on just the exhaust valves, with a set of torquemonster headers added to increase the flow even more.

Just a thought for conversation, but I bet the gains would be very noticeable.

 

[JCase]

1.6's on the intake and 1.7's on the exhaust is it way to go with a stock cam. Especially if you had a single pattern alpha cam.

 

[explorinitup]

you can even buy them in sets like that half 1.6 and half 1.7. i cant rember what they use for mounts tho 3\8 or 7\16???

 

[explorinitup]

sorry i think they are 5\16

 

[Rumblefox]

You guys are silly. Stop it. Stop the madness. Look, if you want to put a cam in your Sploder just to say you have a cam and have a little "giggity giggity" when you're idling up to the local "meet" or whatever, get like a B cam bro, or find a Trick Flow Stage 1, they're both bullshit OTS stuff that sounds cool and will make a little more power.

As for this changin' rocker's around nonsense, this is stuff people did back in the 80's, with their badass new Alan Root heads, know what I mean? Just use some decent 1.6's and call it a day. And with you guys, I'd suggest having a professional do the job.

As for the Comp cams "custom" dig, we are a dealer for them and speak with them on a regular basis. They are CUSTOM ground to specification for vehicle weight, application, yada yada, and cost us under $300...

 

[JCase]

you guys are silly. Stop it. Stop the madness. Look, if you want to put a cam in your sploder just to say you have a cam and have a little "giggity giggity" when you're idling up to the local "meet" or whatever, get like a b cam bro, or find a trick flow stage 1, they're both bullshit ots stuff that sounds cool and will make a little more power.

As for this changin' rocker's around nonsense, this is stuff people did back in the 80's, with their badass new alan root heads, know what i mean? Just use some decent 1.6's and call it a day. And with you guys, i'd suggest having a professional do the job.

As for the comp cams "custom" dig, we are a dealer for them and speak with them on a regular basis. They are custom ground to specification for vehicle weight, application, yada yada, and cost us under $300...

Word.