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5.0 egr removal

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Hartman

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Indianapolis, IN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 5.0
Searched and saw lots of frustrations on removing the egr, but not a lot of solutions. I don't see how you can get to the bottom bolt without removing the entire intake. I tried to remove just the intake elbow, but there isn't clearance to get the long bolts out. Can anybody post some tricks on how to remove this?
 



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Guess I'll stick to my original plan of pulling the engine:p:
 






I haven;t removed an egr valve from a internal egr v8 yet-however
I don't think those long bolts need be all the way out to remove the elbow. Still, pulling the upper intake is much simpler than pulling the engine.
 






On my intake elbow, there are 4 bolts that go into the intake. Two of them are 6" long bolts, the other two are 6" long posts with nuts on the end.
 






On my intake elbow, there are 4 bolts that go into the intake. Two of them are 6" long bolts, the other two are 6" long posts with nuts on the end.

Those studs should be threaded and will come out--they "should" be hexed on the ends for a very small socket to fit on to them.
 






They do have a hex on the end...but it makes me nervous putting that much torque on such a long stud. Guess I'll give it a try though.

After removing those bolts, it looks like I'll be able to pull the elbow forwards enough to get to the bolt.
 












I'd try a 1/4" socket with a 3/8" adapter and ratchet. Give the ratchet a few taps with a hammer to loosen the stud. Taps--not whacks. :D

Also tighten them just a we bit then loosen them. Trust me it works. My dad was a mechanic and taught me this.:)
 






Alright thanks. Hoping this solves the problem...I can tell the rubber diaphram is torn but the valve moves freely. The position sensor also seems fine.
 






5.0 egr

I just went ahead and pulled the intake manifold. Put a new gasket on and it runs better than ever!:cool:
 






I just went ahead and pulled the intake manifold. Put a new gasket on and it runs better than ever!:cool:

The whole manifold or just the elbow? If you removed the whole manifold, is there anything more to getting it off than just removing the visible bolts on the top?
 






The whole manifold or just the elbow? If you removed the whole manifold, is there anything more to getting it off than just removing the visible bolts on the top?

There are 2 more short ones on the ends-and 2 more long bolts under the "5.0 V8" plaque

The front "short" bolt is actually a nut, which you need to remove to get the coil pack bracket off. Then there is another "nut head" under the coil bracket which actually turns the threaded stud out.



Mark all the vacuum hoses-there are quite a few under the upper plennum. You might have someone take pictures . You should be able to leave the throttle cables attached. Hmmm, what am I missing?

Oh,
there is a metal crossover coolant tube-it runs from the water pump across the passenger side lower intake and connects to 2 hoses for the heater core. You should be able to see this

About 8 inches back from where they connect to the water pump hose and lower intake--you will see them "T" off to a smaller hoses. These connect to the upper intake right "downstream" of the elbow. You may want to disconnect these so be sure to drain some coolant before you start.

Of course you want to disconnect the battery before you start. Just to be safe
 






What a pain in the dick.
 












Turdle help me I'm going to go insane. Now I'm throwing the, you guessed it, 401 code after replacing the EGR. :thumbdwn: Did a couple of tests and decided that the vacuum solenoid was the culprit. It was cheap enough to replace, but shocker! It did not fix the problem. I have checked every single god damn vacuum line for leaks by spraying carb cleaner on them and I have found nothing, the lines are in great condition. While searching, 99% of threads say a faulty DPFE sensor is the culprit, but since I don't have one, I'm not sure where to go from here.

The engine runs like a damn top, this is quite annoying.
 






I guess I could throw another $30 and replace the EGR position sensor, although when I had it out it moved freely and I don't see how something like that could fail.
 












Well I replaced the position sensor and drove all day....seems to be good now.
 






Replaced mine last weekend, Yeah what a pain! wish I had a stubby wrench to get that bottom nut.

Faulty EGR Valve, replaced the solenoid for good measure and tested the Sensor (which was Good).

First time my Service engine light was out in about 2 years, now I keep thinking something is wrong ( I am so used to seeing it)....where is that service engine illuminator
 



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ok so doing an EGR delete ill require some ECU trickery will it not?
 






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