93 Explorer XLT 4WD Repair Project

[ats314]

So I was given a 1993 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD. It's in pretty good shape but needs some repairs. Here is the project I have ahead of me with all parts listed. This is all based on the best research I was able to do and a lot of great advise from you guys. Now I'm just looking for some advise on if I have the right parts and what tools I will need to do the jobs.

REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES:
[Spark Plugsx6](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...ug/_/N-izqtdZ9n80x?itemIdentifier=870936_0_0_)
[Wireset](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Bosch-Wireset/_/N-izqtdZ9n806?itemIdentifier=174740_0_0_)

REPLACE FUEL FILTER:
[New Fuel Filter:](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa..._/N-izqtdZ8gd7g?itemIdentifier=618423_0_6138_)

REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS:
[1 set of front brake pads](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../_/N-izqtdZ8ko29?itemIdentifier=90015_0_1610_)
[2 rotors](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...izqtdZ8knrq?itemIdentifier=65374_172993_4825_)

REPLACE UPPER AND LOWER BALLJOINTS:
[Lower Ball Joints](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-izqtdZ8oxla?itemIdentifier=742049_0_0_3708)
[Upper Ball Joints](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-izqtdZ8oxkv?itemIdentifier=742031_57283_0_)

REPLACE RADIUS ARM BUSHINGS:
[1 set of radius arm bushings](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...izqtdZ8oxsy?itemIdentifier=89637_240226_4222_)

ADDITIONAL TOOLS/ACCESSORIES I WILL BE PURCHASING:
[1 floor jack and set of floor stands](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...stand-kit/_/N-255z?itemIdentifier=693255_0_0_)
[175 pc set of mechanics tools](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-tool-set/_/N-25bq?itemIdentifier=914103_0_0_)
[Brake Cleaner](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...rts-cleaner/_/N-25h0?itemIdentifier=8130_0_0_)
[Grease](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...se-grease/_/N-25ap?itemIdentifier=561696_0_0_)

TOOLS I WILL BE BORROWING FROM AUTOZONE:
[1 Ball Joint Press](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...rByKeyWord=BALL+JOINT+PRESS&fromString=search)
[1 Ball Joint Separator](http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-264r?itemIdentifier=555664&_requestid=283249)

THOUGHTS AND QUESTIONS:
My Explorer is a 4WD. I have the 4WD option selected in the Autozone profile, so I assume the parts listed are for the 4WD model, but if I have anything wrong please let me know. Any general advise on additional tools needed would be very much appreciated.
So I guess I'm about ready to get the wheels off the ground and see how it goes. Also, if anyone is in the Portland, OR area and would like to assist in anyway please do not hesitate to contact me. I will be documenting the process as I begin, so expect plenty more questions from me soon

Edit: In case you're wondering, all in for the parts and tools (minus deposit for tools borrowed) came out to $404.10. Not bad compared to the $2,500 repair estimate from the mechanic.

edit2: Also, if there are any other repairs or tune-ups that I could do easily while I am doing these, that would be very helpful as well.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Spark plugs - Perhaps the most greatly debated subject in the forum. I like to run the original factory Motorcraft AWSF42PP. But they are hard to find. I also ran Autolite copper plugs before that.

Wires - Again, fair debate item. The closest factory correct item is Motorcraft WR4062, Amazon.com has those for $38. I'm running carquest generics, I'll probably go to the Motorcraft plugs next year, unless I upgrade my coilpack and have to buy super premium wires.

Fuel Filter - WIX 33296. Not a big fan of Fram.

Brake Pads - I like a ceramic pad better, you may have to do some searching, Orielly's has them.

Add - Brake hardware kit, and caliper slide grease.

Rotors - Look good!

Add wheel bearings (Timken SET 37 x 4) many people here have had bad times on cheap bearings. Timken products are available through RockAuto.
Add seal, (Timken 4250 x 2).

Ball joints - I'm going to mess up your budget on this one, but cheap ball joints do not do well in explorers. Suggest Raybestos Professional Grade, Lower #5051145 x 2, Upper #5001066 x 2. RockAuto.

Radius Bushings - Rubber bushings don't last, you need poly. Go with Moog K80007.



Tools - Add a fuel line tool, see other threads. Jack and stands, I would like to suggest going to a 3 or 4 ton jack. It will lift higher and will last longer. I changed up to a Craftsman 3 ton floor jack.

Add - 5/8 spark plug socket with integrated universal joint. A few plugs are hard to get to, this helps a lot.

Add - For the radius bushing work, you will need to remove rivets. That's going to be a 3/8 or larger drill, drill bits, and a 4-1/2" angle grinder.

Add - 1/4" drive 12 point 6mm short socket. This exact tool is required to remove the ABS sensor. Amazon: Westward 1EZU3 Socket.

The tool set looks good to start with. If you have a second car to make parts/tool runs, then you can buy everything else as needed.

Add grease gun and Mystik JT-6 Hi-temp grease cartridge. That will take care of both your ball joints and wheel bearings.

Other things you may need to deal with along the way:

U-Joints (again, buy good ones!)

You will have an opportunity to grease the passenger side axle slip joint. That takes a special grease, Ford dealer #XG-8. A tube at the dealer will do all the joints on your truck twice. It cost about $10 at my dealership. You could probably substitute the Mystic JT-6 for it.

You should probably do the spindle bearings and seal while you are doing the ball joints. Timken SBK4 x 2. See this thread:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254

I used that thread as the basis for all the front end work I did.

More other things:
Sway bar bushings and/or links.
Tie rod ends.
Shocks.

More tools: To get the spindle off, there's a bunch of bolts, then it is just rusted into the knuckle. I found the best tool to get it off was a disposable 1" wood chisel, and a big, no, a very big hammer. Put the flat face of the chisel against the knuckle, and pound the edge of the chisel into the spindle/knuckle interface.

More tools: 1/2" breaker bar, 1/2" torque wrench, snap ring pliers.

I don't really know your budget, but I'm recommending a tool I recently purchased and wish I had a long time ago: Milwaukee 6147-30 angle grinder. I used it with a wire wheel cup to clean parts, a cutoff wheel to deal with a stubborn U-joint, and a grinding wheel for some misc tasks. It's not cheap, maybe $80. You will be reaching for it every 10-15 minutes on a job like this, and it's going to make your work better and faster.

Also, you know, this is personal preference. I didn't do this until I started working on the explorer. But, when you are done, this is going to be, possibly, a new life accomplishment for you. Take it to the next level and get a couple of cans of spray paint, and paint your parts. Then, when you show off your accomplishment, it will really look good!

I also recommend purchasing the Elite package on this forum. You are going to be doing a lot of research here, and it is good karma to support it.

 

[Currency]

Will agree with Roadrunner on everything except the ceramic pads, I have had personal experiences with them overheating and losing my ability to stop nearly completely.
Was when I was younger on my 99 malibu but of course attempting to stop from 100 plus is hard on any braking system. Under normal driving these worked pretty good but wore rather quickly. Perhaps again, it was because of my driving style back then. Was younger and always enjoyed driving faster than everyone. Paid for it as well with many speeding tickets.

Autozone does carry or can order the Timken wheel bearing and seals but Rockauto is generally cheaper. You should visit their website. Depending on whether or not you have auto hubs or manual you will need a socket to remove the hub nut.

www.rockauto.com

I used the same method to remove the spindle on my explorer as Roadrunner suggested. It works but does take several minutes of pounding to get the spindle to come off.

Used the same RA bushings on my explorer as well. 207k miles and still running.

 

[ats314]

Wow, Roadrunner, better info than I could have hoped for. I'm going to by every part you suggested, including the angle grinder. All of that info is amazingly helpful. Thank you so much. Oh and I love the idea about painting the parts. You are absolutely right, this will be a huge life accomplishment for me, one that I will be really proud of when I finish I wanting to show off : ). I'll also look into the membership very soon.

 

[mr cribb]

You just missed the 2 for 1 elite special.... I was on here almost a year, thought about spending the $20, then seen the 2 for 1, and jumped on it.

Glad you're tackling the job yourself, it's a good experience and pride in the end when it's all done.... plus it's FAR cheaper than sending it to a shop.

Myself I like motorcraft for plugs and wires, but like Roadrunner said, it's a very debatable subject. For u joints I bought the $9 ones from advance, they seem very heavy duty (in size) compared to the 205k mile motorcrafts I pulled out.

Agree on the jack, my cheap 2 1/4 ton jack crapped out on me. It was a $30 parts store special w/ jack stands.... junk.

One thing to add... repair manuals. I'd buy both chiltons and haynes manuals for those moments you can't get to the computer. IMO chiltons is better for repair, and haynes is good for the troubleshooting in the front of the book.

 

[DeRocha]

Another tip is to add your location to your profile... Other local member may offer some help/advice and even turn a wrench or 2..

 

[mrvh]

On brakes we have been running Hawks HPM pads with cross drilled /slotted rotors, and could be happier.

 

[Happy Jack]

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...2&i_cntr=1324625189945&sid=IDx20070921x00003c

Buy this if you can't rent/borrow it with a slide hammer. It will pull your spindles off straight instead of ****ing them in the bore by beating on one side then the other. 2-3 good hits with the slide hammer is all it takes. Be sure to screw it all the way on. The right tool makes all the difference.