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(97 XLT V6 OHV 4WD) Realistic expectations for MPG?

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March 24, 2018
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City, State
Old Fort, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Explorer XLT 4WD
I know what the official number is but again it's a 21 year old SUV. I need to replace the air filter and the rear tires. Fuel pump has already been replaced. As it stands I was able to get about 210 on the last tank with reasonable windows down driving. This tank I've spent most of the driving windows up and I think I can get at least 240 out of it.



Anything else I should be checking? What MPG should I be expecting after I solve those two issues?
 



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The best I have ever got was 24, that being almost all interstate or highway, cruise control as much as possible, and the climate control set to off. Typically average now around 16-19. Check engine light is on though.
 






Miles per tank is a terrible way to gauge anything. You’ll likely get in the 15-20 range depending on where and how fast you are driving.
 






Mine usually gets around 15, most of my driving is short distances in the city. The lowest mpg I've recorded was 14 after towing a trailer with O/D off. I haven't recorded anywhere near 20 mpg in years.
 






In the winter about 14 to 17 (when it's cold I let it warm up a bit before I go anywhere) plus winter gas, so not a good reading for mpg.
summer 17 to 20mpg
Hardly any highway mostly country roads and some city.
 






The question of what MPG to expect is simple, but sadly almost impossible to answer in a way that really helps with anything.

The problem already starts with the "simple task" of measuring the used fuel. Filling up the gas tank all the way to the top is already not as easy and simple as it should be because of the shape of the gas tank and the pumps starting to shut of way before the tank is full. I can usually slowly fill almost 4 gallons into the tank after the pump at the gas station starts shutting off the first time.

Then there are also all the factors than impact MPG of any car such as the environment you drive in ( is it flat or hilly, cold or warm, in the country or downtown....)

Then it depends on the type of fuel you put into your tank.

And it also greatly depends on your personal driving style and how efficient you drive.
(I enjoy driving kind of quick and sporty, but on he other hand whenever possible, I for example look ahead and approach red traffic lights slowly. I slow my car down very early far before the light to roll up to the traffic light slower, in order to avoid bringing the car to a full stop. That way I can often keep it rolling do not have to accelerate all the way back up from a full stop. That saves fuel and gives me a speed advantage over any car standing still when the light turns green, and I can easily pass them after the light while they accelerate.)

I always monitor my MPG when I fill my tank up, by habit to keep an eye on my cars performance. It helps notice when something starts going bad.
The MPG I keep track of varies pretty considerably.
In the two and a half years since I have my car I've moved 4 times and the usual MPG I got out of my car always changed because I drove in different locations. I moved from living right in the middle of downtown to a suburb in the southside of the city over to a suburb on the west side and then another 10 miles further out onto an island, where I now do most of my smaller errands on foot and for anything else I have to take a highway and drive 10 miles. So my driving habits and with that the MPG I got out of it changed considerably whenever I moved, because I used my car very differently depending on where I was.

I always just get the cheap regular 87 octane fuel (but even that can actually vary in "quality" quite considerably and on occasions you can sometimes get lucky to receive higher grade fuel without knowing. On the other hand of course you can also end up being cheated on by a bad shop and fill your tank with a considerable amount of fancy $3 per gallon air bubbles in addition to the fuel.)
Anyways, that being said:
Downtown I used to get as low as 14 to 16 MPG sometimes less than 14, but I drove much less.
Now living on the island I get round 17 sometimes up to 19.
While working on my AC and letting the engine idle a lot I only got 12 MPG out of a full tank.
My best MPG on a longer trip, driving only on all flat highways through Florida with cruise control for days was over 20 MPG, almost 21 MPG.
 






You aren’t supposed to totally fill the tanks in any modern cars. I don’t like adding to the nearest dollar, let alone 4 extra gallons.
 






You aren’t supposed to totally fill the tanks in any modern cars. I don’t like adding to the nearest dollar, let alone 4 extra gallons.
Well, with the fuel level gauges of the car not being anywhere nearly precise enough and the pressure switches shutting the fuel pumps off also not being consistent, plus filling gas into a tank being a highly dynamic and turbulent process, filling a gas tank up is the only way to really get anything like a half what reliable basis for measuring the amount of fuel used and thus measuring the MPG. And even then you"ll need to average over long driving distances and over several tank fillings to allow a determination of the MP in a way that is at least slightly reliable and that can have at least somewhat of a scientific value to it.

When you fill the gas tank on the Explorer, due to the gas tanks shape and because the pump fills in fuel at such a quick rate, the air inside the tank can't come out fast enough. And as the tank quickly fills up higher and higher the air inside the top of tank will build up pressure and start escaping the tank periodically. This then again causes the fuel flowing into the tank to periodically back up and trigger the switch on the gas pump to shut it off "long before" the tank is even close to being all full.
(On my Explorer Sport the pump usually shuts off the first time - that is when letting it fill all quick - when the 17.5 gallon tank is only a little over 3/4 full.)

It's basically a similar effect as the one you have when turning a water bottle upside down to pour the water out.
If you don't spin the bottle to create a constant "air tunnel" the water will spout out of the bottle only periodically while letting the air from outside bubble up into the bottle periodically to equate the pressures.
Because of this dynamic process going on when filling the tank, you simply don't end up with a comparable or constant tank filling to calculate any MPG from unless you fill up the tank very slowly, which most fuel pumps will barely do (not even when pressing the handle very little and gently). When you fill the tank slowly and the pressure switch on the pump then shuts it off, that's when you absolutely need to stop filling and certainly shouldn't add any more fuel to avoid over filling and spilling fuel.
 






Best I've ever gotten on my 5.0 EB RWD was 22-23 MPG under the most ideal conditions possible. 15-17 MPG is more typical (mostly around town rural). I've found the AWD/4WD get a bit worse mileage (1.5-2 MPG) due to the added weight.

All 3 possible engine choices seem to get about the same MPG.

So much depends on how/where you drive, letting your truck warm up before driving, sitting in traffic or in drive-in lines, your tires/tire pressure, your differential gear ratio, how much stuff/number people you're carrying around and how much fuel you got into the tank during your last fill-up that it's not realistic to get to hung-up on your MPG. If you're seeing between 15-17 MPG you should consider this good and fairly normal, but your results may vary. Driving w/windows open will reduce your MPG due to increased drag.

BTW - Having a dirty air filter does little to reduce MPG as your MAF sensor will compensate.
 






My Mounty fills up extremely regularly. I can usually guess it to within a half gallon, and always within a gallon of how much it will take to fill it. My MPG is also extremely consistent.
 






With my 16" tires and 4.10 I get 14 avg on the computer mostly local short trips. On a long road trip, maybe 21. This is around the EPA numbers. Remember the EPA tests with the highest gearing and smallest tire (from what I read). So is it a true YMMV. Those options are probably 2ish mpg. Those options make your engine spin more so more gas is used.
 






For reference, mine is a '97 OHV Sport 4WD with 235/75/R15 tires, 3.27 gears, 5sp manual, 128K miles, no exterior mods that would drag air. Recently changed plugs to Autolite Double Iridium (that gave me a MPG boost alone), full synthetic in tranny, t-case, rear gear. Before those improvements I drove it from VA to WY, tracked 16-18MPG on interstate doing 75MPH or less. After, I'm back at 19-20MPG including hill driving, typically 70MPH driving, and I get 22 running 88 octane no ethanol fuel with a noticeable HP boost as I can go up hills without downshifting where I couldn't before running standard 10% ethanol added fuel. I definitely don't hotrod it, always do the speed limit or even lower as I get a vibration above 75.

I usually get at least 300 miles per tank, but I don't let it get too empty out here as it's very easy to be over 50 miles from any gas station. I don't let it get much below a quarter.
 






Update

Was finally able to get a good measurement after getting it near empty.

The final tally after replacing the air filter with a clean Motorcraft OEM one, mostly highway, a balance between sporty and conservative driving with cruise control, no windows down, and very rare A/C usage (I do it mostly for passengers) the MPG I was able to calculate was 15. I guess that's not the worst thing in the world but I will def keep trying to improve.
 






In the winter about 14 to 17 (when it's cold I let it warm up a bit before I go anywhere) plus winter gas, so not a good reading for mpg.
summer 17 to 20mpg
Hardly any highway mostly country roads and some city.
I get the same 17 20 mpg
And I warm up 5 min in summer 10 in winter
My gramps beat it in to me prob don't need to but I get this weird feeling in the back of my head if I dont
 






Update

Was finally able to get a good measurement after getting it near empty.

The final tally after replacing the air filter with a clean Motorcraft OEM one, mostly highway, a balance between sporty and conservative driving with cruise control, no windows down, and very rare A/C usage (I do it mostly for passengers) the MPG I was able to calculate was 15. I guess that's not the worst thing in the world but I will def keep trying to improve.
Tank level has nothing to do with getting a good measurement.
 






Update

Was finally able to get a good measurement after getting it near empty.

The final tally after replacing the air filter with a clean Motorcraft OEM one, mostly highway, a balance between sporty and conservative driving with cruise control, no windows down, and very rare A/C usage (I do it mostly for passengers) the MPG I was able to calculate was 15. I guess that's not the worst thing in the world but I will def keep trying to improve.

I took my grandson to the Tennessee Aquarium last week. That's about an hour and a half drive from my house. The majority of the drive is flat highway with maybe 25 miles on a hilly local secondary road. I drove my '01 EB 5.0L with 200K+ miles on it (2WD w/3:73 gears). The highway speed limit was 70 but I kept the speed down to around 62-65 using cruise control. My trip computer showed 24+ MPG on the way up with A/C. On the return MPG was a bit lower at 23.4 (temps in the mid 90's). Not bad for a 4 door V8 with 3 people on board.
 






Too bad the trip computer is fairly inaccurate for no reason on these trucks.
 






Too bad the trip computer is fairly inaccurate for no reason on these trucks.

Well around town (country/rural) I typically see 15 'ish so I don't think it's too far off. Trying to measure MPG by refilling the tank isn't very accurate either, as unless you fill it to the point where it's spilling out there's no good way of judging "full" and there's quite a difference between when the gas pump shuts off and the maximum that you can squeeze in there. Anyway it doesn't really matter other than to judge state of tune. Unless you do a Myth Busters track run with a graduated beaker of fuel MPG is just an estimate anyway. I did measure my SOHC Sport Trac with 4:10's by refilling once and saw something around 17 MPG (hwy) using the refill method. If I was all that concerned about MPG I'd buy a Honda Fit, but I wouldn't be caught dead driving a vehicle like that.
 






I’d be willing to bet the refill method is more accurate then the inflated numbers the trip computer reports. So far my Kia is within a 1/2 mpg between the reported mileage and the refill method calculation.
 



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Tank level has nothing to do with getting a good measurement.

How else am I supposed to do it without spending $100 on those little digital things to check it?

Too bad the trip computer is fairly inaccurate for no reason on these trucks.

I don't know what wrong with your guys odometer but mine is pretty accurate give or take a mile (was able to confirm after getting gas and driving home).
 






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