A/C Rear Line Leak

[justjim_pia]

My understanding is that the vacuum pump does not pull out the oil or not enough to cause an issue. The oil is a liquid and the pump is mainly pulling a static vacuum, so there's no real air flow to pull the liquid. The gas is suspended, so it can be pulled out.

Another reason to add the oil first is after you evaccuate and check that it holds the vacuum pressure, you charge it with refrigerant without opening the system. It would be difficult to near impossible to add the oil without breaking the seal and exposing it to moisture.

Mine failed at 130k Miles here in Illinois on a 2011 Explorer. I cleaned the pinhole leak and used some aluminum “brazing” rod from Harbor Freight, evacuated and recharged the system and it has held for a week. I’m treating this as a patch and sorting out a more permanent fix when it fails again. I wound up using an bernzomatic oxygen/propane torch since straight propane took forever to get enough heat in the area so everything became rather hot (I didn’t take anything apart!). Anyhow, “it works for now” as I sort out a more permanent fix whenever it goes again.

 

[peterk9]

Although it's on a bend, I think that might easily be 'fixed' with a piece of rubber and a hose clamp. Did that to one of my copper water lines 25 years ago and still holding.

Peter

 

[Professor_Tomorrow]

Welcome to the Forum Professor_Tomorrow.
Please keep us in the loop if you go ahead with this repair. Thanks.

Peter

I finally got around to taking some pictures of the repair. I used the Dorman repair kits, which in my opinion are over priced for what they are, to block off the lines. I cut the lines in a straight run that was a few inches long. I made the 'repair' as shown in the pictures as close to the rear evap unit as possible. I'm still on the look out for some 'donor' lines to splice in from the blocks back to the evap connection.

 

[Kmpcfp]

I have a 2015 Ford Explorer. It just started leaking an oily almost fluorescent dark green fluid from a tube behind the rear driver tire. What is it? Is it an easy fix?

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Looks like ac magic juice to me

 

[Toddman41]

Probably a rear AC leak that has had dye added to the refrigerant.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

What is it? Is it an easy fix?

It is a leak in the rear A/C system (which has likely disabled the front A/C also due to lack of refrigerant).

No, it is not an easy fix.

The leak source must be isolated, the leaking part(s) replaced, and the system restored to operating condition (vacuuming and recharging properly).

Probably not a job for a casual DIYer unless you're really, really handy and have access to the proper tools and equipment (or will acquire them) to do the job right.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yes 100% ac dye. Good thing is you located the leak someone else has been looking for (factory charge does not have dye). It's probably that connection leaking, sometimes the hardware will rust and loose tension. It could also be the Evaporator in the rear box leaking down.

If it came into my shop I'd evacuate whatever is left, clean it up, inspect, replace seals and recharge with dye to see if the problem is solved. This is the cheapest/ easiest repair. I have seen those pipes damaged from road debris as well and there is various methods of repair you can do if that is the case.

Replacing the whole rear lineset in any suv regardless of make /model is usually expensive. They are pretty long and usually fish into the most contorted crazy places to protect them.

 

[peterk9]

I have a 2015 Ford Explorer. It just started leaking an oily almost fluorescent dark green fluid from a tube behind the rear driver tire. What is it? Is it an easy fix?

Your thread has been merged with this one on the same issue. If you don't use the rear A/C unit you can block it off as some have done.
Good luck and keep in touch.

Peter

 

[Kmpcfp]

Yes 100% ac dye. Good thing is you located the leak someone else has been looking for (factory charge does not have dye). It's probably that connection leaking, sometimes the hardware will rust and loose tension. It could also be the Evaporator in the rear box leaking down.

If it came into my shop I'd evacuate whatever is left, clean it up, inspect, replace seals and recharge with dye to see if the problem is solved. This is the cheapest/ easiest repair. I have seen those pipes damaged from road debris as well and there is various methods of repair you can do if that is the case.

Replacing the whole rear lineset in any suv regardless of make /model is usually expensive. They are pretty long and usually fish into the most contorted crazy places to protect them.

I have owned this vehicle since new, and I have never had a problem with the A/C. Unless it somehow got recharged with a Ford Service package, I have no clue how the green dye got in. Thank you though, it is helpful to know what it is and not something that needs to be urgently repaired.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yeah unless you want a/c there is no other concern. I do remember seeing Ford start adding dye from factory but I didn't think it was that early / thought it was like 2017 or so when the 1234yf refrigerant came into play.

Like I said hardest part having an ac issue is finding the leak, you've won half the battle and didn't know it yet.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

Ford has been adding UV dye to the AC systems for quite a long time.

 

[Kmpcfp]

I just had an estimate for a repair and the Ford dealership service department just quoted me $1500+ to replace the lines. He said since it was a leak in the low and high pressure lines it couldn't be patched. Is this that the service department won't patch it or is it because it literally can not be patched? Would other mechanics be able to successfully patch a high pressure AC line? Thanks

 

[peterk9]

Do you know exactly where the leak is in the line? That could also affect whether or not it could be 'patched'.

Peter

 

[Kmpcfp]

Do you know exactly where the leak is in the line? That could also affect whether or not it could be 'patched'.

Peter

I am assuming somewhere under the foil wrap thing as pictured. It looks like maybe it was punctured somehow.

 

[peterk9]

Hard to say without actually seeing the 'puncture'. There have been some DIY fixes that have been posted in this thread along with blocking off the rear A/C unit if it isn't needed.

Peter

 

[boominXplorer]

Just depends on location. If it's right on the bend then you'll need a good bent section out of the junkyard to compression connect to your existing lineset. Then there's an extra junction to leak at a later date....

Not sure if anyone knows but R134A has gone up over 300% in price in the past 6 months

 

[padjoe]

So I have the same issue. I have pin hole leak in aluminum.
2016 65000 miles.
I decided to replace with the rubber hoses from ACS.
They just arrived, thought I would post what I got maybe it'll help some people.

 

[padjoe]

A quick look with fish tape to see gap around fuel tank.
Looks like there's room. It'll be tight maneuvering the blocks through.
I'll try without cutting first.

 

[padjoe]

Well it's a little too tight for me to chance forcing it and tearing these expensive hoses. So I'll test the connection blocks to ensure a good fit at the front and back then I'll cut out the old pipes with a mini pipe cutter.