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Advice on a sub setup

Silverblade

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Year, Model & Trim Level
97 SOHC
Ill keep it short and simple. I am doing a custom f/g set up and I am not sure what I want to run. The amp is a 1100.1 JBL.

Either 2 12" Kicker L7s
2 12" JL w6s
or 1 13.5" JLw7

I am assuming the 2 12s would move more air than the one 13.5

If anyone has any other sub suggestions I am all ears.
I might consider 2 L5s aswell because they fit better into the power range of my amp.

thanks.
 



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i am assuming your amp is the monoblock one that puts out 1100w right? what kind of music do you listen to? if you are more into rap/hip hop, i would go with the 13w7. if you are more into rock or dance music where the bassline is a lot faster, i would go with something smaller. the 12w6's are some of the best subs you can get, so i would probably go with those. another thing you may want to check out is alpine type r's. they are rated at 500w each so two of them will match up pretty well with your amp. type r's are probably the tightest hitting subs you can get. tight hitting subs wont make as big a difference depending on what music you listen to. anyway, i would definitely either go with jl or check out alpine's line of subs.
 






my vote's for dual w6v2's. I got the w6v2 when it first came out in the back of my ex and while it's only a 10" that thing is still putting out tight, solid bass across the spectrum. people regularly think it is at least a 12" based on it's output and sound quality. however from what I've heard and read the w7 is very similar, it's just I've had mine working perfect for so long I have to recommend it.

btw for reference i listen to all types of music from modern jazz to alternative to (good) hip-hop. choose the jl's and you'll be happy with them for years to come.
 






How much space are you going to give up??

What are the specs on that amp???

The W6 is an awesome sound quality subwoofer...not one for major bass and air movement unless in a correct enclosure.

I love Type R...awesome subs for the price.

A 13W7 will play anything you throw at it...its not just for rap and hip hop. It is also an amazing woofer.

90 percent of the sound from a subwoofer is enclosure dependent.

Sealed boxes though...I wouldn't go with Type R's...they suck in sealed boxes. Their parameters are more toward ported.

Kicker L7s sound like crap in sealed enclosures also...I hate the way they sound. Sound weak and not enough low end.

What kind of music do you listen to??
 






i'd also agree with aznboi, the subwoofer is only 1/3 of the equation, the box and amp are just as important. ported is best for "one-note bass", sealed is best for sound quality.

just to prove the point look up "EAW LA400", it's a sub with a single 12" woofer loaded into a 6' folding horn path and puts out 140db peak, all because of a properly designed box.

here's the jbl page I found on the amp...
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BPX1100.1/230&CheckProduct=Y
 






ported is NOT best for "one not bass" Sealed is also not best for sound quality.

There are many many different types of enclosures and alignments out there that have there pros and cons. Many I don't know much about but saying ported is best for one note burps and sealed is best for sound quality leads me to believe that you don't know much about enclosures and design.

Common misconception about ported boxes is that most people have only heard subs in non-specific ported enclosures that are too small and tuned too high, having a very peaky/"one note" sound.

A properly designed ported enclosure can sound better and play lower with a flatter response than a sealed alignment.
 






Common misconception about ported boxes is that most people have only heard subs in non-specific ported enclosures that are too small and tuned too high, having a very peaky/"one note" sound.

A properly designed ported enclosure can sound better and play lower with a flatter response than a sealed alignment.

is it possible, sure, but overall 99% of ported boxes are not suitable for the subs they carry, do they work? sure, but sound quality wise you can get a much more even sound in a smaller space with a sealed box, only at the expense of slightly more power to drive the sub (which you have plenty of in a car). and on the subject of sound quality you should know that when you have a ported box it's frequency response drops off much faster than the same sub in a sealed box, due to the port, not great if you want a flat response.

sure, a ported box increases the efficiency of the woofer but at the expense of a uniform frequency response in MOST cases, and since I doubt most people on here have the slightest inkling on how to create a proper ported box, the simple answer of ported is better for one note and sealed for SQ is easiest for the majority to understand since this is the typical result. also since a ported box takes up much more space than a sealed one and for most of us space is at a premium (unless you bought an SUV and decided not to use it's cargo space for cargo) a sealed box fits easier.

...but saying ported is best for one note burps and sealed is best for sound quality leads me to believe that you don't know much about enclosures and design.

believe me i know plenty about loudspeakers, it is my profession, and not as some hacky dj, but as a sound mixer and technology specialist in the entire field of audio from studio recording to live concerts, to car audio.

but i don't believe silverblade cares that much about all this, so that is why i gave a simple answer instead of delving into the technical details.


and from wikipedia....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_reflex (under limitations)

"Because of the complex frequency dependent loading, ported enclosures generally result in poorer transient response at low frequencies than in well-designed sealed box systems. Whether or not the effects of this in a properly designed system are audible are debatable. A poorly designed bass reflex system, generally one that is tuned too high, can ring at the tuning frequency and create a 'booming' one-note quality to the bass frequencies."
 






Do you really believe everything you read from Wikipedia since ANYONE can write ANYTHING on there...Wiki is far from a credible source.

And if you were pretty knowledgeable about subwoofers and enclosure designs than a properly designed ported enclosure will have a broader and flatter frequency response than a sealed enclosure and can be just as transient.

I have a ported enclosure tuned to 40Hz and it plays down to 30Hz perfectly fine. Not a problem. Why is that you say since a ported enclosure has a steeper roll off?? Because it is custom designed for my vehicle.

You keep mentioning ported enclosures not suited for the subs that are put in there...NEVER anywhere in my post did I mention using prefab ported enclosures. I always design and build my own. Seems like you have a lot of experience with prefabs that suck balls but haven't really heard a nice properly designed and tuned ported enclosure
 






aznboi-

you are entitled to your opinion (and not anyone can edit wikipedia anymore btw) but i'll try to keep this short since fighting over the internet is f'ing pointless, but i do get pissed when some kid tells me i don't dick about sound. as i said in my last post it is possible to design a great sounded ported enclosure, but ON AVERAGE sealed gives you better sound quality, and since i doubt many people on here will spend that much effort making a perfect ported box i decided to give a simple answer so those interested didn't have to read paragraphs debating the ins and outs of sub enclosures.

and i did give you credit that a properly designed ported box can sound good, although with way more effort than it is worth for most people (pro audio companies spend millions on box designs to get it just perfect). and for the vast majority of users who will just buy a box, the sealed box would be a better choice if they wanted sound quality. the reason a ported box in an enclosed vehicle plays down to 30hz fine is because of the proximity effect in the vehicle, take your enclosure outside the vehicle and it will severely lack the lower end, because the bass has more area to escape instead of being trapped, which you should realize if you know so much about enclosures and audio.

and as for a broader frequency response you have no idea. a ported enclosure doesn't magically make your sub play a wider range, you can take my first hand knowledge or dismiss it, but i know for a fact ported enclosures have a steeper drop-off, i'd get your references but you would probably tell me "anyone can edit those"

and as for properly designed enclosures, i have heard many more than you i'm sure, hell i work with rock concert systems that pull over 100 amps of power at low volumes (that would be over 35,000 watts of power at full volume). so sorry if i don't always think in the car stereo mind all the time, i work with systems that would blow your car away and leave your ears bleeding if not properly controlled. keep thinking i'm an ignorant guy who doesn't know dick about sound but i'm in a different league buddy.

silverblade-
once again, sorry for hijacking your thread, but my vote would be for the jl's you'll enjoy them for years to come as i have enjoyed mine. good luck with whatever route you choose. one last piece of advice would be to get extra bulky wiring to ensure your amp can get the current it needs, i would get the 1/0 gauge wiring if you plan to regularly use your amps full potential, otherwise 2 gauge would be fine.
 






I apologize if I insulted you...how about we agree to disagree
 






I'm going against the grain here and saying the 13w7 ported and tuned LOW (like low-mid 20's), just because I can't fit one :)
I'd likely do the pair of w6's ported, tuned between 30-35hz and place a subsonic on them between 25 and 30 hz. They're damned fine drivers, and in a ported box, move enough air to keep even bass junkies happy.
 






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