another OHV Head Replacement thread

[Dono]

Well,

Both heads are leaking now. 251,000 kilometers on the motor.
I better get started.

Im starting to order stuff now.
2 X Heads – Ebay – Clearwater Cylinder Heads – 5 year warranty - $200.00 each + shipping ($510.00)
Rocker assy @ Push rods PART # F-40 KIT http://deltacam.com/ - $225.00 + shipping
Fuel stud rail bolts x 6 (I broke one previously) STUD M8X33M8X45 EXT http://www.trademotion.com (40.55)
Fel-Pro Head Gasket rebuild set HST9081PT1 http://www.rockauto.com/ $147.79 + $20.00 shipping ($167.79
Fel-Pro Head Bolts ES72794 http://www.rockauto.com/ $32.79 + $20.00 shipping (52.79)

Looks like I'm in to this for $996.00 + to do this right.

I don't think I need lifters, as there is no real noise coming from the motor. (Except on startup it can tick for a bit) Although they are cheap at $9.00 each from http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm (item 2244)

So, I'm kicking around doing a slight port matching job to the intake of the heads and lower intake manifold. It doesn't look hard, as I will stay away from the valve seat area. Hmm...What to do?

Another thread was done that is fantastic, and I want to make sure anyone doing their heads see's this.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289847&highlight=ohv+head+replace&page=3
Many thanks to the author. This should be a sticky as it has everything thats required to do your head replacement. It sounds like more and more heads/gaskets are failing.

Im also wondering if it might be easier to stop by an exhaust shop and have them remove (and reinstall lightly) my exhaust manifold bolts as I'm driving home for the tear down. This might save a ton of pain.

 

[jlsparky7]

Looks like youve done your research. Go for it.

 

[Abbondanza]

Well,

Both heads are leaking now. 251,000 kilometers on the motor.
I better get started.

Im starting to order stuff now.
2 X Heads – Ebay – Clearwater Cylinder Heads – 5 year warranty - $200.00 each + shipping ($510.00)
Rocker assy @ Push rods PART # F-40 KIT http://deltacam.com/ - $225.00 + shipping
Fuel stud rail bolts x 6 (I broke one previously) STUD M8X33M8X45 EXT http://www.trademotion.com (40.55)
Fel-Pro Head Gasket rebuild set HST9081PT1 http://www.rockauto.com/ $147.79 + $20.00 shipping ($167.79
Fel-Pro Head Bolts ES72794 http://www.rockauto.com/ $32.79 + $20.00 shipping (52.79)

Looks like I'm in to this for $996.00 + to do this right.

I don't think I need lifters, as there is no real noise coming from the motor. (Except on startup it can tick for a bit) Although they are cheap at $9.00 each from http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm (item 2244)

So, I'm kicking around doing a slight port matching job to the intake of the heads and lower intake manifold. It doesn't look hard, as I will stay away from the valve seat area. Hmm...What to do?

Another thread was done that is fantastic, and I want to make sure anyone doing their heads see's this.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289847&highlight=ohv+head+replace&page=3
Many thanks to the author. This should be a sticky as it has everything thats required to do your head replacement. It sounds like more and more heads/gaskets are failing.

Im also wondering if it might be easier to stop by an exhaust shop and have them remove (and reinstall lightly) my exhaust manifold bolts as I'm driving home for the tear down. This might save a ton of pain.

Hey Dono, I am ordering new heads, I was wondering: how did Clearwater Heads workout for you? Thanks!

 

[wood1]

Sounds like fun. I left the fuel rail attached to the intake and just flipped it and moved it to the side. It was easy, didn't have to unhook fuel lines etc. I did remove the A\C compressor which may also swing out of the way but I just deleted it. A/C didn't work anyway...

Oh, and I used Clearwater heads and no issues. There was a bit of surface rust on them which I cleaned up and installed them. That was a few months ago, everything is working great.

 

[Dono]

The heads worked out, although i ended up with one valve not sealing and had to pull a head. when you get them, take them to a machine shop and have them test the heads for valve seal. I think most vacuum test them. its quick to do, and might save you doing the job twice.

Dont use the Delta kit. The rockers are way to soft. I had to replace mine. Use Ford, or sealedpower. Get pushrods also. Rock Auto, if your getting your gaskets there anyway.

 

[Abbondanza]

The heads worked out, although i ended up with one valve not sealing and had to pull a head. when you get them, take them to a machine shop and have them test the heads for valve seal. I think most vacuum test them. its quick to do, and might save you doing the job twice.

Dont use the Delta kit. The rockers are way to soft. I had to replace mine. Use Ford, or sealedpower. Get pushrods also. Rock Auto, if your getting your gaskets there anyway.

One valve not sealing, pulling the head, and you consider that working out?! Wow..you are way more understanding than I would be! They should make sure that the heads are totally functional out the door, no?. Did they compensate you in any way for the trouble?

Also I wasn't planning on replacing my pushrods or rockers, this is costly enough...

 

[Dono]

Careful though, its a drug. I now have an M90 supercharger bolted to my fuel rail. Now, this one turned out to take some planning. Im still in the final stages of tuning, but its now a pretty quick truck.

 

[Abbondanza]

Careful though, its a drug. I now have an M90 supercharger bolted to my fuel rail. Now, this one turned out to take some planning. Im still in the final stages of tuning, but its now a pretty quick truck.

Ha, no, that's not me, just looking to extend the life of a truck that has been very reliable up to this point...

 

[Dono]

Well, I think there was a bit of the packing material stuck on one of the valve surfaces keeping a valve open slightly. The only way to ensure this type of thing doesnt happen is with any pre built head is to have them checked before install. That was my mistake. pulling the heads is pretty easy the second time.

Even if you go with new push rods, it will help. Theres quite a few miles on those original parts. You will see what i mean when you pull it apart and see the wear.

Clearwater talked about compensation, but it didnt happen. I did some minor port and polishing on round 2, so that definately took care of any warranty.

 

[Dono]

Id say clearwater heads with a quick vacuum test locally.
push rods, head bolts, and gaskets.

Did you find all torque specs?

As Wood1 said, you can move AC out of the way. I also removed alternator just to reduce swearing. It comes off in minutes.

 

[Abbondanza]

Id say clearwater heads with a quick vacuum test locally.
push rods, head bolts, and gaskets.

Did you find all torque specs?

As Wood1 said, you can move AC out of the way. I also removed alternator just to reduce swearing. It comes off in minutes.

Yes I have a thread on here as well with my progress: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357323

Yes new waterpump, thermostat, exhaust manifolds and Heads, Full gasket set...While I have the room, I am also replacing the AC Evap core and Accumulator/Drier (the evap tube was corroded by the Drier Bracket) so hopefully when she's back together I'll have AC this summer as well.