Anyone know 1980s ignition systems?

[ld50]

I have a 86 Honda civic as a run-around to save gas.
It ran like a dream originally, but once in a while would start shaking like a crack-***** and stall if you let the rpms drop.
After a while the crack-***** symptoms have become the norm, and I can't figure it out.
I removed the carb, tore it down, cleaned it and rebuit it to find it is doing the exact same thing, and the carb seems to be doing everything it should be doing (no vacuum leaks anywhere either)
When it runs good it purrs, but only when the rpms are up, let them fall and it shakes and dies

I suspect an ignition problem, it seems like it actually doesn't fire on all cylinders.
The spark plugs and wires are new, and it is nice and clean under the distributer cap
It doesn't have points, it has that electronic gizmo in the distributor.
Could that be dying?
Should I scrap the Honda?
Anyone know a website that might help?

I don't want to spend all kinds of money on it obviously.

 

[90ranajo]

Timing may be out of whack. Take a look at the distributor (not sure if its the same as domestic mechanical ones), the other thought would that the timing chain/belt is getting stretched out and throwing off the timing.

 

[ld50]

You know that is a good point, I still have my timing light from my old Datsun 510 days.
Still needs to idle for that, so maybe I should loosen the distributor and move it slightly to see if it will start idling.

thanks.

 

[90ranajo]

The timing chain/belt could have jumped a tooth. If the timing cover is easy to get to and remove, I'd pull it and see how much slack there is.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You have to determine if all 4 cylinders are getting power to the spark plugs. You could easily test this with a screwdriver or a high voltage light. It's possible that the ignition module is starting to fail. Your system uses a cap & rotor unlike the new systems which use a coil pack with cam & crank position sensors. How many miles does it have? This thread should be in the all other makes & models section. Elite members could move threads without the assistance of a moderator.

 

[ld50]

I moved the thread, I`m gunno go out and tinker now, thanks for all tips, I`ll let y`all know

 

[dogfriend]

I will just add one more thing to look for with carburated cars. When the carb gets really old, sometimes it will leak where the throttle shaft goes through the body of the carb. This will result in a vacuum leak. When you have a vacuum leak, it will idle and run like crap when you have high vacuum (throttle mostly closed) but won't affect it as much at low vacuum (throttle mostly open).

I hate carbs.

 

[ld50]

Well I think ruling out the carb was premature. Got my timing light on it and it looks perfect. I don't think its a vacuum problem at the linkage there, seems tight. It runs fine once you are rolling must be an idle issue with the carb I guess.
I dunno, maybe I should go rally car racing up some logging roads then scrap it!
Someone actually wants to buy it for what I paid for it, might take him up on it and wash my hands of it.

 

[cjones101812]

when you rebuilt your carb...where/how did you set your Mixture screw??

does is have the 3bbl carb?? those had a lot of problems.

did you get all the vacuum hoses routed correctly after the rebuild?? are all the vac hoses in good condition??

 

[ld50]

I left the screw alone when I rebuilt, although I did try adjusting it to get it to idle yesterday.
It is 2bbl
All hoses are back in place and look fine

When I said I rebuilt it, technically I only took the top half off to expose the float chamber and sprayed every nook and passageway with copius amounts of carb cleaner. -I took it off the engine for that of course.