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AWD to bw4406 or np205 opinions

johnny499

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 6, 2007
Messages
250
Reaction score
47
City, State
brooklyn park,mn
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Mountaineer 5.0 SAS
Callsign
W3JF
Hi guy's
I recently purchased a 98 mountaineer with a 5.0 and AWD. I want to convert it to a selectable transfer case. I am trying to decide between the bw4406 and the np205. Both have pro's and cons and I am trying to figure out which is the best choice.
The np205:
Is heavy
Only has 1.96:1 lo range
Would require custom drive shafts(I have made them before so not a problem)
Is very strong
Can be twin sticked(I always wanted to do one that way)
Has traditional yoke type drive shafts.
Easy to find.

The bw4406:
Has slip shaft output for rear drive shaft(maybe a problem once it is lifted SOA)
Not as strong
Can't be twin sticked.
Lighter
Complete bolt in option, very little fabrication.
Has 2.46:1 low range or there abouts.

This will be the first step in upgrading the mountaineer, I want to do a hp d44 SAS up front and a SOA in the rear on 33" tires and I want it to be durable. I have heard that slip shaft output housings are a problem on jeeps, but they usually have a shorter wheel base which makes for more extreme drive shaft angles and more slip joint length required. Any feed back, thoughts or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
 



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Well I made a decision on the transfer case. This weekend I got the drive shafts and paid for a BW4406 that I should be able to pick up Saturday. They are supposed to include the shifter assembly with it as well. I got the rear shaft from an expedition with standard suspension so it has the c/v joint instead of a single u-joint, this will be better when I do the SOA on the rear and SAS up front. I paid $210 for the three items, I need to get a conversion joint for the front shaft yet. Depending on the weather I might try putting it in this weekend.
I have read several of the conversion wright up's and it looks like the most time consuming part will be the shifter hole and boot installation.
I am excited to get this done and be rid of the AWD soccer mom crap!!
 






dont forget, you will either have to modify the front furl tank bracket, or get one from a 2000 and up
 






Thanks!
I did know that I would need to modify the front bracket, I hadn't read that one from a 2000+ would work. I will probably just modify this one anyway, I have lots of different tools to do so.
The whole process looks pretty straight forward and I have a backup vehicle if it takes longer than planned.
 






Well Saturday was a good day. I picked up the 4406 transfer case from the junk yard in the morning. They supplied everything except the 2 bolts that mount the shifter to the extension housing. So it was a great buy at $125. From there I went to my parents house and had the mountaineer on the hoist by 1:30. I put up in the air to slide the transfer case onto the jack.
20140503_135045_zpsl6ekip4g.jpg

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Here is the underside before deconstruction.
20140503_140313_zps3epztdoa.jpg

I cut off the 2 upper tabs on the case for clearance as suggested in other posts.
20140503_160938_zpsgha0cz1e.jpg

after a failed attempt to get the new transfer case in place I decided I needed to remove similar tabs from the passenger side of the case to clear the catalytic convertor.
20140503_183107_zpsnakggwv7.jpg

Here I have it all back together minus the shifter assembly, skid plate and front drive shaft by 7:30.
20140503_183056_zpsl31n8t49.jpg

I drained and refilled the transfer case with atf before it left the hoist.
It immediately felt better driving on the pavement and the slight hum is gone. I believe the c/v joint in the front drive shaft was going bad, I found it had a little rotational slop after I removed it.
 






Man you got a great deal on your parts! I just got my mounty 4406 swap done too, its a definite improvement
 






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