Brake caliper pin removal how?

[richardk]

OK. This is my first post so be gentle! I am sure that what I am asking for is probably simple for most people, unfortunately for me it's a bit of a nightmare!

Anyway, here's my problem. I wan't to replace the front discs and pads on my '98 explorer. I went out and bought new pads and discs and a Haynes manual. I thought this would be enough to get me started. How wrong I was! The Haynes manual guides you through all the steps except when it comes to removing the lower caliper pin. All it tells you to do is remove it but not how.

I really don't want to damage anything so any help with this would be appreciated. If anyone has a photograph of the procedure that would be even better.

Also, my explorer is left out on the driveway all the time so most of the nuts and bolts are in a bad way. Any helpful hints on how best to free rusted seized bolts?

I really would appreciate any help/advice anyone can offer.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Howard]

Hi and welcome.

The front callipers on the 98 model are held on by two small bolts that are at the back of the calliper, one top and one bottom. These go into the slide pins (which are covered by a rubber surround). There is then a bracket which is held onto the hub by two large bolts right up by the drive shaft (90ft/lbs). After the bracket is off the discs should almost fall off (might need help from a bfh). You may have retaining clips on the studs, which will need to come off. Hope that helps.

 

[richardk]

Hi Howard,

Thanks for the quick reply. The two bolts at the back of the calliper, do these unscrew or ar they prised out somehow? The reason I ask is that I was told they are removed fairly easily without unscrewing? Whether this is true or not, I have no idea! On my vehicle, using a socket, I cannot get them to budge, hence the second part of my query! I also noticed that these sliding pins (under the rubber surround) have no lubrication on them at all. Can these be lubricated or do I need to buy new ones?
The two large bolts holding the bracket to the hub are similarly stubborn and despite the use of various penetrating oils (liquid wrench) they also will not budge. Anything else I can try on them?

Cheers
Richard

 

[Howard]

Yes normally they just unbolt in the usual way. You do sometimes need a thin spanner to hold the slider rods. (they have a flat at the calliper end)The large ones can be very stubborn. I normally end up using a breaker bar, or even longer.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! The older first generation had hammered in slide pins. I'm not sure if your model has the same set up. Check # 27 in my list of useful threads: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696.
Here is a picture from Glacier991's photo gallery:

 

[richardk]

Thanks Howard and BrooklynBay for your replies.

BrooklynBay, my pins are the newer type, so looks like I will have my work cut out to get them off without destroying them!

Sorry to be a pain, but as to my other point, can I lube the pins myself and if so what with?

I really do appreciate all your help.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Howard]

They are supposed to be pre-lubricated for life. But I guess that any decent brake lube would do. (molyslip etc). Good luck.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you have a picture of these new pins? I'm curious to see what they look like.

 

[Howard]

I don't at the moment but brake job due soon so I will get the camera out when I do it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks! Maybe you could do a similar thread like the one on the 1st generation in the above link? Do you have auto or manual locking hubs?

 

[Howard]

Maybe I can. Without wanting to steal the thread. The hubs on the 2nd gen are fully engaged all the time. Just a splined drive shaft with cv joints.

 

[richardk]

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice.

I will let you know how I get on.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Explorerman2]

Update on brake disc replacement

I've just (today) done the job on my Explorer as the pads on one side were scoring the disc after 13000 miles (strange though that the other side looked almost new- I have the receipt form the previous owner for pads and discs(-rotors in USA speak). A couple of pointers.

On the '99 the pads are held in by a pair of 13mm bolts, no washers, top and bottom which engage into the corrugated rubber tube described in the posting. slightly stiff to get off but quick release with club hammer on socket extension (bang clockwise to release). In my case the job was harder because the new pads would not slide into the slightly spring loaded carrier. I had to sand/grind the ends with a sander, then copperslip them, before it was in. I retracted the twin pistons of the caliper with a G clamp.

Because I was removing the discs too, I had to remove the whole assembly and that's two 18mm bolts, top and bottom, no washer.The threaded section is in the assembly, the bolt goes through an unthreaded hole in the hub.There's another couple of bolts in the vicinity, just make sure you remove the right ones. With a torch you'll see which ones go into the assembly These were pretty accessible with a socket and ratchet but it took a long extension and a couple (only a couple) of bangs with a club hammer to loosen them (remember to bang clockwise as you look at the assembly to loosen. It would be very hard to do without a socket set and longish extension (although the 13mm bolts are accessible with a ring spanner)

Reassembly is a reversal but the discs will not seat firmly until the pistons are brought back up to the disc. I copperslipped the back of the disc, so it does not stick to the hub in the future (don't grease the braking surface but do clean the braking surface off first- use alcohol, methylated sprit, white spirit). The wheel holds it all together, then start the engine and press the brake pedal several times- lots of soft pedal for about 8 presses until the caliper reaches the pads and then they in turn reach the disc, firming it all up. Some brake fluid may have spilled out (unless you drained some out first) as the pistons were pushed back in, so there may be a puddle under the vehicle. Re-check the fluid level anyway.

It took me longer than it should, probably about 3.5 hours for both sides, but then I'm not quite as agile as I used to be!

Hope this helps

 

[richardk]

Many thanks Explorerman2.
I have been away visiting the in laws in North Hants so have not had a chance to look at the problem since my last post. Your description of the technique to complete the job will help a lot, so thanks very much for taking the time to post, it's very much appreciated.

The problem I have with my vehicle is that living by the sea nuts and bolts tend to get very rusty and difficult to remove. I hope to get stuck into the job next week so hopefully will complete it this time!

Cheers
Richard

 

[richardk]

Well, finally completed the job! Had to do the job on the driveway as my garage is chock full of woodworking tools, so no room there!

My discs were practically welded on and Howard's advice of using a BFH was spot on. They took a while to shift but eventually came off.

As mentioned before, I live by the sea, so most of the nuts/bolts were heavily seized up. I tried using a socket and breaker bar but they would not budge. I did a search on the net and came across a set of Irwin bolt removers. They have to be one of the single best tool purchases I have ever made. In less than ten minutes and with very little effort I had all the bolts removed without damage to the parts or my head!

Since I had the car on axle stands I gave some of the underside a good coat of underseal. All in all a good afternoons work.

Many thanks to everyone for all their help. It was really appreciated.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Explorerman2]

Pleased it worked out

I am pleased you fixed it Richard. My Explorer was not so tough to do, and I don't know about Aberdeen sea air, but it lived a while in Cornwall and now lives in Hastings so it's used to its share of sea air. My decades of experience as an amateur mechanic suggests that nearly all jobs take more brute force than any manual suggests. They always say remove the part as if it drops off! The strongest arm is when a rubber hammer is suggested. I have one, it's never removed anything!!
Club hammers are the kit to have! It sounds as the Irwins are good too...

 

[richardk]

The 4lb club hammer was my friend also Explorerman2! I took your advice re the copperslip, I don't intend going through all that trouble again. The Irwin bolt removers are basically sockets but with fluted internals that grip the corners of even rounded off bolts firmly, they work for removal only.

My next job, once I return from a trip to Farnborough for my sister-in-laws wedding next week, will be a service and fix my leaking front and rear diffs.

The fun never ends here!

 

[Howard]

If you are changing the oil in the rear dif don't forget the LSD additive. Fords do have it for about a fiver, but they may have to order it.

 

[richardk]

If you are changing the oil in the rear dif don't forget the LSD additive. Fords do have it for about a fiver, but they may have to order it.

Will remember, thanks. By the way, what grade of oil does the rear diff take? I know its not the normal 80w90 but not sure of the exact type to use.

 

[Howard]

Synthetic SAE 75W-140 gear oil. I did find some when I did mine but it is quite hard to get over here.