Brake Fluid

[pknopick]

While I was changing my oil today, I checked my brake fluid. I inspected the color and noticed that it was as dark (and almost as thick) as oil coming out of my engine... I'm no expert but I'm guessing that the color is from years of corrision and rust. I took the top off a spray bottle and removed 85% of all the fluid out of the reservior and replaced it with fresh DOT3. Does the coloration indicate a future problem? And how would I correct it if it is a problem?

 

['97 V8]

Well you didnt really do that all much. You need to bleed your brakes to get all that old fluid out.

 

[pknopick]

But my brake lines and calipers will be okay? I guess what I'm asking is the coloration indicate any damage to my braking system?

 

[Phager]

It doesn't neccissarily indicate damage, however your braking performance has got to be degraded if the fluid is as you describe. It would definitely be a good idea to flush you brake system, as old brake fluid generally has absorbed some water and if left in the system for an extended period of time it can cause the hard lines to rust from the inside out, as well as leading to sticking caliper pistons and the like.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, brake fluid is supposed to be changed once in a while, say every 1-2 years.

 

[pknopick]

I guess that settles it. I'll be bleeding the brake next weekend... only because it's supppose to rain all day tomorrow.

 

[JStrider]

mines in pretty poor shape... did my brakes a few weeks ago and the fluid coming out at the bottom was black...

had a 1qt bottle of brake fluid so flushed a quart out... was still not completely clear... need to get some time and more fluid and finish the job...

 

[pknopick]

How much fluid is in our systems... wait I can answer that with a Haynes manual. Anyone have any tips on how to do the job easier and better?

 

[JStrider]

if you look up the amount of fluid, lemme know... I'm curious...

I've seen some kits that apparently let one person bleed them... I dont know how well they work, I've always done it with 2 people... one working the pedal and the other the valve.

 

[foxy]

Mate, the thread you need is in "under the hood" "how to flush/change brake fluid" . this was done by 98/92EB Cheers

 

[CDW6212R]

It should take just under a quart, and don't forget the ABS system, it has fluid in it that doesn't bleed out. Don't allow any air to get into the upper lines, keep fluid in the master cylinder always.

If you start with very dirty fluid, bleed the brakes once till the fluid is close to clear, not clear. Drive tha car for many weeks, many miles, that should circulate the fluid in the ABS. Be sure to use the ABS every once in a while, hit the brakes occasionally. If the ABS never is used, the fluid remains stationary in the ABS module. Bleed the brakes again until the fluid comes out clear. Regards,

 

[Tony H]

Take the front tires off the car, Fully compress Both calipers as though you were putting new brake pads on. Put the Calipers back on the car as normal. Then totally drain the master Cylinder Reservoir of fluid.
Add new fluid to the Master...Fill it.

Go in the car and easily pump the brake pedal until Pedal gets hard again.

Refill the Master.

Go to rear passenger side and take a small hose that will fit snug over the bleeder valve and drop down into a small bottle with about 1" of Brake fluid ( the old stuff if you want) in it. Drop the Hose into the bottle making sure the end is in the fluid.

Loosen the bleeder, go in the car and slowly pump the pedal about 10 times.

Tighten The bleeder....refill the Master.

do same for rear drivers side... 10 pedal strokes.

Do front calipers the same...5 strokes will purge out what old stuff is left.

That's it.
Keeping the hose in the bottle acts as a check valve so you wont suck air into the system.

Fill Master Buy a 1 quart bottle

 

[DeRocha]

Take the front tires off the car, Fully compress Both calipers as though you were putting new brake pads on. Put the Calipers back on the car as normal. Then totally drain the master Cylinder Reservoir of fluid.
Add new fluid to the Master...Fill it...

OUCH! NEVER EVER DRAIN the master cylinder... doing so will most definitely trap air inside which will be a huge PITA to get out resulting a a spongy brake pedal.

I would recommend maxing out the fluid in the Brake cyclinder reservoir and then bleeding each brake in correct sequence.. Right Rear, left Rear, left front, right front. Each wheel should be bleed until the fluid runs clear, stop often to ensure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir...

 

[pknopick]

Wow... I wasn't expecting such great details and advice! Thank you all for your help and I'll be doing that this Saturday morning before I go partying at UGA that night. Thanks again!

 

[Tony H]

Do not drain the Master cylinder.. Just the entire Reservoir, as I said. Refill with new fluid as soon as you do that ...as I said. You'd be hard pressed to drain the Master anyway unless you pulled the hard lines off the side. YOu can empty the reservoir all te way down until the tinyiest bit of fluid is sitting in the two holes in the Master

 

[TerryS1980]

Who makes a good brake fluid flusher? I seen a link to it on here a couple weeks ago, but I can't find it now.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you mean the type of tool the dealership uses? Those would be expensive new, what would that be like used?

 

[TerryS1980]

I found what I was looking for the Motive brand bleeder. It retails for $70. I might just stick to a bleed bottle and have a friend help.

 

[CDW6212R]

Take the front tires off the car, Fully compress Both calipers as though you were putting new brake pads on. Put the Calipers back on the car as normal. Then totally drain the master Cylinder Reservoir of fluid.
Add new fluid to the Master...Fill it.

Go in the car and easily pump the brake pedal until Pedal gets hard again.

Refill the Master.

Go to rear passenger side and take a small hose that will fit snug over the bleeder valve and drop down into a small bottle with about 1" of Brake fluid ( the old stuff if you want) in it. Drop the Hose into the bottle making sure the end is in the fluid.

Loosen the bleeder, go in the car and slowly pump the pedal about 10 times.

Tighten The bleeder....refill the Master.

do same for rear drivers side... 10 pedal strokes.

Do front calipers the same...5 strokes will purge out what old stuff is left.

That's it.
Keeping the hose in the bottle acts as a check valve so you wont suck air into the system.

Fill Master Buy a 1 quart bottle

Bleeding brakes is a two man job(not counting the cute bleeder tools, I have one), open the bleed screw only when the brake pedal is pumped up, applied. Tighten the bleed screw before the brake pedal is released.

Air is sucked back in through the bleed screw around the threads, not through the main hole if full of fluid(hose). A bleed screw which does not allow air back in around the threads is not normal, don't count on it.

FYI, the later vehicles all have bladders(whatever) in the master cylinders, you cannot remove all of the fluid if you try to. Use a dedicated turkey baster to remove as much as possible, before starting brake work. Top off the MC then and often. Do not push/crush the caliper pistons back into the caliper on ABS vehicles, without the bleed screw open. Any fluid pushed back up the lines can find its way into the ABS module. Fouling an ABS module with dirty fluid is a very costly and needless mistake. Have two people available to bleed the brakes, and open the bleed screws when compressing the caliper pistons. Good luck,

 

[CDW6212R]

I found what I was looking for the Motive brand bleeder. It retails for $70. I might just stick to a bleed bottle and have a friend help.

Without seeing what you found, I bet it's similar to what I paid about $45 for two years ago. They can suck fluid out, but it is very slow, working by vacuum. For those to work, you really need bleed screws that will not pass air back in, around the threads. I prefer the pressure method to insure that no air gets into the lines etc.