Brake Job - Front Rotors and Pads

[RammaR]

My '96 4wd is in need of new front rotors and pads, it now has just over 105K miles on it. The last time I had the brakes done they said the current rotors had been turned down to the minimum thickness and would have to be replaced with the next set of pads. I think the left front rotor has actually warped a little because of a rub I'm getting so its definately time to replace them. To make a long story short, I've decided to do this replacement myself. I've done other work on it before, but this is my first attempt at the pads and rotors. (everyone's got to start sometime, right?) Anyway I just got a set of Powerslot rotors and pads and am planning on changing them out this weekend.

Besides the procedure in the Hayne's manual, does anyone have any other tips or advice that might make the job better? Like if you had to do it again, you would do what differently?

Oh, one last thing, the hayne's procedure mentions that I should syphon out 1/2 the brake fluid before starting. Any easy tips on this one?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Robert]

Originally posted by RammaR
. . .
Oh, one last thing, the hayne's procedure mentions that I should syphon out 1/2 the brake fluid before starting. Any easy tips on this one?

Thanks in advance.

Don't use your Wife's turkey baster, you will never hear the end of it. Get your own.

 

[Horizon200]

I did mine this past summer Front & Rear.
Most important make sure you replace the bearings while you're in there. What would I do differently? I'd make sure I had more Silver Soda's (Coors Lites) cooling in the fridge and I'd get a short squat stool to sit on!. It really was a breeze to change out.
As for the Brake Fluid....I just wrapped an old (but clean) towel around the open reservoir..then when you expand the Caliper, it just absorbs any fluid that may bubble over.
Good Luck.

 

[Jason_25]

He cant replace the bearings. 2nd gen's have sealed bearings that cost like 200 a side to replace.

 

[Horizon200]

Good Point....Mine is a 92

 

[RammaR]

Exaclty the types of pointers I'm looking for guys! Thanks. I had the driver's side bearing go out last summer, and had to replace the whole hub for like $300.00. Happened the week before 4th of July so I didn't have time shop around.

So if i just use a clean rag to soak up the brake fluid, then I should just re-fill it afterwards. Would this be a good time to change the fluid? Any idea how much is there? The Haynes probably says, so I'll check tonight. But if I pull out 1/2, would re-filling with new be of any benefit or just wasted $'s? (I might have to spend those $'s on a new turkey baster - hehe)


Thanks

 

[RammaR]

Another question, the Haynes manual says to replace the silencer clip (I think that is was its called) with a new one when changing pads. My new pads didn't come with the clips, so can I reuse the current ones or should I add them to my shopping list before I start tomorrow?

Thanks

 

[jimmiecakes]

Instead of forcing all that grungy rake fluid back ito the master cylinder, use a plastic pop bottle with a hole in the lid and a piece of aquarium tubing that will push over the bleeder screw and fit in the hole in the pop lid. Make sure the pop bottle is lower than the caliper - open the screw when you retract the pistons and the crap will go into the pop bottle.

DOT 3 is "hygroscopic" and should be changed regularly. the water that the brake fluid absorbs lowers it's boiling point. DOT 5 is not hygroscopic but it "hangs" air bubbles and any moisture that gets ito the system will not emulsify and therefore will cause rust from the inside out.

 

[USAFEXPLORER]

The only thing I have to add is that the Power Slot rotors I put on my '94 were great no problems, but the Power Slot Pads were terrible. REALLY, REALLY dusty on my rims and they didn't even last 8,000 miles. I am running oversized tires but I had better luck with cheaper pads from Checkers. Just my 2 cents.

 

[JDraper]

With that many miles on it, I'd change the fluid. However, I'd take it to someone like Monro or Midas and let them change the fluid. Do the brake job yourself, and then drive it to them. They will do a complete powerflush for about $20-30. Saves you the mess and the power flush is thorough.

 

[RammaR]

Are the caliper's welded on?

Got it on jack stands, wheels off, old pads off, and now trying to pull off the calipers so I can switch out the rotors.... but man are the bolts the hold the caliper in place stuck. Time to get a bigger wrench or hammer I guess.

Any tips on pulling those suckers off?

Thanks...

 

[RammaR]

Ok, finally got the caliper off, the new rotor on (looks much better), and am putting the new pads in.

Next question:
How difficult should it be to push the pistons back so the caliper will swing back down over the new pads? I don't have a big enough pair of channel locks to fit around the pistons, put just squeezing on them dosn't budge a bit. So just wanted to check how they should be to move before I get a new wrech or C-clamp.

Thanks!

 

[RammaR]

Had to go get a C-clamp, but that worked great. Everythings back together now without the squeeks and squeals. Thanks for all the tips. Oh, I figured out that only the '94 and older models have the "anti-rattle" clip the Haynes manual described. For my '96 changing out the pads couldn't have been much easier, it was the rotors that were hard to get to.

I'll try to post later how the rotors and pads hold up, if they are much better than stock, etc....

Thanks again for all the input.

 

[rjc]

Don't forget to change the front wheel bearings while you have it apart! rc