Brake shoe and diff fluids.....

[Itchybruno47]

LS Rear end.

If your that far in there it may not be a bad idea to replace the clutch packs since you have it that far down.

Side gears come out after the axle shafts and they are right there.

Don't forget the friction modifier when putting new fluid back in.

I was going to ask about a lsd friction modifier. As for replacing anything else it's disgusting here downpour and getting cold. I am just doing the minimum now but havi g gone this far I'm comfortable now ripping things apart come spring for a serious servicing.
If I'm replacing clutch packs am I risking having to set backlash etc and an other over my head sh*t? Although I always end up getting it done no matter how far "over my head" I feel I've gotten. I have a tendency to over think things and make them more difficult in my head than they actually ever end up being. Cheers
D

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done to get that far and have no busted knuckles etc.

Those axles look like they have had bad bearings on them before. I'll bet someone did the bearings before when they discovered leaking seals, and let the axles ride. The axles are strong steel, but I agree those look rough. I've reused axles many times with a little less wear than that. If you plan to go in more next Spring, I'd use those axles on new bearings and seals. For normal mileage, I think they will survive the Winter. The axles aren't grooved yet, just pitted a lot. When a groove begins, then they have to be replaced, the bearings die and the seals leak badly, horrible grinding sound is felt etc.

Clean the old grease out well, get a friction modifier, and very good synthetic 75-140 grease, 2.5 quarts. Renting the axle bearing pulling tools is not bad, they work well, Use a big socket to tap the new bearings and seals in. Tighten the rear parking brakes a bit too while there.

 

[shucker1]

If I'm replacing clutch packs am I risking having to set backlash etc and an other over my head sh*t?

If just doing clutch packs no.

As long as you go back with the factory type pack.

If you go with the carbon fiber set like I did there might be a little more "Monkeying Around" involved.

Setting back lash is not needed until you start changing the ring and pinion set or center carrier bearings

If you ever do the front seal, that too can get a little tense.

Don't worry, you can do it.

We are here if you run into trouble.

Like @CDW6212R said that pin retaining bolt can be a bugger. Especially if it breaks.

Might be nice if you get a new one as a just because thing.

 

[Itchybruno47]

If just doing clutch packs no.

As long as you go back with the factory type pack.

If you go with the carbon fiber set like I did there might be a little more "Monkeying Around" involved.

Setting back lash is not needed until you start changing the ring and pinion set or center carrier bearings

If you ever do the front seal, that too can get a little tense.

Don't worry, you can do it.

We are here if you run into trouble.

Like @CDW6212R said that pin retaining bolt can be a bugger. Especially if it breaks.

Might be nice if you get a new one as a just because thing.

My retaining pin bolt came out so easy I was shocked. It was literally just past hand tight. Makes me wonder what take th e previous owner did or didn't do. Although I most likely have found all his nonsense by now. I bought the thing not running and with brakes pads down to rivets on rotors 21st 169000 kms. I'm rolling up on 375000 kms now.

All that being said. Is there a torque spec for the pin retaining bolt? Is blue locktite necessary? Mine was so loose it worries me to think what kind of carnage it would sound like if it had come out on Its own while rolling down the road...it didn't even need to be "cracked" loose. I didn't have a socket head shallow enough to get a ratchet on it so I went to a wrench. I used the closed end and it moved while I was seating the wrench on it. Afer I saw it was free I just used fingers to back it the rest of the way out.....

Thanks again for everyone's input. Forums in general are awesome but I've never got as much and as fast a response as on the explorerforum!

Cheers
IB47

 

[shucker1]

Just a small dash of Blue Locktite would be good.

Make sure you clean to bolt itself and the carrier hole with brake cleaner to get all of the oil off first.

Don't use Red. Red only come apart with heat or a lot of force.

8-10 Ft Lbs torque comes to mind but I'm now 100% sure.

 

[Itchybruno47]

10 - 4 on the blue locktight.
One other thing I was wondering about. On the c clip end of the the axle shaft I see an o ring. Does this sit on the wheel side of the c clip just to add a bit of friction to the c clip fitting in the groove? I have not heard any mention of it and only discovered it once i pulled the axle out. I didn't see which side of the c clip it sits on....

 

[shucker1]

Outboard next to the side gear.

My shop manual also say 15-30 Ft\Lbs on the locking bolt.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, use a drop of blue and just get it snug like you know it's fragile enough to break. It is that, so you want it to be easy to remove. I started buying new ones to have on hand when I do those, who knows how many times they can be R&R'd before they get weaker and break. I've had to remove two broken pin bolts before, the first was a 4-5 hour job(drilling through the pin). So do what you can to never have one of those break on you, it's a sick feeling when it happens and you know what it's created.

 

[Itchybruno47]

Ditto, use a drop of blue and just get it snug like you know it's fragile enough to break. It is that, so you want it to be easy to remove. I started buying new ones to have on hand when I do those, who knows how many times they can be R&R'd before they get weaker and break. I've had to remove two broken pin bolts before, the first was a 4-5 hour job(drilling through the pin). So do what you can to never have one of those break on you, it's a sick feeling when it happens and you know what it's created.

I am at the:
"torque to spec diff cover bolts after they've sat for an hour for gasket to set up" stage now.

I've been very lucky so fa. Pin retainer bolt was cake.
No major carnage in playing inside the diff.
And now I've had No problem getting the diff fill plug out. This is what I used for that. See pic. Just upgraded my Bosch inch pounds gun to the dewalt foot pounds auto gun. Wish I had done so long ago now. This thing ha made many a tough jobs easy. I soaked the diff plug with a shot of bobcat penetrating fluid and then used the set up in pic to remove it.

Wife is heading out to pick up some groceries and a drill powered pump shortly.
Gonna replace brake shoes and then fill up the pumpkin tomorrow after gasket has cured. Hopefully this will solve the rubbing brake shoe issue!

 

[CDW6212R]

Go show off with that bad Dewalt. I had a 12v drill of theirs, and moved to the Craftsman C3 tools next. I've got the air pump in my work truck to do tires as needed. I love the impact gun and the buffer/polisher. I take the 19.2v battery to a JY when I need to hot wire a seat to move it forward etc. Tools are great.

To pump the fluid in, I like the simple $9 version that screws onto a quart bottle. I've misplaced mine, I was going to do my transfer case fluid yesterday, couldn't find it. That makes it so easy to pump fluid into the diff, a TC, the front diff etc.

The rear cover is easy to seal with Ultra RTV in a few minutes, just use a thin film and give it a couple of hours to dry. I tighten the bolts immediately, RTV is strong.

 

[Itchybruno47]

So much for being lucky this far.. I recommend buying new diff cover bolts now....looks like I'm going to be drilling and tapping next days off. Possibly sooner. Balls...

 

[Itchybruno47]

Go show off with that bad Dewalt.

Not trying to show off at all.. I started long ago with a Sears craftsman ratchet set and was akways hesitant to buy new tools because I didn't know what could do what. I just wanna share what used to make a job everyone including my self worries about...stripping the dreaded diff fill plug. This made it quick and easy and I just wanted to spread the word. Having a fancy took don't make ya good. It just makes things easier.

 

[CDW6212R]

Sorry to see that. Those are some strong bolts, I've never heard of one breaking. They do luck rusty, was it dry and rusty at the bolt shoulder, top weaken it there?

That bolt is very high there, you don't really have to repair that now if you don't want to, it's cold out etc. Good Ultra Black will seal that easily. At the bottom bolts, I'd want to fix those.

I tighten most bolts by hand after decades of practice. I prefer my short 3/8" ratchet for most smaller bolts like those for the trans, valve cover, that rear cover etc. I recall the sick feeling when I tightened a VC bolt that had some RTV down in the hole. It hydro-locked the threads, blew them out, too much torque also of course.

 

[CDW6212R]

Not trying to show off at all.. I started long ago with a Sears craftsman ratchet set and was akways hesitant to buy new tools because I didn't know what could do what. I just wanna share what used to make a job everyone including my self worries about...stripping the dreaded diff fill plug. This made it quick and easy and I just wanted to spread the word. Having a fancy took don't make ya good. It just makes things easier.

I know, I love tools. I have too many and not enough space, lots of my stuff is squirreled away and needs to be dug out and organized better.

 

[Itchybruno47]

The rear cover is easy to seal with Ultra RTV in a few minutes, just use a thin film and give it a couple of hours to dry. I tighten the bolts immediately, RTV is strong.

I'm a permatex guy my self. I just used the grey unopened grey I had on hand for now. Cover is coming backnff sooner than later to do bearings and out some better condition axle shafts in. I'm just doing leaking seal this round to get through the winter slop here and hopefully solve this one wheels rubbing brake nonsense.

 

[Itchybruno47]

Sorry to see that. Those are some strong bolts, I've never heard of one breaking. They do luck rusty, was it dry and rusty at the bolt shoulder, top weaken it there?

That bolt is very high there, you don't really have to repair that now if you don't want to, it's cold out etc. ...

It is what it is. I plan to run it for the winter if it doesn't leak. And no. All bolts looked good. Rust yes but no gouging or thin necks like you're talking. I was doing it by hand star pattern and not even on the final torque yet. I'm surprised it bailed out my self. My luck for saying do far so lucky!

 

[CDW6212R]

Say hi to Murphy, he's watching you. Night, and happy Thanksgiving.

 

[Itchybruno47]

Say hi to Murphy, he's watching you. Night, and happy Thanksgiving.

Ha! If I come across Murphy I'll get rid of him for all of us. Happy thanks back atcha!

 

[shucker1]

A set of left handed drill bits and that broken part may spin right out.

Yes they do make those.

Step up a little at a time.

Since it looks like your up there with lots of road salt it might be nice to chase tap your remaining holes with a flat bottom tap to make sure they are clean of junk.

A dash of oil \ light grease on the bolts helps things along.

 

[Itchybruno47]

A set of left handed drill bits and that broken part may spin right out.

Yes they do make those.

Step up a little at a time.

Since it looks like your up there with lots of road salt it might be nice to chase tap your remaining holes with a flat bottom tap to make sure they are clean of junk.

A dash of oil \ light grease on the bolts helps things along.

I have a lot of experience with drilling and retapping. I'm not too worried about it. I have some very small spiral reverse flute bits that win almost every time.

I blasted all the holes clean with brake cleaner and 150 psi air. There's nothing in them. It was a weak bolt straight up. Its all good.
Good suggestions with the flat tap though. Gonna look into a set of those for future. Every little bit to help things not go this way right!