CAC/Intercooler Removal & Cleaning | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

CAC/Intercooler Removal & Cleaning

MiWiAu

Active Member
Joined
August 23, 2016
Messages
69
Reaction score
1
City, State
Milwaukee
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Sport
Does anyone have any tips or a write-up on removing the CAC for cleaning? I'm in the process of installing an OCC, and I've stalled out trying to remove the intercooler. I have all the fasteners and hose connections removed, but I can't seem to persuade it out.

I still have the fan shroud installed. Does this have to come off, or is it possible to somehow remove it from the front? Any way of cleaning the CAC with it still installed in the vehicle?? I'm really hoping I don't have to disconnect and remove the entire radiator to get out the CAC.

Thanks!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Nevermind. ;)

I just left it in the vehicle. It's drying out now...
 












CAC, if I pulled out the right one, is it not the tube that runs parallel with the intake tubing?
It's the tube that has both electronic blow off valvles connected to it?

refer to diagram #12
http://www.eastgatefordpartscanada....as-engine/cooling-system-cat/intercooler-scat

GT, the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is in box #1 in your link. It looks like a small radiator and cools the intake air from the compressor/cool side of the turbos before entering the throttle body. It sits directly on top of the radiator in the front of the vehicle.

It's a huge pain to remove completely (requires complete removal of the radiator according to my service manual), so I wound up leaving it in the vehicle when I cleaned it.
 






GT, the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is in box #1 in your link. It looks like a small radiator and cools the intake air from the compressor/cool side of the turbos before entering the throttle body. It sits directly on top of the radiator in the front of the vehicle.

It's a huge pain to remove completely (requires complete removal of the radiator according to my service manual), so I wound up leaving it in the vehicle when I cleaned it.

Ah, the "intercooler" aka CAC.
I though the issue was the tubing that connects to the intercooler and that was easily removeable.
 






Ah, the "intercooler" aka CAC.
I though the issue was the tubing that connects to the intercooler and that was easily removeable.

You got it! :) I should have said "intercooler" to clarify, but you connected the dots, LOL. I also cleaned the intake and charge pipe plumbing when I did my OCC install, just to ensure I was staring over from a relatively clean system, and I already had most of it disassembled to clean the CAC/intercooler. ;)
 






You got it! :) I should have said "intercooler" to clarify, but you connected the dots, LOL. I also cleaned the intake and charge pipe plumbing when I did my OCC install, just to ensure I was staring over from a relatively clean system, and I already had most of it disassembled to clean the CAC/intercooler. ;)
Which OCC did you go with?
I ordered the JLT (not my first preference), but being under warranty I needed a bolt-on that I can remove when going in for service.

If you like, come join the coversation over at the below link, as I feel we need more attention to OCCs, as carbon build up on our vehicles is a problem that needs addressing.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...cc-oil-catch-can-on-their-sport.402332/page-2
 






Which OCC did you go with?
I ordered the JLT (not my first preference), but being under warranty I needed a bolt-on that I can remove when going in for service.

If you like, come join the coversation over at the below link, as I feel we need more attention to OCCs, as carbon build up on our vehicles is a problem that needs addressing.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...cc-oil-catch-can-on-their-sport.402332/page-2

I went with the RX Monster Can from teamrxp.com (I did a write-up here: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6716.0.html)

I'll come check out your other thread. Unfortunately, carbon build-up has a lot to do with direct injection architecture. From what I can see, the OCC only contributes to reduced carbon build-up caused by PCV contaminants and doesn't address the underlying issue of no fuel passing over the back side of the valves. That said, I figured I'd still spend the $$ on an OCC to reduce contaminants as much as possible.
 






My brand new 17 Sport is parked until my Tracys Lewis monster OCC kit arrives. Im trying to keep the system as clean as possible before installing the system. It's a bit frustrating not being able to drive my new car but better off in the long run I think.
 






My brand new 17 Sport is parked until my Tracys Lewis monster OCC kit arrives. Im trying to keep the system as clean as possible before installing the system. It's a bit frustrating not being able to drive my new car but better off in the long run I think.

It would be really interesting when you get to 60k miles (after PT warranty) to pull the intake and see what the valves look like. The OCC isn't a cure all, but I'm sure it will help. Good for you for trying to stay ahead of things. :)
 






MiWiAu, how did you tie in the factory line on the front valve cover with the EGR sensor into your OCC system?
 






MiWiAu, how did you tie in the factory line on the front valve cover with the EGR sensor into your OCC system?

Good question. My 2013 didn't have a sensor in the clean side hose from the front valve cover to the charge pipe. I do remember seeing another post on this though. I'll see if I can find it, and I'll report back.
 












Thank you!! So pulling from only one turbo pipe is still sufficient? I will be installing the Monster OCC in the drivers side front fenderwell area. It's a bit tighter fit in that area on the '16 & '17 models due to the larger fog light housing.
 






Thank you!! So pulling from only one turbo pipe is still sufficient? I will be installing the Monster OCC in the drivers side front fenderwell area. It's a bit tighter fit in that area on the '16 & '17 models due to the larger fog light housing.

I'm not an expert, but conceptually, from all the reading I've done, it sounds like one turbo pipe can provide sufficient vacuum to draw flow from the dirty side. I think with two turbo pipe connections you are improving the efficiency of the system under boost. By how much, I'm not sure.

From where are you planning to pull your charge pipe vacuum? In case you decide to drill/tap your turbo pipe(s) to add a port, past comments suggested drilling as close to the turbo as you can to generate the most vacuum. The idea being as you move closer to the airbox, you are moving closer to ATM pressure, thus less vacuum is generated.

I did a write-up linked in post #8 above, in case you didn't see it (though, I did the VTA mod to avoid drilling my charge pipes). There was quite a bit of space in front of the left fender on my '13, so if the fog light is the only thing different, I imagine you'll sill have room.
 






Mr. Lewis just returned my call and answered my questions. I was wondering if leaving the OEM line alone and installing the CSS to the airbox would affect the flow on that sensor and trigger a CEL and apparently that does happen in 50% of the installations. Their solution was to remove the sensor from the OEM line and put it into a short piece of 3/8" hose. This hose gets installed with a "T" fitting (1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8") into the line from the rear valve cover to the center port of the can. I'm going to check with Ford parts and price out a new hose. If it's reasonable I'm thinking about removing the sensor fitting from the OEM hose and installing it into the OCC dirty side hose without having to use the aftermarket "T" fitting as that might look cleaner.
 






Back
Top